5 Reasons Not to Sleep on H. Moser & Cie Watches

Jamie Morton Thursday, July 27th, 2023 6 min. read

H. Moser & Cie. is one of the most respected independent Swiss watch brands, boasting a rich history spanning nearly 200 years and an impressive portfolio of in-house mechanical movements. Still, the brand is a sleeper that, perhaps to the dismay of many die-hard enthusiasts, has grown in popularity in recent years. The celebrated independent Swiss brand only produces around 3,000 watches annually and boasts a price point out of most collectors’ budgets. Yet, the company has seen phenomenal success and sky-rocketing sales since it was acquired by the Meylan family while on the brink of bankruptcy in 2012. 

H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Ref 1806-0201
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Ref 1806-0201

H. Moser & Cie. watches are certainly collection-worthy if you have the budget to invest. But what makes them worthy of their motto, “very rare?” Here are five reasons why the modern collector shouldn’t sleep on H. Moser & Cie.

1. H. Moser & Cie. is a Small Independent Swiss Watch Brand

Heinrich Moser founded H. Moser & Cie. in 1828 in St. Petersburg, Russia.  Amazingly, the company is still family-owned and operated and remains one of the few independent Swiss watch brands. Even today, they remain dedicated to keeping many aspects of production in-house to ensure the quality of every timepiece they sell.  Furthermore, H. Moser & Cie. boasts a relatively modest production of about 3,000 watches per year, hand-crafted on-demand by a team of expert watchmakers.  It isn’t very likely you’ll see many H. Moser watches out in the wild.  To compare, Rolex is said to produce between 800,000 and 1 million watches per year. 

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Golden Edition Ref 1341-101
H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Golden Edition Ref 1341-101

The appeal of a smaller brand over its mass-produced competitors and its inherent exclusivity is enough to win the respect of even the most discerning watch collectors – those who appreciate genuine watchmaking at its finest.

2. Their Movements Are Made In-House

H. Moser is one of the only brands to boast a fully integrated manufacture, producing their own watch movements and components in-house or through their sister company, Precision Engineering AG.  Additionally, H. Moser is one of the few brands in the Swiss watchmaking business to make hairsprings (one of the most challenging watch components to produce) in-house, as well as balance wheels and other intricate and often-microscopic parts other companies don’t have the capacity to make themselves. 

H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Ref 18006-0201
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Ref 18006-0201

Learn more: Anatomy of a Watch: Explaining the Parts of a Watch

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3. H. Moser & Cie. Can Be Relatively Affordable

While the brand isn’t exactly the definition of affordable luxury, H. Moser & Cie. isn’t entirely unobtainable, either.  The brand’s eclectic portfolio has a variety of models, ranging from simple, time-only watches to those with complex mechanisms, such as a minute repeater or tourbillon.  One of the most affordable current-production models is the Centre Seconds housed within the Pioneer collection, which retails for around USD 14,900.  Prices are even more competitive in the grey market.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Ref 3200-1207
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Ref 3200-1207

As a stainless steel model with a time-only dial and a rubber strap, that number still might give collectors a bit of sticker shock, considering all the other options currently on the market. However, it’s still an excellent gateway into H. Moser & Cie. ownership.  Not to mention, that price includes an in-house mechanical movement produced by a small, independent Swiss watch company.  Additionally, no expense is spared in the build and quality of each watch, from the intricate movements to the details on the dial.  H. Moser watches embody quality craftsmanship, inside and out, for a truly outstanding wrist-wearing experience at any budget.

4. H. Moser & Cie. Dials are Unlike Any Other

The watch face is one of the most distinguishing features of any timepiece, and even more so is the logo, which is often prominently displayed on the dial.  As is typical with many luxury brands, labels are everything.  You’d be hard-pressed to find a Louis Vuitton purse without the iconic “LV” logo or a Rolex without its signature five-point coronet.  In that regard, H. Moser stands apart.  Many of their dials, although not all, feature minimal brand representation, sometimes even forgoing a logo altogether or engraving it on the crystal instead of the watch face itself.  It’s a bold design move largely adopted by the brand in 2015 that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking traditions.

H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Ref 1200-0215
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Ref 1200-0215

Most of the dials in the H. Moser & Cie. catalog are elegant in their simplicity and achieve the same functionality as other Swiss brands but in a cleaner, more minimalistic fashion. There is also a range of textures and motifs in the brand’s catalog to appeal to nearly any wrist, including the evocative fumé dial with a stunning gradient, aka “smoky,” design, and the hammered and mosaic decorated dials within the Endeavor collection.

More about watch dials:
A Primer on Watch Hour Markers
Everything You Need to Know About Khanjar Dial Watches
A Complete Guide to Every Special Rolex Dial Ever Produced

5. Unorthodox Design Ethos

Much of H. Moser’s success, since the Meylan family bought the company a decade ago, can be attributed to its unorthodox approach to design. From the Vantablack Swiss Alp Watch that mocked the wave of smartwatches flooding the market to the Swiss Mad model featuring actual cheese cased in resin and the current-production Pioneer Perpetual Calendar with little to no markers, polarizing design elements have proven to be a solid marketing strategy for the brand. At the same time, H. Moser remains true to its history and leans heavily on its already-established ability to produce high-quality watches with precise movements – a proven recipe for success.

H. Moser & Cie. embodies haute horlogerie, featuring impeccable quality, in-house movements, unique design elements, and the exclusivity of a smaller, family-owned Swiss watch company – just a few of the many reasons to consider investing in the brand.

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