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Diamond Rolex Watches

Rolex is a world-class gem-setter, and they’ve made a wide variety of diamond Rolex watches to prove it.

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Diamond Rolex watches come in all sorts of variations, from a subtle dash of diamond hour markers to glistening diamond-set bezels to extravagant full diamond pavé models.

History and Evolution of Diamond Rolex Watches

Rolex has been putting diamonds on its watches for almost as long as it has been in business. There are plenty of vintage diamond-set Rolex cocktail watches in the market that illustrate that point. By the mid-20th Century, Rolex began offering classic watches like the Datejust and Day-Date President with diamond embellishments, and precious gems on select sports watches like the Daytona, GMT-Master, Submariner, and Yacht-Master eventually joined the line-up.

Today, Rolex has an entire department dedicated to sourcing and setting precious stones. Rolex utilizes only natural precious stones, including diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, to decorate its watches. Each gemstone undergoes a thorough examination by the in-house gemmology laboratory, ensuring strict compliance with the brand’s defined specifications.

Rolex adheres to the guidelines established by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), and Rolex only selects the finest diamonds available. In short, not only are Rolex diamonds Internally Flawless (IF) but they’re also among the most colorless available.

For its diamond watches, Rolex uses brilliant cut, 8/8 cut, baguette cut, trapeze cut, asymmetric, and triangular stones. Furthermore, the master gem-setters at Rolex use a variety of setting techniques including bead setting, channel setting, bezel setting, and prong or claw setting.

What is a Rolex Serti Dial?

When talking about diamond Rolex watches, you’ll often come across the term Serti Dials to describe gem-set dials. Serti is short for the French word “sertissage,” which means gem-setting. Technically all Rolex dials with precious gems could be called a Serti dial, however, it’s most commonly used in watch collecting circles to refer to neo-vintage Rolex sports models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Yacht-Master with diamond, ruby, emerald, or sapphire hour markers.

Learn more:
A Complete Guide to Every Special Rolex Dial Ever Produced
A Primer on Watch Hour Markers

Rolex Diamond Watch Models and Reference Numbers

If a Rolex watch is available with the choice of a gem-set bezel, the gem-set bezel version will have a different reference number than the non-gem-set bezel version. On the other hand, a Rolex watch with a diamond dial does not necessarily have a different reference number than a non-diamond dial version.

Some gem-set Rolex watches will have a series of letters in their reference numbers that denote what type of precious gems it has. Here’s an explanation of what those letters stand for.

Rolex Gem-Set Reference Number Letter Abbreviations

  • TBR = Trapeze-cut diamonds
  • RBR = Round-cut diamonds
  • TEM = Trapeze-cut emeralds
  • TRU = Trapeze-cut rubies
  • EMBR = Emeralds and diamonds
  • EMSA = Emeralds and sapphires
  • SABR = Sapphires and diamonds
  • SARU = Sapphires and rubies
  • SANR – Black sapphires
  • SAFUBL = Fucshia and blue sapphires
  • SAJOR = Yellow and orange sapphires
  • SABLV – Blue and green sapphires
  • SACO = Cognac-colored sapphires
  • RBOW = Rainbow-colored sapphires
  • SATS = Sapphires and tsavorites

Diamond Day-Date Watches

The Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956, is recognized as Rolex’s most esteemed dress watch. True to its name, this timepiece is recognized for its duo of calendar windows on the dial, indicating both the day of the week and the date of the month.

Accompanying the Day-Date’s debut was the creation of a new bracelet by Rolex, known as the President. This iconic bracelet’s name is partly responsible for the often-used Rolex President and Rolex Presidential nicknames. Moreover, the watch also earned its “President” nickname due to its frequent appearance on the wrists of history’s most influential individuals, including various American presidents.

The Day-Date collection offers plenty of variations with diamond-set bezels, as well as diamond dials and in some cases, diamond-set bracelets. While the Day-Date 36 is certainly unisex, both Day-Date sizes are popular choices as men’s Rolex diamond models. Note that Rolex diamond bezels most often have round diamonds, but trapeze-cut diamonds are offered on a couple models. The reference numbers of current production diamond Day-Date watches are as follows.

Rolex Diamond Day-Date References

ReferenceCaseBezelDialBracelet
Day-Date 36
128348RBR

Yellow Gold
DiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President w/ or
w/out Diamonds
Day-Date 36
128349RBR
36mm
White Gold
DiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President w/ or
w/out Diamonds
Day-Date 36
128345RBR
36mm
Everose Gold
DiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President w/ or
w/out Diamonds
Day-Date 36
128396TBR
36mm
Platinum
DiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Day-Date 40
228348RBR
40mm
Yellow Gold
DiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Day-Date 40
228398TBR
Yellow GoldDiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Day-Date 40
228349RBR
White GoldDiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Day-Date 40
228345RBR
Everose GoldDiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Day-Date 40
228396TBR
PlatinumDiamondW/ or w/out
Diamonds
President
Modern Rolex Day-Date references with diamond-set bezels

Diamond Datejust Watches

The Datejust is Rolex’s flagship watch model and is often regarded as the most emblematic of the brand. The Datejust combines a water-resistant Oyster case, a Perpetual automatic movement, and a date window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial.

Rolex released the Datejust in 1945 to celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary and paired it with a new bracelet called the Jubilee. In 1957, the Lady-Datejust model joined the lineup as a smaller version made specifically for women. Early in the Datejust’s history, Rolex added a bubble-like magnification lens over the date window called the Cyclops.

Most Rolex Datejust watches come with the option of a diamond dial and some even offer the choice of a diamond-set bezel. It’s important to note that Rolex does not currently offer the Datejust 41 with a diamond bezel. The reference numbers of current production diamond Datejust watches are as follows.

Rolex Diamond Datejust References

ReferenceCaseBezelBracelet
Datejust 36
126284RBR
SteelWhite gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 36
126283RBR
Steel &
Yellow gold
Yellow gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 36
126281RBR
Steel &
Everose gold
Everose gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 31
278384RBR
SteelWhite gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 31
278383RBR
Steel &
Yellow gold
Yellow gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 31
278381RBR
Steel &
Everose gold
Everose gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Datejust 31
278288RBR
Yellow goldYellow gold
with diamonds
President
Datejust 31
278289RBR
White goldWhite gold
with diamonds
President
Datejust 31
278285RBR
Everose goldEverose gold
with diamonds
President
Lady-Datejust 28
279384RBR
SteelWhite gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Lady-Datejust 28
279383RBR
Steel &
Yellow gold
Yellow gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Lady-Datejust 28
279381RBR
Steel &
Everose gold
Everose gold
with diamonds
Oyster or
Jubilee
Lady-Datejust 28
279138RBR
Yellow goldYellow gold
with diamonds
Jubilee or
President
Lady-Datejust 28
279458RBR
Yellow gold
with diamonds
Yellow gold
with diamonds
Diamond-set
President
Lady-Datejust 28
279139RBR
White goldWhite gold
with diamonds
President
Lady-Datejust 28
279459RBR
White gold
with diamonds
White gold
with diamonds
Diamond-set
President
Lady-Datejust 28
279135RBR
Everose goldEverose gold
with diamonds
Jubilee or
President
Modern Rolex Datejust references with diamond-set bezels

Diamond Pearlmaster Watches

Now discontinued, the Pearlmaster was Rolex’s line of jewelry watches for women, introduced in 1992. Exclusively fashioned in precious metals like 18k yellow, white and Everose gold or 950 platinum, Rolex Pearlmaster watches almost always feature diamonds. Diamond embellishments can range from a dozen gems set into the bezel to entirely diamond-paved Pearlmaster models.

The watch takes its name from the Pearlmaster bracelet, which is a five-piece bracelet with curvy links that was designed especially for this collection. While the dials of the watches include the “DATEJUST” name (since there’s a date window at 3 o’clock) they are categorized as Pearlmaster watches because of their special bracelets.

Pearlmaster watches were originally available with 29mm or 34mm cases, however, in 2015, Rolex discontinued the smallest version and offered a larger 39mm option. Thanks to precious metal cases and bracelets combined with diamond settings, Pearlmaster models were some of the most expensive Rolex watches in the brand’s lineup. Below is a selection of Rolex diamond Pearlmaster references, all of which have now been discontinued.

Rolex Diamond Pearlmaster References

ReferenceCaseBezelDialBracelet
8628539mm
Everose Gold
DiamondDiamond Indices
or Diamond Pavé
Pearlmaster w/ or
w/out diamonds
8628939mm
White Gold
DiamondDiamond Indices
or Diamond Pavé
Pearlmaster w/ or
w/out diamonds
86409RBR39mm
White Gold
Diamond Pavé
DiamondDiamond PavéDiamond Pavé
Pearlmaster
86405RBR39mm
Everose Gold
Diamond Pavé
DiamondDiamond PavéDiamond Pavé
Pearlmaster
86348SAJOR39mm
Yellow Gold
Orange-Yellow
Gradient Sapphires
Diamond Indices
or Diamond Pavé
Pearlmaster w/ or
w/out diamonds
86348SABLV39mm
Yellow Gold
Blue-Green
Gradient Sapphires
Diamond Indices
or Diamond Pavé
Pearlmaster w/ or
w/out diamonds
86349SAFUBL39mm
White Gold
Fuchsia-Blue
Gradient Sapphires
Diamond Indices
or Diamond Pavé
Pearlmaster w/ or
w/out diamonds

Off-Catalog Rolex Diamond Watch Models

In addition to its regular production watches, Rolex also makes lavish gem-set watches (often sports watch models like the Daytona, GMT-Master, Submariner, and Yacht-Master) that belong to a so-called secret catalog. These off-catalog Rolex watches embellished with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires are highly exclusive, ultra-rare, and exceedingly expensive — all of which make them super collectible too. Produced in very low numbers, only the most important Rolex clients are given the opportunity to purchase these special or secret-release gem-set Rolex watches.

Below is a selection of off-catalog Rolex watch references, including current and discontinued models.

Off-Catalog Rolex References with Diamonds and Other Precious Gemstones

Model/
Reference
CaseBezelDial
Daytona
126576TBR
PlatinumDiamondsIce blue or
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
126548TBR
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsDiamond Pavé
Daytona
126598TRU
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
RubiesDiamond Pavé
Daytona
126549TBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsDiamond Pavé
Daytona
126599TRU
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
RubiesRuby Hour Markers
Daytona
116576TBR
PlatinumDiamondsIce blue or
Diamond Pavé
Daytona “Rainbow”
116595RBOW
Everose Gold
w/ Diamonds
Rainbow-Colored
Sapphires
Black with Colored
Sapphires or
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
“Eye of the Tiger”
116588TBR
Yellow GoldDiamondsDiamond and Black Laquer
Tiger Stripe Pattern
Daytona
“Eye of the Tiger”
116598TBR
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsDiamond and Black Laquer
Tiger Stripe Pattern
Daytona “Rainbow”
116598RBOW
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Rainbow-Colored
Sapphires
Black with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona
116568BR
Yellow GoldDiamondsVarious with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona
116578SACO
Yellow GoldCognac-Colored
Sapphires
MOP with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona
116588SACO
Yellow GoldCognac-Colored
Sapphires
Black with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona “Leopard”
116598SACO
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Cognac-Colored
Sapphires
Leopard Print with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona
116598SARO
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Pink SapphiresDiamond Pavé
Daytona “Rainbow”
116599RBOW
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Rainbow-Colored
Sapphires
Black with Diamonds
Daytona
116599RU
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Diamonds
Rubies
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
116599RBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsDiamond Pavé
Daytona
116599SA
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Diamonds
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
116589TBR
White GoldDiamondsDiamond and Black Laquer
Tiger Stripe Pattern
Daytona
11659912SA
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsDiamond Pavé
Daytona
116589SACO
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Cognac-Colored
Sapphires
MOP with
Diamond Indexes
Daytona
116589SACI
White GoldSky-Blue
Sapphires
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
116589SALV
White GoldPurple
Sapphires
Diamond Pavé
or Rubellite Stone Dial
Daytona
116589BR
White GoldDiamondDiamond Indexes
or Diamond Pavé
Daytona
116589RBR
White GoldDiamondDiamond Indexes
or Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16588SAFU
Yellow GoldPink SapphiresVarious including
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16598EM
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
EmeraldsVarious including
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16599SAPH
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
SapphiresDiamond Pavé
Daytona
16589SACI
White GoldSky-Blue
Sapphires
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16589BRIL
White GoldDiamondsVarious including
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16589SAPH 
White GoldSapphiresVarious including
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16589RUBI 
White GoldRubiesVarious including
Diamond Pavé
Daytona
16599RUBI
White GoldRubiesDiamond Pavé
Daytona
16599SA
White GoldSapphiresDiamond Pavé
Daytona
16559SACO
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Cognac-Colored
Sapphires
MOP with
Diamond Indexes
GMT-Master II
126879EMSA
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Left-Handed
Emeralds
Black Sapphires
Diamonds
Malachite
GMT-Master II
126755SARU
Everose Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Rubies
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116748SARU
Yellow GoldSapphires
Rubies
Diamonds
Black
GMT-Master II
116748SANR
Yellow GoldBlack Sapphires
Diamonds
Black
GMT-Master II
116748SA
Yellow GoldSapphires
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116758SANR
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Black Sapphires
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116758SA
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116758SARU
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Rubies
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II “Ice”
116769TBR
White Gold
Full Diamond Pavé
DiamondFull Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116759SARU
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Rubies
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116759SANR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Black Sapphires
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
GMT-Master II
116749SABLNR
White GoldBlue & Black
Sapphires
Diamonds
Black
Submariner
116659SABR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Sapphires
Diamonds
Blue or
Diamond Pavé with
Sapphire Indexes
Submariner
116649EMBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Emeralds
Diamonds
Black with Emerald Indexes or
Diamond Pavé with
Emerald Indexes
Yacht-Master 42
226679TBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsBlack or
Diamond Pavé
Yacht-Master 40
“Cotton Candy”
126679SABR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Blue and Pink
Sapphires
Diamonds
Black or
Diamond Pavé
Yacht-Master 40 “Candy Crush”
116695SATS
Everose GoldMulticolor Sapphires,
Diamond
Black or
Diamond Pavé
Sky-Dweller
326959TBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsMeteorite with Diamond Baguettes
Sky-Dweller
326259TBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsMeteorite with Diamond Baguettes
Day-Date 40
228396TEM
PlatinumEmeraldDiamond Pavé with
Emerald Indexes
Day-Date 40
228398TRU
Yellow GoldRubiesDiamond Pavé with
Ruby Indexes
Day-Date 36
128238
Yellow GoldFlutedMalachite with Diamond Hours
Day-Date 36
128239
White GoldFlutedLapis Lazuli with Diamond Hours
Day-Date 36
128158RBR
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsCoral-Colored Enamel
Diamond Pavé
Day-Date 36
128159RBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsTurquoise-Colored Enamel
Diamond Pavé
Day-Date 36
128155RBR
Everose Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsBurgundy-Colored Enamel
Diamond Pavé
Day-Date 36
128158TBR
Yellow Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsTurquoise Stone with Pink Sapphire Baguettes
Day-Date 36
128159TBR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsSodalite with Emerald Baguettes
Day-Date 36
128155TBR
Everose Gold
w/ Diamonds
DiamondsBloodstone with Ruby Baguettes
Datejust
116199SANR
White Gold
w/ Diamonds
Black SapphiresDiamond and
Black Zebra Pattern
Datejust
116185BBR
Everose GoldDiamondsDiamond and
Black Zebra Pattern
Off-catalog gem-set Rolex references

Grey Market Diamond Rolex Watches

Due to the rarity and high price of many gem-set diamond Rolex watches, the grey market is often the only viable way to source them, especially off-catalog pieces. That’s one of the main benefits of shopping from a grey market dealer — the accessibility of hard-to-find or discontinued references.

Furthermore, you can sometimes find diamond Rolexes at better prices on the secondary market. Not always, as some variants are highly collectible, therefore, exceedingly expensive, but there are still a few deals to be made with gem-set models.

Factory Rolex Diamond Watches vs. Aftermarket

One thing to note when shopping for a gem-set Rolex is whether it is a factory watch or an aftermarket one. Factory diamond Rolex watches are exactly what it sounds like — watches that have all the same components as they did when they left the Rolex factory. All original parts, that are genuine to the reference.

On the other hand, aftermarket gem-set Rolex watches are customized with stones and are much less valuable than factory ones. In fact, adding stones to Rolex watches will almost always decrease the value of the watch. This is why it’s imperative to purchase a diamond Rolex from a source you trust so as not to get tricked into buying a custom piece when you think you’re buying an original.

Learn more: How To Spot A Fake Rolex: The Ultimate Guide

Notable Owners of Diamond Rolex Watches

Some of the world’s most famous celebrity watch collectors, such as Mark Wahlberg, Maluma, John Mayer, Cristiano Ronaldo, Neymar Jr, Drake, LeBron James, and others are often seen wearing ultra-rare diamond Rolex watches.

Commonly Asked Questions

Does Rolex Sell Watches with Diamonds?

Yes, Rolex does sell plenty of watches with diamonds. You can find Rolex watches with diamonds on the dial, bezel, case, bracelet, or all of the above. Aside from diamonds, Rolex also sells other precious gem-set watches including ones with rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.

Are Diamonds on Rolex Real?

Yes, a genuine gem-set Rolex watch only includes real diamonds on it. In fact, Rolex has an entire department dedicated to sourcing the best diamonds for its watches. The company only uses Internally Flawless (IF) colorless diamonds on its watches.

How Much is a Presidential Diamond Rolex?

A Presidential Diamond Rolex watch starts at around $38,000 for a Day-Date 36 with a diamond dial and $43,000 for a Day-Date 40 with a diamond dial. A Rolex President with a diamond bezel will cost more, starting at $49,800 for a Day-Date 36 with a diamond bezel and $55,700 for a Day-Date 40 with a diamond bezel. However, you can find pre-owned Presidential diamond Rolex watches for much less on the secondary market, starting at around $17,000.

Learn More: How Much Does a Rolex Day-Date Cost?

Do Men Wear Rolex Watches with Diamonds?

Plenty of men wear Rolex watches with diamonds. Diamond Rolex watches for men are becoming increasingly popular in today’s market and are some of the most collectible Rolex watches ever made. Rolex produces a secret catalog of gem-set men’s watches, which includes sports models such as the GMT-Master, Daytona, Submariner, and other men’s models.