Geneva Watch Days 2025

Geneva Watch Days continues to expand its influence in the luxury watch industry, having quickly grown from six founding brands in 2020 to a slate of 66 exhibitors today. Geneva Watch Days 2025 is now underway, and we’ll tell you what it’s all about–and of course show you some of our favorite new releases from the event.

While Watches & Wonders remains the preeminent annual mega-release event of the luxury watch industry, Geneva Watch Days has decisively taken the #2 spot.

When and Where?

Geneva Watch Days 2025 runs from September 4-7, centered around the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc Pavilion in Geneva, Switzerland. Participating brands also showcase their novelties in boutiques and venues throughout the city, all roughly within a ten-minute walk of the pavilion, not far from the famous fountain known as “Le Jet d’Eau” on the shore of Lac Leman (that’s “Lake Geneva” to
most English speakers).

Is Geneva Watch Days 2025 Open to the Public?

Yes, Geneva Watch Days 2025 is open to the public. And unlike Watches and Wonders, there are no tickets to purchase; it’s a bit more informal. Last year, the first day was press-only, but that’s no longer the case.

Highlights

As the event unfolds we’ll keep digging through all the new releases, but we can already tell you about some highlights from a few of our favorite brands at Geneva Watch Days 2025.

TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator

TAG Heuer launched the Autavia Isograph line in 2019, featuring a cutting-edge carbon composite hairspring that aimed to maximize precision and magnetic resistance. But not long after release, the watches disappeared from official channels, and unsold stock was pulled from retailers. Clearly, the carbon composite hairspring wasn’t ready for prime time–but the TAG Heuer LAB didn’t give up on the idea, and at Geneva Watch Days 2025 they unveiled their first two watches to feature the new “TH-Carbonspring” oscillator. Its hairspring is a carbon composite while the balance wheel is aluminum, and small pieces of gold help counteract temperature fluctuations.

While silicon hairsprings have become the gold standard for advanced mechanical watchmaking, the composite hairspring in the TH-Carbonspring is superior in some aspects, like flexibility. It’s also extremely resistant to shocks, magnetism and temperature changes. TAG Heuer is already putting these on sub-$20,000 watches, so the TH-Carbonspring isn’t just some prestige-driven “concept” relegated to ultra-expensive pieces–I think it’s a sign of things to come.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Flying Hours

The Pioneer Flying Hours joins a long list of impressive H. Moser & Cie 2025 releases, and it’s essentially a clever inversion of a wandering-hours watch. On the Pioneer Flying Hours, the hour digit stays in place while the minute track continually rotates around the dial, whereas normally it’s the hour numeral that “wanders” across a static minute track.

Another twist is that the hour snaps over precisely at the top of each hour, and every time, the location of the hour rotates to the next of three spots (going clockwise). So if “10” had been at the top of the dial, then 11 o’clock struck, the “11” would appear on the right side of the dial for the following hour. Then 12 would appear on the left side of the dial for the hour after that, and so forth. The unused two hour slots are simply blank.

The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Flying Hours is available in stainless steel with a white fumé dial, or a combination of rose gold and black DLC-coated titanium with an outstanding aventurine dial.

Vianney Halter x Massena LAB Collab

The Vianney Halter x Massena LAB “Old Soul” appeared in the metal for the first time at Geneva Watch Days 2025, although some enthusiasts like our very own CEO Roman Sharf had already pre-ordered them sight unseen. This high-end collaboration is a limited edition regulator-style watch powered by a vintage Minerva 17’22 movement from the 1920s. The multi-tiered dial has been called “steampunk-inspired,” with a mystery minute display (meaning only the tip of the minute hand is visible).

The 42mm steel case is inscribed with “Time is the fire in which we burn,” and each watch is priced at CHF 37,000 including taxes. Only 47 will be made.

MB&F LM101 EVO

MB&F is a favorite among Luxury Bazaar staff and fans of high-end unusual complicated watches in general. Founder Max Büsser is widely regarded as one of the most creative and influential figures in modern horology, and although many of his aggressively avant-garde designs are divisive, he has designed some (relatively) conservative pieces as well. The LM101 EVO is a beautiful 2025 MB&F release that could almost pass for an ultra-conservative dress watch–if it weren’t for the massive central flying balance wheel suspended by a giant contoured arch. The LM1, launched in 2011, was the first MB&F watch with the huge central balance wheel concept, but I think the LM101 EVO is the best expression of it yet.

The LM101 EVO marks the 20th anniversary of MB&F. It comes in a 40mm titanium case with either a green or salmon dial plate integrated into the movement. The colors are achieved with chemical vapor deposition (CVD), and there’s no wrong choice between the two. If you can handle the list price (about $77,000) and the thickness (16.1mm), it’s a striking watch.

The Return of Dennison

Aaron Lufkin Dennison, one of the great figures in American watchmaking history, was known in his later years for running the prominent Dennison Watch Case Company in England. Years after his death, the Dennison name became well-known for the cases they made for top brands like Omega and Rolex. Although the company went out of business in 1967, the name was revived by investors in 2024, and there are some lovely vintage-inspired Dennison watches to see at Geneva Watch Days 2025.

Dennison’s 2025 lineup consists of 4 ALD Stone Dial watches with a $690 price tag (Tiger Eye, Malachite, Lapis, and Aventurine dials) and 5 ALD Dual Time models, which have “split” dials (Tiger Eye & Marble, Bloodstone & Lapis, Malachite & Green sunray, Lapis & Blue sunray, Aventurine) and list for $890. All feature stainless steel TV cases with a diameter of 33.65mm and a thickness of only 6.1mm. The humble but reliable Swiss Ronda quartz movement keeps cost (and case height) low. That’s a pretty good price for a watch designed by Emmanuel Gueit–the man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium

Among the 2025 Ulysse Nardin releases is their second ever watch with a Crystalium dial. Crystalium is crystallized ruthenium, and it first appeared in purple on a special Watches of Switzerland edition of a Ulysse Nardin released in 2024. For Geneva Watch Days 2025, UN has unveiled a sparkly rose gold dial on the Freak X Crystalium.

With a list price of $42,200, this is an expensive watch, although the Freak X is still far more affordable (and arguably more everyday-wearable) than the even quirkier Freak and Freak S models. On the original Freak, almost the entire movement rotates around, acting as the minute hand. The Freak X is similar, except it’s just the balance wheel and escapement mounted on the minute hand–most of the gear train is hidden under the dial.

With stark black hands against a sparkly gold backdrop, this Crystalium version might be the most legible (and attractive) Freak X release yet.

Zenith El Primero USM Chronograph

I didn’t expect one of my favorite releases from Geneva Watch Days 2025 to be a collaboration with a furniture brand, but here we are. Zenith collaborated with USM Modular Furniture to come up with a vintage-inspired set of four colorful chronographs. The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM largely has the vibe of Zenith’s iconic 1969 Defy Diver, but in chronograph form, and with rich colors often found on USM’s furniture.

Each colorway (Gentian Blue, Golden Yellow, Green, and Pure Orange) is limited to 60 pieces and priced at $11,800. The legendary high-beat El Primero 400 movement inside provides 50 hours of power reserve. I love the classic ladder bracelet, and the 37.3 diameter should fit just about anyone. I think the USM Chronograph is one of the best 2025 Zenith releases.

De Bethune

Influential avant-garde luxury watch brand De Bethune has released the DB25xs Starry Varius with a Burgundy Dial that has essentially been heat-pinked rather than heat-blued. Typically, only blue and purple hues are possible, but De Bethune has apparently mastered the process of colorizing titanium via heat treatment.

As you may know if you’re a fan of previous De Bethune Starry Varius models, every tiny shiny blob on the dial is a hand-set piece of white gold, and the finer space dust-like details are micro-milled with a laser. Previously, the backdrop for this Milky Way motif was blue, but the pinkish color (they call it “burgundy” but to me it looks more like rosé) works too.

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

The legendary watch designer Gérald Genta sold the last of his stake in his eponymous watch brand in 2000, 11 years before his death. Today, the Gérald Genta brand is owned by La Fabriques du Temps Louis Vuitton, one of the finest watchmakers in the industry, and they seem to be doing a good job of living up to his legacy. An example of that is the distinctive yet minimalist minute repeater watch the brand released at Geneva Watch Days 2025.

The 2025 Gérald Genta Minute Repeater features a 40mm x 9.6mm cushion-shaped 3N yellow gold case with double gadroons, an ultra-thin profile, a polished black onyx dial, and caliber GG-002 providing 80 hours of power reserve. This manual-wind caliber is fitted with two hand-tuned black-polished hammers and gongs, an octagonal inertia wheel, and phenomenal finishing. Production is limited to ten pieces per year and price is “on request.”

Geneva Watch Days 2025 Exhibitor List

Officially, the auctioneer Phillips (with Bacs & Russo) is listed among the 66 exhibitors because they’re hosting a charity auction during the event, so essentially 65 watch brands are exhibiting at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Most are independently owned, and 30 are making their first GWD appearance. The largest two brands at the fair, Breitling and TAG Heuer, barely crack the list of the world’s top 10 luxury watch brands by sales. Here’s the full list of exhibiting brands:

Brand	Owner	Where Made
Akor	Independent	Switzerland (Le Locle)
Alpina	Citizen	Switzerland (Geneva)
Alto	Independent	France (design), Switzerland (movement)
Amida	Independent	Switzerland
Artisans de Genève	Independent	Switzerland
Ba111od	Independent	Switzerland
Beauregard	Independent	Switzerland
Beda’a	Independent	Switzerland
Behrens	Independent	Hong Kong/China (assembly), Swiss calibres
Bianchet	Independent	Switzerland
Bimbu	Independent	Switzerland
Breitling	Partners Group / CVC	Switzerland
Bremont	Independent	UK (Henley-on-Thames)
Bvlgari	LVMH	Switzerland
Cedric Johner	Independent	Switzerland
Claude Meylan	Independent	Switzerland (Vallée de Joux)
Corum	Haso Mehmedovic & Swiss investors	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
Czapek & Cie	Independent	Switzerland (Genève & Le Locle)
David Candaux	Independent	Switzerland (Vallée de Joux)
De Bethune	The 1916 Company	Switzerland (L’Auberson)
Dennison	Independent	UK
Doxa	Independent	Switzerland
Egeiro	Independent	Switzerland
Emmanuel Bouchet	Independent	Switzerland
Favre Leuba	Slivercity Brands	Switzerland
Fears	Independent	UK/Switzerland
Ferdinand Berthoud	Independent	Switzerland
Frédérique Constant	Citizen	Switzerland (Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva)
Furlan Marri	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva, La Chaux-de-Fonds)
Gerald Charles	Independent	Switzerland
Greubel Forsey	Independent	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
H. Moser & Cie.	MELB Holding	Switzerland (Schaffhausen)
Hautlence	MELB Holding	Switzerland (Schaffhausen)
Jacob & Co.	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva), USA (NY HQ)
Konstantin Chaykin	Independent	Russia (Moscow)
Krayon	Independent	Switzerland
L’Epée	Independent	Switzerland
L. Leroy	Independent	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton/Gérald Genta	LVMH	Switzerland (Geneva)
Laurent Ferrier	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva)
Lederer	Independent	Switzerland (Saint-Blaise)
Linde Werdelin	Independent	Switzerland (production), Denmark (design/HQ)
Louis Erard	Independent	Switzerland (Le Noirmont)
Louis Moinet	Independent	Switzerland (Saint-Blaise)
Massena LAB	Independent	Switzerland (production), USA (design)
Maurice Lacroix	DKSH	Switzerland (Saignelégier)
Mauron Musy	Independent	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
MB&F	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva)
Micromilspec	Independent	Norway (design), Switzerland (production)
Ming	Independent	Switzerland (production), Malaysia (design)
Oris	Independent	Switzerland (Hölstein)
Perrelet	Festina Group	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
Raketa	Independent	Russia (Saint Petersburg)
Renaud Tixier	Independent	Switzerland
Singer Reimagined	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva)
Speake-Marin	Independent	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds, Geneva)
Squale	Independent	Switzerland (Chiasso)
Stollenwurm	Independent	Switzerland
TAG Heuer	LVMH	Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds)
Trilobe	Independent	Switzerland (Paris HQ, production in CH)
Tutima	Independent	Germany (Glashütte)
Ulysse Nardin	Independent	Switzerland (Le Locle)
Unimatic	Independent	Italy (design), Switzerland (production for higher-end)
Urwerk	Independent	Switzerland (Geneva, Zurich)
Zenith	LVMH	Switzerland (Le Locle)

Geneva Watch Days 2025 Corporate Breakdown: Lots of Indies, More LVMH, No Swatch or Richemont

Watches and Wonders, the undisputed #1 luxury watch fair these days, is connected to the Richemont Group (the conglomerate who owns Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and many more). So, Richemont brands never seem to turn up at Geneva Watch Days. And for 2025, Breguet, Blancpain, and Glashütte Original–all Swatch-owned brands that participated in Geneva Watch Days 2024–are absent.

And interestingly, the Citizen Group went downmarket with their exhibiting brands–Alpina and Frederique Constant showed up for Geneva Watch Days 2025, but Citizen’s higher-end Swiss brands, Angelus and Arnold & Son, did not. LVMH had dipped their toes in the GWD experience with two brands in 2024, and four LVMH brands are present for 2025: TAG Heuer, Zenith, Bulgari, and Louis Vuitton. Interestingly, Sowind Group sent Girard-Perregaux to Geneva Watch Days 2024, and for 2025 they sent their other watch brand instead–Ulysse Nardin.

As we noted last year, Omega no longer participates in major watch fairs like Watches & Wonders or Geneva Watch Days. In 2021 and 2022, Omega held their own release events called “Omega Days” but now they seem to prefer staggered releases throughout the year. The 2025 Omega releases have been frequent but unpredictable.

In any case, despite a slight downtick in large conglomerate-backed exhibitors, Geneva Watch Days 2025 has shown that a focus on independent brands can make for a successful luxury watch fair.