Rolex’s famous Submariner dive watch lineup is notorious for its slow, methodical evolution. When the Rolex 16610 Submariner Date model was released in 1988, it was barely different than the model before it (168000). The Rolex lineup was a lot simpler then. There was no Sky-Dweller, no Yacht-Master, no ceramic, and no large version of the Datejust or Day-Date. Nowadays, there are so many desirable Rolexes that when somebody asks a watch forum “what Rolex should I get?” the replies are mostly bemoaning the question and telling the user to figure out what they like for themselves. And that’s valid. But back in the early 2000’s, the answer to that question was often “just get a 16610.” A Rolex 16610 used to be an almost universal recommendation for a first Rolex. It was a mainstay of the Rolex catalog for over 20 years, and it’s one of the most common Submariner references to see in the wild. But there were a few subtle changes to the Rolex 16610 over the years, and we’ll go over all of them in this article.
Rolex 16610 Specs
Model | Submariner Date |
Reference | 16610 (Lugholes, 1988-2002) 16610T (No lugholes, 2003-2010) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Case Diameter | 40mm |
Case Thickness | 12.7mm |
Water Resistance | 300m |
Movement | Rolex 3135 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Bracelet/Strap | Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with Fliplock clasp |
Market Value (Apr. 2024) | $9,500 (Black insert, hollow endlinks) $10,000 (Black insert, solid endlinks) $13,500 (Green insert) $19,000 (Green insert w/flat 4) |
The variations among Rolex Submariner Date 16610 models are all pretty minor; the two most important changes throughout its run were the non-radioactive lume beginning around 1999 and the solid endlinks beginning in 2000. Well, the other important change to the lineup was the option of a green bezel insert beginning in 2003, but we’ll get more into the Kermit Submariner later. For now, we’ll give you a concise timeline of the evolution of the 16610LN (LN stands for “lunette noir,” as in “black bezel”).
Keep in mind, Rolex doesn’t do “model years” and these aren’t completely exact cut-and-dried timeframes; something I have listed as “1999” could’ve been seen in late 1998 etc. Now let’s get to the variants:
Rolex 16610 Timeline
1988 | The Submariner Date ref. 16610 replaces the short-lived 168000. The 3135 movement replaces the outgoing 3035, and that’s really the only change. |
1999 | Tritium lume is gone in favor of non-radioactive SuperLuminova. “Swiss T < 25” is replaced by only “Swiss.” |
2000 | All Submariners get solid endlinks (“SEL”). |
2001 | The Swiss-only dials are gone; they now say “Swiss Made.” |
2003 | No more lugholes! The new lughole-free reference is known as 16610T. Also the 50th anniversary edition with a green bezel insert (16610LV) is released. |
2007 | Engraved “ROLEXROLEXROLEX” rehaut appears. |
2010 | 16610 discontinued, replaced by the 116610 with large lugs and a ceramic bezel insert. |
Rolex 16610 Endlinks: How to Tell SEL vs. HEL?
If it looks like the end of the bracelet is going into the endlink, you’ve got hollow endlinks (HEL) and the bracelet reference will be 93150. That was the standard bracelet for a 16610 through about 1999. The 93250 bracelet has solid endlinks (SEL), where the first center link appears to go right to the lip of the bezel. People often ask if having SEL really makes a difference, and yes, it does. It feels less “jangly,” but honestly the HEL bracelets are fine and have their own charm as well.
A Note About LumiNova vs. Super-LumiNova
Submariners from about 1999-2000 just say “Swiss” at the bottom of the dial instead of “Swiss Made.” Some people say these “Swiss-only” Submariners (from 1999-2000) have LumiNova, while ones with “Swiss Made” have Super-LumiNova, but I’m not sure how this notion got started. They’re all Super-LumiNova!
Keep in mind, Super-LumiNova is just a Swiss brand of LumiNova-based pigments. There’s nothing “Super” about it; that’s just their brand name, and it’s the brand Rolex always used. I’ve seen no actual evidence that Rolex ever used Japanese-made LumiNova (which was the only LumiNova available before Super-LumiNova).
What is a “Flat S” Dial?
A “flat S” Submariner dial, also sometimes called a “Zorro dial” or a “Zubmariner” dial, has a different font for the “Submariner text” that includes a more backwards-Z-like “S.” Zorro dials first appeared on ref. 168000 in 1988, and they have an even flatter S. Then some slightly milder Zorros seem to randomly appear on some 14060 and 16610 models from about 2001-2005. They’re fairly rare, and some people think they’re cool, but they don’t bring a huge market premium. I’ve only seen them on Submariners with black bezel inserts. But now let’s talk about the green ones.
16610LV – The Rolex Kermit
In 2003, the 16610LV debuted with a green bezel insert to celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary. LV stands for “lunette verte,” as in “green bezel.” It featured extra-large hour plots that collectors call “maxi” plots, as well as a more prominent “maxi” minute hand.
What are the variations among 16610LV models?
By the time the Rolex 16610 LV debuted in 2003, the Submariner Date lineup already had solid endlinks, SuperLuminova lume, and a no-lugholes case. There are really only two things that changed throughout the Kermit’s run:
- Bezel insert – The very first 16610 LV’s have a “flat 4” on the bezel insert, meaning the top of the 4 has a flat horizontal section. These are the most desirable, and sellers charge a premium for these compared to the more common pointy 4’s. Personally I would rather focus on overall condition of the watch; I think the hype for the flat 4 is a bit overblown but it is what it is. Also, whether it’s because of variations in paint or sun exposure, there are a variety of green hues that can be seen on the LV bezel inserts–ranging from forest green to grass green.
- Engraved rehaut – The engraved Rolex rehaut first appeared on Datejust models in 2004, and Submariners seemed to get them around 2007. So, if you see “ROLEXROLEXROLEX” etched into the “rim” around the edge of the dial, that’s what we call an “engraved rehaut” indicating it’s one of the later 16610’s.
What’s the Difference Between Rolex 16610V and 16610LV?
No difference. They’re the same thing.
16610 vs. Modern Sub: How Does it Compare?
Aside from the bezel insert being made of almost-unscratchable ceramic instead of aluminum, the main noticeable upgrade that a new Sub has over a 16610 is the clasp. The modern Glidelock clasps, with their quick adjustability and pleasant heft, are pretty sweet. The trusty old “tuna can” clasp can feel dated after you’ve tried Glidelock, but there’s nothing wrong with it. Newer Subs also have a newer generation of movement, but the caliber 3135 found in the 16610 is incredibly reliable–and quieter.
What’s a COMEX Submariner?
A COMEX Submariner, featuring the COMEX logo on the dial, is one of the most desirable and rare Rolex watches there is. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) is a French commercial diving company, and Rolex supplied them with Submariners and Sea-Dwellers from the 1970’s until the late 1990’s. The two companies had a special relationship, and COMEX even helped Rolex with the invention of the helium escape valve on the original Sea-Dweller. Quite a few special Rolex logo dials were made over the years, but COMEX ones are probably the most sought-after of all.
And that concludes my guide to the Rolex 16610 Submariner Date model. I hope that coherently covers the six “phases” of its evolution (plus the LV), although some collectors get even nerdier and break down miniscule dial spacing changes into even more “marks.” But really, no matter what variant you’re looking at, you can’t go wrong with a Rolex 16610.
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