Five Square Watch Models That Aren’t The Cubitus

Celine Simon Thursday, November 28th, 2024 7 min. read

With all the hysteria around the Patek Philippe Cubitus (good and bad), we thought now would be a good time to have a look at some other square watches. While round designs dominate watchmaking, the appeal of a square watch lies in its bold geometry and distinctive character. Square timepieces, like the Cartier Santos or TAG Heuer Monaco, offer exciting alternatives to more traditional round cases. So, if you’re on board with being square and need to look at something else other than the Cubitus, let’s get a closer look at some top square watches.

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best square watches
Best square watches

More about the Cubitus:
Patek Philippe Cubitus: The First New Men’s Patek Lineup Since 1997

TAG Heuer Monaco

The TAG Heuer Monaco is arguably the most iconic square watch ever made, instantly recognizable for its sharp angles and loud personality. Famously worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans, the Monaco didn’t just break design norms — it smashed barriers as the world’s first automatic square chronograph. Its unconventional square case, left-side crown, and pump-style chronograph pushers are now signature design details of the collection. (And in case you were wondering, the left-side crown was Heuer’s way of showing off its then-new automatic chronograph movement — no daily winding required.)

Square watch: TAG Heuer Monaco
TAG Heuer Monaco with a Gulf livery dial

Over the decades, the collection has grown into a powerhouse lineup of square watches. From the classic blue dial with red accents to Gulf livery editions and futuristic skeletonized takes, the Monaco is available in plenty of flavors. Naturally, regardless of the iterations, the Monaco always retains its unmistakable angular silhouette.

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The OG Square Watch: Cartier Santos

The Santos de Cartier isn’t just a square watch — it’s the original one. Designed in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont (to conveniently wear on his wrist rather than having to fumble with a pocket watch while flying one of his aircraft), the Santos was the first purpose-built wristwatch. It remains a Cartier catalog mainstay. With its square case, visible screws on the bezel, and more often than not, an integrated bracelet, the Santos manages to feel both classic and modern, which is no small feat for a design that is well over a century old.

Square watch: Cartier Santos
A modern version of Cartier’s watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont

Today, the Santos range spans everything from stainless steel GADAs to flashier two-tone models and even avant-garde skeletonized versions. An appealing feature of modern Santos models is the QuickSwitch system, which lets you easily swap between more formal bracelets and casual straps. The Santos remains a must-have for anyone looking to embrace the square watch aesthetic.

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Hermes H08

The Hermes H08 is a square watch with a modern and sporty vibe. Launched in 2021, the H08 watch collection has quickly established itself as a flagship in Hermes’ watch offering thanks to its appealing design and contemporary materials. The case shape features softened square edges, somewhere between a cushion and a square. Available in materials such as titanium, graphene, and ceramic, the H08 combines durability and lightness.

Hermes x Hodinkee H08 square watch

In customary Hermes fashion, the dial is striking, featuring a sector dial design with applied filled Arabic numerals in a radial layout around the edge. While the company offers more pared-down dial shades, it’s the colorful ones that remind us that despite its prestigious reputation, Hermes certainly has a playful side too. One particularly popular version was a sand-colored limited edition made in collaboration with Hodinkee. The Hermès H08 is a versatile option for those looking for a square watch that’s stylish yet unpretentious, and it’s a great choice for anyone who wants something a little outside the norm of go-to watch brands.

Patek Philippe 3587

Released in 1969, the Beta 21 quartz movement was the Swiss industry’s response to the Quartz Crisis, developed by a consortium of Swiss watchmakers including Patek Philippe. The movements were somewhat large and bulky, meaning that the cases that housed them had to be as well. 6,000 Beta 21 movements were made and shared across brands like Patek, Rolex, Piaget, and others.

Patek Philippe Beta 21 watches in white and yellow gold
Patek Philippe Beta 21 watches in white and yellow gold

Patek’s first Beta 21 watch was the reference 3587, which sports a massive 43mm case. The case isn’t strictly square; its rounded corners tread on cushion territory but to me, it’s square (ish) in spirit. Even more appealing than its silhouette is the case’s material — solid 18k gold, either yellow or white. Plus, there’s the crazy “Swiss Cheese” style integrated bracelet, also fashioned from 18k gold. The whole package is unapologetically 1970s, and the design is a far cry from the restrained elegance we’ve come to expect from Patek.

Although quartz watches are often disregarded today by watch collectors, the Beta 21 holds a special place in horological history. And for those who want an unconventional vintage square watch with some serious pedigree, the Patek Philippe Beta 21 ref. 3587 is one hell of an option.

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More about 1960s and 1970s gold watches:
All About the Audemars Piguet Cobra, Genta’s Other AP Design
Rolex Quartz Watches: The Complete Guide

Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar

The Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is as bold as it gets in the world of square watches. Debuting in 2006 and limited to just 28 pieces in rose gold and 28 in white gold, this isn’t a watch often seen out in the wild. Like most Roger Dubuis creations, it’s all about making a statement.

White gold Roger Dubuis Golden Square watch
White gold Roger Dubuis Golden Square watch

The 40mm x 40mm square case may sound tame on paper, but its cambered profile and thick bezel give it some serious wrist presence. Par for the course for perpetual calendars, the dial is packed with displays: day and month windows at 12 o’clock, a moonphase between 7 and 8 o’clock, and a pointer date display arched from 4 to 5 o’clock. There’s also a green and blue leap year indicator nestled at 3 o’clock, and it wouldn’t be a Roger Dubuis watch without the highly stylized prominent Roman numerals.

If you’re looking for an in-your-face square watch with an impressive complication, then the Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is certainly one to consider.

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Finding the Right Square Watch

Square watches aren’t just about their distinct aesthetics; they offer a completely different wearing experience compared to round watches. The angular shape can feel larger on the wrist, so finding the right fit is key.

Square Cartier Tank Obus
A square Cartier Tank Obus watch

When trying on a square watch, pay close attention to how the corners sit on your wrist. On-paper dimensions can be deceiving — a smaller square case can appear more prominent than a round one with the same dimensions. Keep that in mind when you’re shopping for your future square watch.

Other Watch Guides:
Best-Left-Handed-Watches
The Best Yellow Gold Rolex Watches
The Rebirth of the Men’s Dress Watch
The Best Under $5000 Luxury Watches To Consider

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