With the end of the year just over the horizon, we look back at all the watches released in 2023 and pick the best of the bunch. It wasn’t an easy task; with big events like Watches & Wonders, Geneva Watch Week, Dubai Watch Week, and GPHG in post-pandemic full swing, many brands released memorable models over the last 12 months. 2023 also marked major anniversaries of some famous watches, most notably the Rolex Daytona, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and TAG Heuer Carrera. And even though Only Watch 2023 had been postponed indefinitely due to mysterious money matters, watch brands had already produced and announced their one-off timepieces for the biennial charity event. With all that in mind, here are the 23 best watches of 2023, including some selected by team Luxury Bazaar.
Best Watches of 2023 Picked by Luxury Bazaar
1. MB&F HM11 Architect
Who: Roman Sharf, Founder & CEO
What: MB&F HM11 Architect, Limited Edition of 25 PIeces
Why: “It’s a literal house on the wrist.”
How Much: $230,000 MSRP
Announced at Dubai Watch Week 2023, the MB&F HM11 Architect is the company’s interpretation of a 1960’s bubble house in wristwatch form. Along with the flying tourbillon at the center of the dial, the watch includes four separate “rooms” and a series of “corridors” that connect them. Each of the four rooms houses a different function: the hour and minute display, the power reserve indicator, the temperature gauge, and the sapphire crown. Wearers can twist the watch on its foundation to decide which room faces them (driver style), and rotating the watch also serves to wind up the movement.
Further Reading:
The Best New Watches from Dubai Watch Week 2023
MB&F Introduces the Limited LMX Paris Edition Watch
2. Patek Philippe 5316/50P-001 Grand Complication
Who: Adrian Taskin Chief Procurement Officer
What: Patek Philippe 5316/50P-001 Grand Complication, Minute Repeater, Tourbillon, Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Why: “Doing what Patek Does best, excellence by incorporating a Minute Repeater Tourbillon Perpetual with an entirely open-worked scenescape..”
How Much: Price Upon Request
In 2023, Patek Philippe unveiled a new version of the Grand Complication ref. 5316 with a platinum case, blue metalized sapphire crystal dial, and a navy blue calfskin fabric patterned strap. The see-through dial offers a view of the manually wound Caliber R TO 27 PS QR movement powering five coveted complications: minute repeater, tourbillion, perpetual calendar, retrograde date display, and moon phase indicator. A modern take on a favorite Patek grand comp.
Further Reading:
What is a Grand Complication Watch?
New Patek Philippe Watches for 2023
Patek Philippe Unveils New Models For Fall 2023
3. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4
Who: Marco Ferrante, Junior Procurement Officer, and Bad Ass Sales Guy
What: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 Ref. 26398BC.OO.D002CR.02
Why: “Watchmaking marvel combining sublime movement finishing with AP’s technical watchmaking mastery.”
How Much: Price Upon Request
Boasting over 40 functions and 23 complications, the Code 11.59 RD#4 is Audemars Piguet‘s very first ultra-complicated self-winding wristwatch, which draws inspiration from the watchmaker’s legendary Universelle pocket watch from 1899. It took AP seven years to develop the Caliber 1000, the 1,100-component movement that powers the incredibly complex 42 mm watch. Some of the many complications found in the RD#4 include a grande sonnerie supersonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-seconds flyback chronograph, and a flying tourbillon.
Further Reading
What is a Minute Repeater Watch?
What is a Tourbillon Watch?
Six New Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watches Now In Steel
4. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 5261R
Who: Ana Tenenbaum, Chief Client Advisor
What: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 5261R
Why: “It marks a significant milestone as the first Aquanaut with an annual calendar complication. Perfect for women who prefer a larger sporty design as well as a horological complexity. Simultaneously, perfect for men who prefer a smaller case size…”
How Much: $61,510 MSRP
The popular Patek Philippe Aquanaut line welcomed its first annual calendar in the form of the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar ref. 5261R. Those familiar with Patek Philippe will know that the Aquanaut Luce collection is traditionally marketed to women; however, the ref. 5261R’s 39.9 mm rose gold case, blue-gray dial and strap, and practical complications make it perfectly suitable for both men and women to wear.
Further Reading:
What is an Annual Calendar Watch?
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Price Guide: How Much Does an Aquanaut Cost?
5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack”
Who: Alex Serrano, Client Advisor
What: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack,” Limited Edition of 200 Pieces
Why: “The Audemars Piguet Travis Scott collab arrives late in the year but leaves a lasting impact. Blending street style and high-end craftsmanship, it signifies a pivotal moment, applied by Travis Scott’s influence — a true game-changer in the industry. “
How Much: $201,000
Audemars Piguet is no stranger to collaborations, especially with personalities and brands that are important to current culture. AP’s latest collab is with Cactus Jack, a brand and label founded by American hip-hop artist Travis Scott, which gave us the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack.” Not only is the “Chocolate AP” watch crafted in brown ceramic (a first for Audemars Piguet) but it also features plenty of design details borrowed from Cactus Jack such as the typography, the hand of the day subdial shaped like the brand’s logo, and the smiley faces with their mouths sewn shut on the moon phase indicator.
Further Reading:
What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch?
What is a Moonphase Watch?
Guide to Audemars Piguet Nicknames
6. Rolex GMT-Master II 126718GRNR
Who: Kevin Boyce, Client Advisor
What: Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR
Why: “That’s how GMTs used to be made”
How Much: $38,900
Yellow gold had been absent from the GMT-Master II lineup for a few years; thankfully, Rolex brought it back in 2023 with the introduction of the 126718GRNR. While the 40mm yellow gold case, matching Jubilee bracelet, black dial, and Caliber 3285 are familiar, new to the model is the gray and black Cerachrom ceramic bezel—a first for Rolex.
Further Reading:
New and Discontinued Rolex Watches for 2023
What is a GMT Watch?
7. Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi
Who: Nicole Responds, Jewelry Client Advisor
What: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi ref. 103884
Why: “It’s a jewelry piece and timepiece all in one.”
How Much: EUR 354,000 (approximately $390,000)
The Serpenti watch is one of the most famous creations by Bulgari, available in a vast assortment of variations but always inspired by the snake. One iteration that arrived during Geneva Watch Days 2023 was the Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi, powered by the in-house Caliber BVL 100 hand-wound movement, dubbed the Piccolissimo or “very, very small” in Italian. Mechanics aside, this spectacular jewelry secret watch conceals the diamond snow-set watch dial inside the snake head. The body of the serpent is fashioned from 18k rose gold, decorated with black lacquer scales, navette diamonds, and two pear-shaped emerald eyes.
Further Reading:
The Best Releases From Geneva Watch Days 2023
8. Audemars Piguet x 1017 ALYX 9SM Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph
Who: Avi Shenkar, Chief Marketing Officer
What: Audemars Piguet x 1017 ALYX 9SM Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01, Limited Edition of 202 Pieces
Why: “I’m into unique timepieces that still have mass appeal while being extraordinary.”
How Much: $90,400
The Audemars Piguet x 1017 ALYX 9SM capsule collection is yet another collaboration from AP, this time with 1017 ALYX 9SM, a brand from American designer Matthew Williams. The capsule collection features five references, including the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26240BA.OO.1320BA.01. Fashioned entirely in 18k yellow gold, the 41mm watch leans into a minimalist aesthetic by eschewing chronograph counters entirely and only keeping a trio of hands at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.
Further Reading:
What is a Chronograph Watch?
Audemars Piguet Watch Prices: Historical and Current From Actual Sales Numbers
9. H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
Who: Nina Ricci, Social Media Manager
What: H Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
Why: “It’s a piece unique from two independent watch brands that combines both styles of MB&F and H. Moser (*beautiful* dials and display movements), tied together with a minute repeater complication played out by a DJing panda figurine directly on the dial… AND it was made for charity. What’s not to like? Even if you didn’t like the look of the watch, the watch itself is so cool.”
How Much? CHF 300,000 – 400,000 Pre-auction estimate
In the watch world, a Panda watch normally means a chronograph with a light dial punctuated with dark-colored subdials, which mimics the face of the lovable black and white bear. However, since independent watch brands H. Moser & Cie and MB&F have made it their business to eschew horology norms, these two super creative watchmakers have come up with their version of a Panda watch: the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium. The beautiful fumé dial (characteristic of Moser) of this stainless steel minute repeater watch is home to a mini Panda DJ standing at the visible hammers that chime the time on demand accompanied by a large suspended balance wheel (characteristic of MB&F) that occupies center stage.
Further Reading:
The Best & Worst from the 2023 Only Watch Auction Block
5 Reasons Not to Sleep on H. Moser & Cie Watches
10. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic
Who: Powerfunk, Grey Market Magazine Editor
What: Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic ref. ZO9592
Why: “I’m excited about the revived Zodiac lineup. The ceramic Super Seawolf is a perfect summer watch; Zodiac is showing us the right attitude and price point with this.”
How Much: $1,795
One of the best value propositions when it comes to diving watches, the Super Sea Wolf — a watch that has been around since the 1950s — is one of Zodiac’s most beloved. In 2023, the brand expanded the Super Sea Wolf Ceramic line with some “Summer” editions, complete with white cases and colorful dials and bracelets. The ref. ZO9592 combines green, orange, and white in striking fashion while the chronometer-certified automatic movement is well protected inside its 200-meter water-resistant ceramic case.
Further Reading:
What is a Dive Watch?
11. Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR
Who: Jamie Morton, Grey Market Magazine Contributor
What: Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
Why: “It’s the two-tone Rolex GMT in its original stainless steel and yellow gold glory, complete with a brand-new ceramic bezel colorway.”
How Much: $16,450
Accompanying the 2023 release of the full yellow gold GMT-Master II was the yellow Rolesor variant — the GMT-Master ref. 126713GRNR. LIke its yellow gold counterpart, this two-tone version includes the new gray and black “GRNR” Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which complements the combination of yellow gold and stainless steel perfectly.
Further Reading:
2023 Rolex GMT “Coke With Ice” Ref. 126758 RUSA
ROLEX GMT-MASTER II “ROOT BEER” 126711CHNR
12. Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Who: Celine Simon, Grey Market Magazine Contributor
What: Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Why: “Cartier returns to the origins of the Tank, a watch with a design that has inspired countless iterations, variations, and even, imitations.”
How Much: $46,600
When Cartier designed the Tank watch in 1917, there was only one, characterized by a square dial, a rectangular case with long case sides that stretched into lugs (called brancards in French), black Roman numerals on the dial, and a cabochon-cut sapphire set into the dial. The Tank underwent countless reincarnations over the decades so the maiden model was later dubbed the Tank Normale, which was what Cartier revived at Watches & Wonders 2023 as part of the brand’s Privé collection. Available in platinum or yellow gold with gorgeous matching maillon bracelets, these two pieces stay true to the original but with a few minor upgrades for the modern buyer.
The Other Best Watches of 2023
13. Hublot Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire MP-15
Featuring the famous flower motif of artist Takashi Murakami, this limited edition MP-15 watch features a central flying tourbillon — a first for Hublot. The flower-shaped case is fashioned entirely of sapphire for a full view of the mechanics. Limited to only 50 pieces worldwide, the Hublot Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire MP-15 is one of the most creative and thus, in our opinion, one of best watches of 2023.
14. Rolex Daytona Le Mans
2023 marked the 60th anniversary of Rolex’s beloved chronograph watch, and while the Swiss watchmaking giant dropped a whole new generation of Daytona models at Watches & Wonders, it was what came later in the year that caught everyone off guard. It was the white gold Rolex Daytona Le Mans ref. 126529LN watch made in honor of the 100th anniversary of the Le Mans endurance car race. The watch features a white gold case and Oyster bracelet, a black “Panda” Paul Newman-esque dial, a red “100” on the black Cerachrom bezel, and a sapphire crystal caseback for the view of the Caliber 4132 movement inside.
15. Chopard L.U.C 1860
Arguably the most handsome watch of 2023, the steel and salmon Chopard L.U.C. 1860 is a revamped version of one of the company’s classics. The Lucent Steel (Chopard’s proprietary steel alloy) case measures a restrained 36.5mm in diameter and 8.2mm thick while the guilloché gold dial takes on a gorgeous salmon shade — similar to the 2024 Color of the Year — thanks to galvanic treatment. Powering this fine time-only watch is the in-house Caliber L.U.C 96.40-L automatic movement with a micro-rotor, visible via the exhibition caseback.
16. Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Joyfulness is always a welcomed trait when it comes to watches, and that’s exactly what the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition promises. Aside from its vibrant Kermit green dial housed inside the 39mm titanium case, the date window at 6 o’clock will display everyone’s favorite muppet frog on the first of every month, which has now been dubbed “Kermit Day.” The most fun watch of 2023 also benefits from an automatic movement with an impressive 5-day power reserve.
17. Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms
Swatch teaming up with sister brand Blancpain to create an affordable version of the Fifty Fathoms was one of the biggest watch stories of 2023. Following a similar approach to the MoonSwatch collaboration between Swatch and Omega, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection offers a colorful range of Bioceramic versions of Blancpain’s famed dive watch, complete with self-winding movements.
18. Tudor Black Bay 54
A modern take on the very first Tudor dive watch, the Black Bay 54 was a smash hit at Watches & Wonders 2023 offering a compact size and vintage-inspired design. The steel case measures 37mm while the black 60-click bezel matches the black no-date dial with gilt details. What’s more, the Black Bay 54 is available on a matching steel bracelet or black rubber strap, both options benefitting from the T-Fit toolless micro-adjustment clasp for a flawless fit.
19. TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox”
2023 also marked the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph and TAG Heuer celebrated big with plenty of commemorative models. One standout model was the TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox,” a contemporary iteration of the vintage reverse panda 2447 NS model. The automatic chronograph gets its nickname from the domed sapphire crystal that tops the 39mm steel case, covering both the tri-compax dial and tachymeter bezel.
20. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
The watch designs that Gerald Genta left behind are some of the most popular and enduring in the luxury watch market. So, it was only a matter of time before IWC revisited its Genta-designed model, the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 from the 1970s. The watchmaker chose 2023 to introduce the reimagined Genta design in the form of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection with three steel models and one in titanium. Controversial pricing aside, the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 is undoubtedly good-looking, featuring —in true Genta fashion — an angular case, screw-punctuated bezel, integrated bracelet, and patterned dial.
21. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
No list of the best watches of 2023 would be complete without an entry from A. Lange & Söhne, and this year, the renowned German watchmaker did not disappoint with the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, now available in a white gold case with a pink-gold dial. Limited to only 100 pieces, this high-complication watch combines a split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, all powered by the beautifully decorated Caliber L101.1 manually wound movement.
22. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Although Jaeger-LeCoultre makes countless variations of the iconic Reverso swivel-case watch, chronograph editions are not that common. So it was refreshing to see the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph join the brand’s catalog this year, offering two ways to wear the timepiece: a dressy time-only dial or a sporty chronograph dial. Available in pink gold or stainless steel, we’re partial to the steel variant with a blue dial and matching blue Casa Fagliano strap.
23. Richard Mille RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal
Sliding into our last spot of the 23 best watches of 2023 is a late-in-the-year release from Richard Mille. Meet the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal, a.k.a. the “Baby Nadal,” now available in black Carbon TPT. Aside from the sleek new colorway, all the remaining characteristics remain including the innovative “butterfly rotor,” which took three years to develop and allows the wearer to disengage automatic winding by pressing the “sport mode” button.
Top Watches of the Year
There you have it; our top picks for the best watches of 2023. From exceedingly expensive high complications and new versions of coveted sports watches to gem-set beauties and affordable pieces, the list illustrates the impressive variety offered by today’s luxury watch landscape. Some common trends we noticed included plenty of vintage reissues, the availability of smaller case sizes, and a touch of welcomed whimsy.
We look forward to seeing what’s in store in 2024. Wishing you and yours a Happy New Year, from all of us here at Luxury Bazaar.
1 Comment
very nice watch