Tudor’s present-day success was anything but a foregone conclusion. It’s easy to forget that when the Black Bay was launched in 2012, Tudor still wasn’t being sold in the US. But the original Black Bay, with its throwback dive watch aesthetic and burgundy bezel insert, was an immediate hit in the $3,000-$4,000 segment. It certainly helped Tudor have a successful American re-entry the following year. Tudor has expanded the Black Bay line to include chronographs, GMT’s, and various sizes and materials. Some watch enthusiasts have jokingly called Tudor the “Black Bay Watch Company” because so much of their lineup is now made up of Black Bay variants. Here we’ll give you a comprehensive but concise guide to the Tudor Black Bay.
What is the Tudor Black Bay?
The Black Bay is essentially a modern reinterpretation of the classic Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner, borrowing its distinctive “Snowflake” hour hand with generous lume and a diamond-shaped tip. The traditional Black Bay model is a 41mm dive watch, but now there are essentially four families of Black Bay:
- Dive watches (offered in four sizes and several materials)
- GMT watches (both GMT-Master style and Explorer II style)
- Chronographs
- Non-sports watches (smooth bezel or diamond bezel, various sizes between 31-41mm)
All the sports models have a depth rating of 200m, while the non-sports Black Bays are rated to 100m. Let’s go over all the Black Bay variants now.
Black Bay 41mm Dive Watch
The original 41mm versions were powered by ETA movements and called “Heritage Black Bay” models. Their dials featured the classic Tudor rose logo instead of the newer shield. Its signature burgundy dive bezel insert was always popular, but Tudor soon began offering blue and black inserts as well. Tudor has consistently offered their Black Bays with a choice of bracelet, leather, or fabric straps.
The Second Generation
The first major shakeup of the Black Bay lineup came in 2016: the second generation of Black Bays debuted with an in-house chronometer movement and two new colorways: a green bezel insert (exclusive to Harrod’s) and a PVD-coated case option (Black Bay Dark, which was discontinued in 2021). The “smiley” curved dial text at the bottom is gone, as is the rose logo.
Third Generation: Master Chronometer
The third generation of 41mm Tudor Black Bay dive watch started in 2021 with the Black Bay Ceramic, featuring a “black on black” look, a ceramic case, and an upgraded movement. Tudor seems to be taking a rather cheeky shot at Omega by getting these watches “Master Chronometer”-certified by METAS, Switzerland’s Federal Institute of Metrology. Omega had previously been the only brand to have their watches certified as such–which requires an already-chronometer-certified movement to be off by no more than two seconds per day and have extreme magnetic resistance (among other metrics).
In 2023, the standard steel 41mm Black Bay with a burgundy bezel entered the “Master Chronometer generation” as well. A Jubilee bracelet option was added to this third-generation Black Bay along with the Oyster. The black-bezel Black Bay was updated in 2024. Most collectors expect the blue one to be updated in 2025 at the next Watches and Wonders fair.
Black Bay Bronze
In 2016, the Tudor Black Bay Bronze first appeared, with a pleasant brown “3-6-9” dial and a hefty 43mm diameter. A Bucherer-exclusive blue dial appeared in 2017, often affectionately called the “BBBBB” (Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue). By 2019, the brown dial had been changed to slate. Bronze cases inevitably develop patina over time, but they can be made shiny again with a simple polish–although some collectors love to leave it as-is.
Black Bay 58
2018 was another big year for the Black Bay. The downsized and unapologetically retro Black Bay Fifty-Eight entered the lineup, inspired by Tudor Submariners from 1958. It featured a 39mm diameter, gilt dial, and the first appearance of glued-on faux rivets on the bracelet. The concept of “faux rivets” gets its share of hate from watch nerds but in real life, they look fine and it’s not really something you think about. A blue dial/bezel option was introduced in 2020, and for a while there were waiting lists for both colorways.
In 2021, BB58 variants were released in each of the three “Olympic” medals–yellow gold, silver, and bronze. The gold one has a green dial, a display caseback, and a full list price of $18,000 that surely nobody ever pays. The silver one also has an exhibition caseback, and an appealing grey dial. It got some attention for a while, but collector enthusiasm seems to have cooled for the silver case ever since pictures of visible corrosion were posted by owners alarmingly quickly. Frankly, there’s a reason the watch industry switched from silver to stainless steel a century ago. Lastly, the bronze BB58 has a well-executed “brown-bronze” dial, and unlike the gold and silver versions, it comes on a bracelet. But unfortunately, it’s a boutique-only offering, and there aren’t many Tudor boutiques in the US yet.
Steel Black Bay Fifty-Eight models remain the most popular of all, and they tend to retain their value better than the standard 41mm Black Bays. For 2024, Tudor introduced the first Black Bay 58 GMT. It has modern features like Master Chronometer certification and a T-Fit clasp. Aside from the BB58 Bronze, none of the other 58 models have a quick-adjust clasp. If you want to upgrade an old Black Bay 58’s bracelet, reddit user Rolo316 figured out that the Tudor Ranger bracelet (featuring the new T-Fit clasp) fits just fine:
Stop by your local Tudor AD and ask to purchase the Ranger bracelet. It’ll fit your BB58 and has a micro-adjust clasp. If you run a quick search, you’ll find what you need.
Rolo316
Black Bay 54
If the 39mm Black Bay Fifty- Eight is too large for you, there is now a smaller dive watch option from Tudor, and it comes with a T-Fit clasp from the factory. The 37mm Black Bay 54 debuted in 2023, and although it looks very similar to the BB58, you can easily identify it by the lack of hash marks on the bezel insert. For now, a black dial/bezel is the only option, although buyers can choose between a rubber strap ($3,700 MSRP) and an Oyster bracelet ($3,900). The rubber strap option, which comes with fixed steel endlinks, is an interesting change from the expected fabric and faux-leather straps.
Black Bay with Date
In 2017, Tudor released two Black Bay models with a date, both 41mm–the Black Bay Steel and the Black Bay S&G. “S&G” is Tudor’s term for “steel and gold,” but collectors usually just say “two-tone watches.” Note that the gold center link on S&G bracelets is not solid gold, but it’s not merely gold plating either–it’s rolled gold, which is a pretty legit, thick layer of gold on top.
The unloved Black Bay Steel was discontinued in 2022. I like the look of the steel bezel; I think it’s underrated.
Black Bay GMT
Since its launch in 2018 alongside a new Rolex Pepsi, the Black Bay GMT has been one of Tudor’s most popular watches. Its MSRP ($4,375 on a bracelet as of March 2024) is less than half that of a Rolex GMT-Master II.
In 2022, the S&G GMT was added to the lineup, and collectors often refer to it as the “Diet Root Beer GMT” because of its resemblance to the Rolex Root Beer GMT. The opaline (white) GMT dial released in 2023 also got plenty of attention.
Black Bay Pro
The Black Bay Pro, unashamed about its obvious Rolex Explorer II-derived inspiration, entered the lineup in 2023 with a fixed steel 24-hour bezel and a 39mm case. It’s one of the hottest watches in the Tudor lineup, although it’s easier to get now than it was upon release (as is often the case with Tudor).
Some collectors have complained about the thickness of Tudor’s GMT watches (both the Black Bay Pro and Black Bay GMT are >14.5mm thick), and quite a few have experienced a “sticking date wheel” issue. Aside from that, the Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro have both been home runs for Tudor.
Black Bay Chronograph
The Black Bay Chronograph, launched in 2017, is my personal favorite iteration of the Black Bay. Affectionately known as the “Baytona” to collectors, like many Tudor models, it doesn’t hide its Rolex-centric inspiration. While the original steel-bezel version, ref. 79350, was well-received, the Black Bay Chronograph lineup didn’t really catch fire until the second generation of steel models (70360) was released in 2021. The black bezel insert, combined with a “Panda” or “reverse Panda” dial, was an instant hit.
Interestingly, all Tudor Black Bay Chrono movements are based on the excellent Breitling B01 movement. In exchange, Tudor supplies Breitling with MT5612 movements that they use in their Superocean Heritage B20 line. The S&G Chrono entered the lineup in 2019. And if you see a Black Bay Chrono with a black PVD-treated case, it might be a rare limited edition made specially for the New Zealand All Blacks or the Tudor Pro Cycling team.
Black Bay Smooth Bezel (or Diamond Bezel)
The first Black Bay offered with a smooth bezel was the Black Bay 36, which appeared in 2016. Soon it was available in 32mm and 41mm sizes as well, all with ETA movements at first. S&G versions featured Jubilee bracelets, while steel ones had Oysters.
From 2022-2023, Tudor phased in a new generation: the Black Bay 32 became the Black Bay 31, and a new Black Bay 39 size was added. The entire lineup received in-house chronometer movements, the steel bracelets became Jubilee, and a diamond bezel option was added for all sizes except 41. Officially, Tudor calls this lineup the Black Bay 31/36/39/41, which rolls right off the tongue.
Black Bay P01
The Tudor Black Bay P01, ref. 70150, was released in 2019 as a nod to a bizarre prototype watch developed for the US Navy in 1967. The 12-hour steel bezel is distinctive, as is the 4 o’clock crown. But the massive locking endlinks are certainly the most prominent feature. The 12 o’clock endlink can be lifted up to unlock the rotating bezel. Frankly it seems to have been just a bit too weird to catch on with most collectors, but the P01 is definitely an interesting watch. It’s also the only 42mm Black Bay model so far.
Tudor Black Bay Timeline
2012 | The original Heritage Black Bay, ref. 79220R, debuts with a burgundy bezel insert and an ETA 2824 movement. |
2013 | Blue bezel insert option added |
2015 | Black bezel insert option added |
2016 | Black Bay 36 (the first smooth-bezel Black Bay) debuts alongside the 43mm Black Bay Bronze. New generation of the standard Black Bay dive watch, ref. 79230, gets in-house movement and a PVD option (Black Bay Dark). New green bezel insert option is exclusive to Harrod’s. |
2017 | Black Bay Chronograph debuts with black dial and steel bezel. Steel bezel and two-tone (“S&G”) dive watch options added, both with date function. Blue dial option added for Black Bay Bronze, exclusive to Bucherer New smooth bezel size: Black Bay 41 |
2018 | Two very popular new models debut: Black Bay 58 and Black Bay GMT. S&G models get a champagne dial option Black Bay 32 enters the lineup and the Black Bay 36 adds a blue dial option |
2019 | Black Bay Chrono gets S&G option, and a special PVD version for the New Zealand All Blacks (BB Chrono Dark) The controversial P01 debuts S&G BB32 and BB36 added to lineup (with Jubilee bracelets) |
2020 | BB58 now available with blue dial/bezel |
2021 | Bronze/Silver/Gold Black Bay 58 models New generation of steel Black Bay Chrono Black Bay Ceramic |
2022 | Black Bay Pro debuts Black Bay GMT gets S&G option (“Diet Root Beer GMT”) New generation of smooth/diamond bezel 31/36/39/41 in S&G only (in-house movements now) Champagne dial for S&G Chrono |
2023 | White (opaline) GMT dial added New generation of Black Bay with burgundy bezel: Master Chronometer with Jubilee option New generation of steel smooth bezels also gets in-house movements and Jubilee bracelets |
A Note About Tudor Logo Dials
In the past, Rolex logo dials were made for various organizations who wished to reward distinguished individuals or employees. While Rolex no longer customizes dials like that, Tudor seems to be carrying the torch. Many Black Bay (and Pelagos) logo dials have been produced with custom government or sports team insignias–and there are even some Tudor military watches made for particular combat units.
Future of the Black Bay
Time will tell if Tudor’s lineup continues to be so heavily Black Bay-centric forever. Maybe we’ll look back fondly on this era as the “Black Bay Era” in due time. But for now, I want Tudor to know…it’s OK to make a watch without Snowflake hands. You know, if you want.
More on Tudor:
Rolex Sales at All-Time High in 2023 as Tudor Sales Decline: Report
Guide To The Best Tudor Watch Models
On The Wrist: Vintage Tudor Submariner 75090 Review
How to Sell a Tudor Watch
The Tudor Pelagos FXD in Black