Patek Philippe – Nautilus Chronograph
5980/1A
Stainless Steel – Blue-Black, Black & White Dials – Discontinued 2014
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A was the first chronograph in the Nautilus family. Introduced in October 2006 for the Nautilus 30th anniversary, it is powered by the CH 28-520 C, a variant of Patek Philippe’s first in-house self-winding chronograph caliber, which had debuted months earlier in the 5960P. The steel 5980/1A was produced from 2006 to 2014 in three dial configurations: blue-black gradient (5980/1A-001), black (5980/1A-014) and silvered white (5980/1A-019). It remains the only steel Nautilus chronograph without a second time zone, and it now trades well above retail as one of the most sought-after discontinued Nautilus references.
Basic Info
Caliber
Case
Bracelet
Functions
This page contains information about:
Current Prices
Market values for the steel 5980/1A based on Chrono24 dealer asking prices and EveryWatch recorded sales, September 2026. Sales figures above are from Luxury Bazaar records.
Average Sale Price
$131,498
Highest Sale
$350,000
Lowest Sale
$92,000
Sales Recorded YTD
9
Pre-Owned
Blue-Black Dial — Box & Papers
$115,000
Full set, excellent condition.
Pre-Owned
Blue-Black Dial — No Papers
$105,000
Very good condition. Watch-only and box-only.
Pre-Owned
White Dial — Box & Papers
$130,000
Full set, excellent condition.
Pre-Owned
White Dial — No Papers
$115,000
Very good condition. Incomplete-set.
In Stock Now
Reference History
How the Nautilus Chronograph
Got Here
1976
Ref. 3700 — The Original Nautilus
Gerald Genta designed the original Nautilus in 1976 as Patek’s first steel sports watch. The 3700/1A established the octagonal bezel, horizontal band dial, and integrated bracelet that define every Nautilus to follow. It was an unlikely proposition from a house built on dress watches in precious metal. The Nautilus proved the concept could work — and set the stage for a chronograph version three decades later.
Manual wind • Cal. 28-255 • 42mm • Steel • Original Nautilus
2006
Ref. 5980/1A — First Nautilus Chronograph
For the Nautilus 30th anniversary in 2006, Patek introduced the 5980 alongside the 5711 and 5712. The 5980 was a landmark for two reasons: it was the first chronograph in the Nautilus family, and it housed Patek’s first-ever self-winding chronograph movement built entirely in-house. The CH 28-520 C features a vertical clutch for smooth chronograph engagement, a 21-carat gold central rotor, and a mono-counter at 6 o’clock displaying both elapsed minutes and hours co-axially — keeping the dial as clean as possible despite the added complication. The blue-black gradient dial and 40.5mm case gave the watch a more muscular presence than any Nautilus before it.
Automatic • Cal. CH 28-520 C • 40.5mm • Flyback chronograph • First Nautilus chrono
2012 – 2014
Ref. 5980/1A White Dial
In 2012 Patek introduced a white dial variant of the steel 5980/1A. Produced for only two years before the reference was discontinued in 2014, the white dial 5980/1A had one of the shortest production runs of any modern Nautilus in steel. Its rarity makes it one of the most sought-after 5980 configurations among collectors today.
Automatic • Cal. CH 28-520 C • White dial • Produced 2012–2014 only
2014 – Present
Refs. 5980R, 5980/1AR — Precious Metal Variants
When Patek discontinued the steel 5980/1A in 2014, production continued in rose gold (5980R on leather strap), two-tone rose gold and steel (5980/1AR on bracelet), and eventually white gold. The rose gold variants use a gradient brown dial; the two-tone uses the original blue dial. Steel examples have become significantly more valuable since discontinuation as the only way to own the Nautilus chronograph in the original material is now the secondary market.
Rose gold • Two-tone • White gold • Steel discontinued 2014
Steel 5980/1A
Dial Options.
Blue-Black Gradient
Original Steel Configuration
The primary 5980/1A configuration. Blue-black horizontal gradient dial with the signature Nautilus embossed band texture, applied 18K white gold hour markers, luminescent coating, and date at 3 o’clock. The mono-counter chronograph subdial sits at 6 o’clock displaying elapsed minutes and hours co-axially. Produced 2006 to 2014.
5980/1A-001
Black Dial
Monochrome Steel Variant
Black dial on the same steel case and bracelet, added in 2010. It keeps the horizontal embossed pattern and applied white gold markers of the -001 but drops the blue-to-black gradient for a flatter, more monochrome look. Produced 2010 to 2014 and noticeably less common than the blue-black dial.
5980/1A-014
White Dial
Short-Run Steel Variant
Silvered-white dial with contrasting black markers and hands on the same steel case and bracelet. Produced only from 2012 to 2014, making it one of the shortest production runs of any modern Nautilus in steel. Examples are genuinely scarce and command a significant premium over the standard blue-black configuration.
5980/1A-019
Popular Patek Philippe 5980 Reference Numbers
Ref. 5980/1A-001
Steel — Blue-Black Dial
The original 2006 launch configuration and the reference this page covers. Steel case and bracelet, blue-black gradient dial. Produced 2006–2014; the most liquid of all Nautilus chronographs on the secondary market.
Ref. 5980/1A-014
Steel — Black Dial
Black dial variant added in 2010 and produced until the steel reference was discontinued in 2014. Same case, bracelet and CH 28-520 C movement; noticeably less common than the blue-black dial.
Ref. 5980/1A-019
Steel — White Dial
Silvered-white dial with black markers and hands, produced only 2012–2014. The rarest steel 5980 and the one that commands the largest premium over the blue-black dial.
Ref. 5980R-001
Rose Gold on Strap
First precious-metal 5980, introduced 2010. 18K rose gold case on a brown alligator strap with gradient brown dial. Removed from the catalogue in February 2024.
Ref. 5980/1R-001
Rose Gold on Bracelet
Full rose gold execution on the integrated Nautilus bracelet, with a gradient brown-black dial. The heaviest and most expensive of the classic 5980 line; discontinued in February 2024.
Ref. 5980/1AR-001
Two-Tone Steel & Rose Gold
Steel case and bracelet with rose gold bezel, crown, pushers and centre links, paired with the original blue-black dial. Introduced 2013 and discontinued in February 2024; the last 5980 with the classic blue dial.
Ref. 5980/60G-001
White Gold “Denim”
Launched at Watches and Wonders 2024 to replace the rose gold and two-tone models. White gold case, blue-gray opaline dial and two denim-pattern straps. The only non-gem-set 5980 currently in production.
Ref. 5980/1400G & 1400R
Gem-Set White & Rose Gold
Baguette-diamond bezel versions of the chronograph in white gold (5980/1400G-010) and rose gold (5980/1400R-011), both on matching gold bracelets. Current-catalogue haute joaillerie editions of the reference.
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