Following up on their recent releases including the new 5811G, 5712/1R, 5990/1A, among many others, Patek Philippe just announced the release of 4 new incredible models expanding their already extensive collection of gem-set watches: the Patek Philippe Gem Set 5271P. However, these 4 new releases are not your typical gem-set watches but rather absolutely insane grails from Patek Philippe that are simply taken to another level through these new gem settings.
A Tradition of Gem Setting
Since the brand’s founding in 1839, Patek Philippe has always used gem-setting as a means to showcase the jewelry prowess of the brand which is easily on par with some of the biggest jewelry houses including Bvlgari, Piaget and Chopard. In true Patek Philippe fashion, they take a much classier approach with diamonds opting to use them as a means of accentuating the overall aesthetic of the watch as opposed to having something gaudy and excessively flashy. Timeless elegance is perhaps the best way to describe Patek Philippe timepieces succinctly and their gem-set watches personify this expression perfectly.
Patek Philippe has also invested more time and consideration into their high jewelry line both with more releases and by recently acquiring a stake in Salanitro SA – one of the most prominent companies in Switzerland when it comes to gem-set watches and jewelry. This has allowed Patek Philippe to gain any necessary skills they didn’t previously have to continue expanding on their existing high jewelry line.
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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5271P
The first new release from Patek Philippe includes two new models of the 5271P one set with baguette-cut blue sapphires and the other set with baguette-cut rubies. The 5270 reference from Patek Philippe is a groundbreaking and important reference within Patek Philippe’s historic and iconic line of perpetual calendar chronographs. It’s the first perpetual calendar chronograph reference with an in-house movement and traces its design DNA from the now beloved 5970 reference, albeit with some slight design changes.
Patek Philippe has been making the 5271P since 2014 with a black dial and using baguette diamonds to accentuate the watch overall. The bezel and lugs feature 58 baguette diamonds totaling 3.63cts and deployment clasp was also set with an additional 22 baguette diamonds totalling 0.97cts. The watch in terms of proportions and its movement is otherwise identical to the 5270.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5271P Sapphire
Fast forward 8 years later and Patek Philippe has now launched 2 new references of the 5271P. The first is the Ref. 5271/11P-010 which features a total of 80 baguette-cut blue sapphires totalling 5.16cts. The watch also features a stunning lacquered blue dial with a black gradient effect at the dial’s edges. The watch measures in at 41mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.7mm giving it absolutely perfect proportions to wear both as an everyday watch or as something to make a statement with at a more formal event.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5271P Ruby
The second is the Ref. 5271/12P-010 which features a total of 80 baguette-cut red rubies totaling 5.25cts. With this reference, Patek Philippe chooses a color-matched red lacquer dial with a black gradient effect at the dial’s edges. This is a daring combination and one Patek Philippe really has never done apart from a rumored piece unique red ruby grand complication of which the details remain well guarded. In terms of case measurements, the watch wears identical in diameter and thickness at 41mm and 12.7mm respectively.
Our Take
Overall these two new releases were beloved and well-received by the watch-collecting community. Posts of this watch on Instagram got 10’s of thousands of likes and it was shared all across social media. These two variants of the 5271P would typically be reserved for custom special orders for royal families and some of the biggest Patek Philippe clients and would otherwise be inaccessible to the general public. In a sense, this is Patek Philippe making their rarest and most collectible watches more available.
But getting one of these watches will be no easy feat. To even be considered, you would need an extensive purchase history with the brand and likely a close relationship to the Stern family directly. That’s without even mentioning the price of these new references which is €328,700. However, considering the incredible watchmaking involved in this watch and the labor intensive and artistic gem-setting process to make these watches come to life, its price is totally justified.
Specifications
Case Diameter: | 41mm |
Case Thickness: | 12.7mm |
Case Metal: | Polished Platinum |
Bracelet Metal: | Black Gloss Alligator Strap with Platinum Deployment Clasp Set 22 baguette-cut rubies or sapphires |
Dial: | Blue or Red Lacquer with Black Gradient Effect at its edges, white gold applied hour indices and white gold hands |
Movement: | CH 29-535 PS Q ⇒ In-House Movement stamped with Patek Philippe’s Seal – 33 Jewels, 456 components |
Power Reserve: | 55-65 hours |
Complications: | Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, chronograph with central chronograph hand, 30-minute chronograph counter, perpetual calendar including day, date month, leap year, moonphase and day-night indicator |
Price: | €328,700 |
You can read more about the release on Patek Philippe’s website.