Chronographs, once considered one of the most difficult complications to create, are now ubiquitous in the landscape of luxury watches. Fitting an entire mechanical stopwatch function in a wristwatch movement is no small feat, although we take it for granted now. Chronographs often cost extra to service due to the increased complexity and number of parts. And many owners of expensive chronographs even admit to almost never using the chronograph function. But that hasn’t put a damper on watch collectors’ continued enthusiasm for chronographs. Here’s our list of eight of the best chronograph watches, some new and some discontinued, to consider in 2024.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback
For many modern watch enthusiasts, an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback is the ultimate chronograph. Datographs are currently available with a power reserve complication (the popular “Datograph Up/Down” model) or even with a perpetual calendar and tourbillon. But to me, the two chronograph registers and big date function are already enough.
The discontinued “plain” Datograph Flyback, ref. 403.032 in yellow gold and ref. 403.035 in platinum, is everything I want in a luxury chronograph. Supposedly they also made 25 examples in rose gold, but those rarely come up for sale. Lange’s finishing is second to none, and the flyback chronograph function enables the chronograph to be restarted even when it’s running.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback Specs
Model | Datograph |
Reference | 403.032 (Yellow gold) 403.035 (Platinum) |
Case Material | Yellow Gold or Platinum |
Case Diameter | 39 |
Case Thickness | 13mm |
Movement | L951.1 (Manual-wind, 5 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 36 hours |
Bracelet/Strap | Alligator strap |
Water Resistance | 30m |
Market Price (Jan. 2024) | $70,000 (Yellow gold) $85,000 (Platinum) |
Patek Philippe 5170p
It feels weird to say a watch that sells for $110,000 is “underrated,” but the Patek 5170p arguably is. Well, at least if you compare it to the prices of other popular platinum Patek Philippe chronographs. The one-generation-older 5070p, powered by a Lemania-based (but beloved) movement, will cost you roughly twice as much!
For my money, I’ll take the in-house Patek movement and slightly smaller case (39.4mm) of the 5170 over the 5070. Ref. 5170p in particular, with its platinum case and baguette diamond hour markers, is exquisite. To me, the 5170 is like a Porsche 996–for years, collectors have largely overlooked them in favor of both newer and older ones for some reason. But they’ll have their day. When I look at this watch I certainly don’t see it as a “less desirable version” of anything.
Model Name | Chronograph (Part of the Complications collection) |
Model Number | 5170p |
Case Diameter | 39.4mm |
Case Thickness | 10.8mm |
Movement | 29-535 PS (Manual-wind, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 65 hours |
Water Resistance | 30 meters |
Caseback | Exhibition caseback |
Dial | Blue with diamond baguette hour markers |
Bracelet/Strap | Alligator strap with folding clasp |
Market Price (2024) | ~$110,000 |
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT “Sketch”
As a famous fashion and jewelry brand, Bulgari has worked hard to make their timepieces more than just “fashion watches.” Bulgari has been making a name for themselves in the watch world in a big way since being acquired by LVMH in 2011. Their Octo line–the incredibly thin Octo Finissimo in particular–has gained serious attention from collectors. After setting various world records relating to thinness (thinnest tourbillon watch, thinnest minute repeater etc.) Bulgari can’t be denied as a serious top-tier player in the luxury watch industry.
Fortunately for collectors, Bulgari watch prices on the secondhand market remain very competitive relative to other brands; they can often be found at deep discounts. One exception is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph 10th Anniversary Edition, celebrating 10 years of the modern Octo line. The bold sketched text represents Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s original sketch of the Octo. The look of the dial is unlike anything else on the market.
As of early 2024, you’ll have to pay just over $20,000 to snag one of the 200 Octo “Sketch” chronographs secondhand. The 10th Anniversary edition can sell for a 40% premium relative to the already-popular standard titanium Octo Finissimo Chronograph! Impressively, the watch even includes a GMT function while managing to maintain a case height under 7mm. It’s a beautiful iteration of Stigliani’s Bulgari Octo design, which often gets misattributed to Gerald Genta (although his 1990’s Octo model was obviously inspiration).
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 10th Anniversary Edition Specs
Model | Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 10th Anniversary Edition |
Reference | 103673 |
Case Material | Titanium |
Case Diameter | 42mm |
Case Thickness | 6.9mm |
Dial | “Sketched” text appearance |
Movement | BVL138 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 55 hours |
Bracelet/Strap | Titanium bracelet |
Water Resistance | 50m |
Limited Edition | 200 pieces |
Market Price (Jan. 2024) | $21,000 |
Omega Speedmaster Ed White
The Omega Speedmaster Professional has long been regarded as a good “value” in the watch collecting world. When someone asks a watch forum what Rolex he can get for $4,000-$5,000, he’ll inevitably be met with a flood of comments along the lines of “You should just get a Speedy Pro for that money.” For watch nerds, a Speedy Pro is pretty much the under-$5,000 king. Although new models have crept up to a list price of $7,000, used previous-generation models can be found for significantly less.
And since 2019, Omega has been enticing chronograph buyers in the $15,000-$20,000 range with the “Ed White” version of its Speedmaster Professional. Named and modeled after the Speedmaster worn by astronaut Ed White in the 1960’s, it has a smaller case (39.7mm vs. 42mm) and a different bracelet. But it’s otherwise pretty much the same as a typical Speedy Pro–except for the beautiful 321 movement. Omega’s famous Lemania-based Calibre 321 movement, used in all the Speedmaster Professionals from the moon race era, has re-entered production, this time with some gold accents and enhanced finishing.
“Every Calibre 321 is created inside OMEGA’s Calibre 321 Workshop. This unique production space is dedicated entirely to the iconic movement, with all of the assembly steps being performed by the same watchmaker.
Omega
The movement is a joy to look at, and the feel of starting and stopping a 321’s chronograph is an absolute pleasure. But is it worth paying so much more for the 321 movement? Well, given that the Ed White still sells well over retail price, many collectors seem to think so. It even usually sells for more than the actual vintage Ed White reference, 105.003! Even so, this modern 321 Speedy makes a solid case for the best chronograph watch under $20,000 right now.
Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 321 Specs
Model | Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Ed White |
Reference | 311.30.40.30.01.001 |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Case Diameter | 39.7mm |
Case Thickness | 13.7mm |
Dial | Black |
Movement | Omega Caliber 321 (Manual-wind, 5 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 55 hours |
Bracelet/Strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
Crystal | Sapphire |
Water Resistance | 50m |
MSRP (2024) | $15,400 |
Market Price (Jan. 2024) | $19,500 |
Zenith Chronomaster Original 03.3200.3600/21.C903
“Faux patina” gets a bad rap but really, it’s just tan lume. Now that we know tan lume looks nice, do we expect watch companies to avoid the color tan? In any case, it’s an easy decision to include a Zenith Chronomaster in this list. The Zenith Chronomaster forever established a place in wristwatch history as the first watch with an integrated automatic chronograph movement.
It’s harder to pick just one Chronomaster for this list, but the classic reverse-Panda dial combined with a brown leather strap and the modern 1/10th-of-a-second bezel is just about perfect. Tan lume and all. It’s everything I want from an El Primero, and to me it’s one of the best chronograph watches under $10,000.
Zenith Chronomaster Original 03.3200.3600/21.C903 Specs
Model | Chronomaster Original |
Reference | 03.3200.3600/21.C903 |
Diameter | 38 mm |
Thickness | 12.6 mm |
Case Material | Steel |
Movement | El Primero 3600 (Automatic, 10 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 60 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, date, chronograph with true 1/10th of a second indication |
Dial | Reverse panda |
Bracelet/Strap | Brown leather strap with tang buckle |
Market Price (Jan. 2024) | $8,000 |
Rolex Daytona 16523
Now let’s take a look at another watch with a Zenith El Primero movement. The Rolex Daytona famously featured Zenith-based movements from 1988-1999, although Rolex modified them to beat 8 times per second instead of the usual 10. The Daytona has been a particularly hot watch for the past decade or so, driving some dizzying over-MSRP asking prices. To say “Daytonas are overpriced!” is debatable, but it certainly wouldn’t qualify as a hot take. Even historically overlooked two-tone models can sell over retail when new.
But pre-owned two-tone Daytona prices have remained relatively reasonable, and at this point ref. 16523 is arguably the best value out of them all. I prefer the slate dial, which was only available on two-tone models and is no longer offered. A $15,000 price tag for a two-tone watch from the 1990’s might not sound cheap, but perhaps some buyers will find it more palatable than a $30,000 steel one.
Rolex Daytona 16523 Specs
Model Name | Daytona |
Model Number | 16523 |
Case Diameter | 40mm |
Case Thickness | 12mm |
Movement | Caliber 4030 (Automatic, 8 beats per second, Zenith El Primero base) |
Power Reserve | 40 hours |
Water Resistance | 100 meters |
Bracelet/Strap | Bracelet (Steel with yellow gold center links) |
Market Price (2024) | ~$15,000 |
Breitling Emergency E76321
Although the Navitimer is Breitling’s most iconic and recognizable chronograph, the Emergency deserves some love too. It’s the only quartz-powered watch in this list. And with its built-in emergency FM locator transmitter, the Breitling Emergency is the only watch on the market that also acts as a personal locator beacon, or “PLB.” Currently, only a 51mm version of the Emergency is still offered by Breitling, but older 43mm models like ref. E76321 are more wearable.
The back of the watch sternly warns the user to only activate the antenna–hidden underneath a very conspicuous screwdown crown of its own–in the event of a real emergency. Although the possibility of gnarly felonies and fines for false alarms might seem daunting, you’re unlikely to activate the Emergency’s locator beacon by mistake.
It would be very difficult to deploy by accident. It’s not just a matter of pulling the emergency antenna crown. You have to unscrew it with a bit of force and then pull out the antenna inside.
Scott D, Watch Talk Forums user
Modern Breitling Emergency models are equipped with “Dual Frequency” functionality, whereas older ones only broadcast on 121.5 MHz. The 121.5 MHz frequency isn’t monitored by the International Cospas Sarsat Programme, like the more modern and precise 406 MHz channel is. But 121.5 MHz is still monitored by the majority of air traffic control facilities, flight service stations, national air traffic control centers, and military air defense operations.
For everyday purposes, it’s nice that the bottom digital LCD display can show chronograph times to 1/100th of a second with high-end quartz accuracy. Unlike typical luxury chronographs, it could credibly be used as a backup stopwatch at your kid’s swim meet. Plus, these neo-vintage titanium Breitling bracelets are an absolute lightweight joy. But if you’d prefer something more affordable than an Emergency–or perhaps if you don’t love the infamous “Frankenstein bolt” aspect of the design–consider a Breitling Aerospace, which can be found for very reasonable prices from grey market dealers.
Breitling Emergency E7632110 Specs
Model | Emergency |
Reference | E7632110 |
Case Diameter | 43mm |
Thickness | 15.7mm |
Case Material | Titanium |
Movement | Breitling B56 SuperQuartz (based on ETA 988.332) |
Functions | Analog: Hours, minutes Digital: Alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, second time zone |
Battery Life | 5 years with LCD screens off, less if you regularly use the chronograph and second time zone display |
Bracelet/Strap | Titanium three-link bracelet |
Market Price (Jan. 2024) | ~$6,000 |
TAG Heuer Monaco CAW2111 – The “Walter White Watch”
The TAG Heuer Monaco is another one of those “obvious-choice-but-which-model” watches when it comes to any list of the best chronographs. Its history as the first automatic chronograph (or at least one of them) and a preferred wristwatch of Steve McQueen helped the Monaco reach its iconic status. Despite various subdial and color configurations over the years, its fat hands and attractive 39mm square case have remained virtually unchanged.
For the money, it’s tough to beat the “Heisenberg/Walter White Watch” that Jesse Pinkman gifted Walter White in the show Breaking Bad. Ref. CAW2111 can be found pre-owned for about $4,000, and it features a classy blue dial with square contrasting subdials and red accents. Although some collectors prefer in-house movements, you’ll never have to worry about the serviceability of the CAW2111’s perfectly capable Sellita-based movement. As far as most luxury watch enthusiasts are concerned, few chronographs can credibly compete with a classic pre-owned Omega Speedmaster Professional in the sub-$5,000 range. But this now-discontinued Monaco reference is one of them.
TAG Heuer Monaco CAW2111 Specs
Model Name | Monaco Calibre 12 |
Model Number | CAW2111 |
Case Diameter | 39mm |
Case Thickness | 14.35mm |
Movement | TAG Heuer Calibre 12 (Sellita SW300 base with Dubois-Depraz chrono module) |
Power Reserve | 40 hours |
Water Resistance | 100 meters |
Crystal | Curved sapphire crystal |
Caseback | Exhibition caseback |
Dial | Blue with white subdials |
Bracelet/Strap | Blue alligator strap with folding clasp (Bracelets available for purchase) |
Market Price (2024) | ~$4,000 |