The Ultimate Guide to Building a $25k Luxury Watch Collection

If you’re building a watch collection and aren’t sure which direction to take, you may have heard the phrase “buy what you like” once or twice. It’s an oft-repeated phrase in the luxury watch world, and rightly so, but the luxury watch market is vast and ever-evolving. Plus, cost is an unavoidable consideration, so it can be helpful to be aware of numerous options and their true market values. That’s what we’ll aim to help with in this guide to building a $25k watch collection.

In this arbitrary hypothetical money-spending exercise, we’ll be describing five different $25k three-watch collections, with two options for each of the three spots in each collection. That’s a total of 30 watches from 17 of the world’s top luxury watch brands. And while you shouldn’t take these collection suggestions too literally, this should give you a solid picture of what’s available on today’s luxury watch market at this level.

$25k Watch Collection for Big Wrists

We’ll start by discussing a collection aimed at large-wristed collectors, and then show you some very different collection options.

Centerpiece of a Big-Wristed $25k Watch Collection: AP Diver or Two-Tone Rolex Sky-Dweller (~$18.5k)

With a 42mm diameter and a thickness of about 14mm, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver–or AP Diver for short–isn’t an overly massive watch. But it has more presence than those figures suggest, with a substantial lug-to-lug measurement (almost 54mm) that makes it a perfect everyday watch for a large-wristed collector.

The 15720ST generation, which debuted in 2021, has a handy quick-release strap function, but those tend to cost closer to $30,000. The first-generation (15703ST) and second-generation (15710ST) AP Divers are a relative bargain in the Audemars Piguet world, with some colorways available comfortably under $20,000. Spinning the inner bezel with the rubber-clad 10 o’clock crown is quite satisfying.

Another perfect everyday watch for big-wristed enthusiasts is a two-tone Rolex Sky-Dweller. Like the AP Diver, it’s 42mm in diameter but appears much larger in person. The Sky-Dweller is a big watch. And with the steel versions still selling over MSRP, the secondhand premium for a two-tone version is small–and I think it makes sense to consider it.

The current generation of two-tone Sky-Dweller, ref. 336933, sells for right around its MSRP ($21,850 on an Oyster bracelet and $22,650 on Jubilee). But aside from a slight 2023 movement update that included a new skeletonized rotor, it’s basically the same as the previous generation (ref. 326933) which can be found for about $4,000 less.

The Sky-Dweller is the only annual calendar Rolex has ever made, and it’s definitely the most intuitive annual calendar on the market. While most annual calendars require extra buttons on the case to set the month etc., Rolex does it all with the crown, in combination with the Ring Command Bezel. It would be a worthy cornerstone of any $25k watch collection.

Rolex Sky-Dweller 326933 and AP Diver 15710ST Specs

	Rolex Sky-Dweller	AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver
Reference Number	326933	15710ST
Years Produced	2017-2023	2015-2021
Case Material	Oystersteel & 18k yellow gold	Stainless Steel
Case Width	42mm	42mm
Case Thickness	14mm	14mm
Lug-to-Lug	51mm	53.7mm
Water Resistance	100m	300m
Movement Caliber	Rolex 9001 automatic	AP Calibre 3120 automatic
Power Reserve	~72 hours	~60 hours
Bracelet/Strap	Two-tone Oyster or Jubilee bracelet	Rubber strap with tang buckle
Market Value (2025)	~$18,500	~$18,500-$37,500 (depending on dial color)

For a Secondary Watch in a Big Man’s $25k Watch Collection: Panerai PAM00088 or Cartier Santos 100 XL (~$4.5K)

Panerai is a classic choice for large-wristed watch enthusiasts, so it’s not controversial to include an entry-level Panerai in this theoretical $25k watch collection. Numerous Panerais are available pre-owned in the $5k ballpark, and there’s no “wrong” choice. But I will humbly suggest the PAM00088 (or “PAM 88”), a 44mm Luminor GMT model that debuted in 2001. Part of what makes Panerais feel so “big” is their wide straps (24mm in this case), and swapping on various custom straps is definitely a popular pastime among Panerai fans.

The PAM 88 is powered by the ETA 7750-based Panerai caliber OP VIII movement, which isn’t overly fancy but is certainly reliable. This was made long before the Panerai in-house movement controversies. Plus I just think this model has really cool hands–and you’re basically getting the GMT function for the same price as some time-only models. And of course you’re getting the massive signature crescent crown guard present on all Luminor models.

Another classic “big guy” choice would be the unapologetically large Cartier Santos 100 XL. It was made from about 2004-2016, which was basically the heyday for huge watches, so that makes sense. While a 38mm diameter may not sound huge, well, it is. Square watches wear way bigger than round ones of the same width. The 11mm thickness is reasonable, but the 51mm lug-to-lug measurement seems more indicative of this watch’s true size.

With pre-owned examples of ref. 2656 available under $5k, the stainless steel Cartier Santos 100XL is an entry-level Cartier that would make a great part of a big-wristed $25k watch collection. And unlike the Panerai, it features a folding (deployant) clasp.

Cartier Santos 2656 and Panerai Luminor PAM 88 Specs

	Cartier Santos 100 XL	Panerai Luminor GMT
Reference Number	2656	PAM00088
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Case Width	38mm	44mm
Case Thickness	10.34mm	16.5mm
Lug-to-Lug	51mm md-watches+1	Blank
Water Resistance	100m	300m
Movement Caliber	Cartier 049 Automatic	Panerai OP VIII Automatic
Power Reserve	~48 hours	~42 hours
Bracelet/Strap	Leather strap with deployant clasp	Leather strap with tang buckle
Years Produced	2004-2016	2001-2016
Market Value (2025)	~$4,500	~$4,500

Big Quartz “Beater”: Breitling Endurance Pro 44 or TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph CAZ1014 (~$2k)

It’s nice to have a quartz beater in any collection, but large luxury quartz watches can be relatively hard to find. And when you do find them, they’re usually chronographs. The Breitling Endurance Pro 44 is the first example that comes to mind for me, with its startingly light weight of 66.13g (including the strap). That’s less than half the weight of a modern Rolex Submariner, for context, and it’s largely thanks to the proprietary and underappreciated ultra-light Breitlight composite that debuted in 2016. Breitlight is 70% lighter than steel. With two other chunky watches in your $25k watch collection, a lightweight option might be nice.

The Breitling Endurance Pro 44 uses the Breitling Caliber 82, which is a COSC-certified and thermo-compensated SuperQuartz chronograph movement based on the ETA Thermoline quartz platform, with Breitling-specific finishing. The Breitling 82 SuperQuartz movement is chronometer-certified, which for a quartz watch means it runs within ±0.07 seconds per day.

The Endurance Pro 44 has been released with rubber straps in various colors, which match the rehaut and crown. Most colorways can be found for just over $2,000, although some special editions like the Stanford University and Michigan University versions go for closer to $3,000. Any variant would make a worthy “beater” in a large-wristed $25k watch collection.

For another relatively affordable quartz watch, albeit one with a less prestigious movement, you could consider a TAG Heuer. TAG Heuer has been making some aesthetic improvements to their lineup recently, and the 43mm Formula 1 Chronograph ref. CAZ1014.FT8028 is an example of that. It uses the humble Ronda 5040.D quartz chronograph movement found in much cheaper watches, as well as older TAG Heuer CAZ10 references. But in my opinion the CAZ1014 simply looks better than the previous versions; the proportions and bezel fonts all work well together, whereas some older Formula 1’s look pretty outdated now.

Breitling Endurance Pro 44 and TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph CAZ1014.FT8028 Specs

	Breitling Endurance Pro 44	TAG Heuer F1 Chronograph CAZ1014.FT8028
Model Name	Endurance Pro	Formula 1 Chronograph
Reference Number	X82310	CAZ1014.BA0842 (bracelet) CAZ1014.FT8028 (rubber) CAZ1014.FC8196 (NATO)
Case Material	Breitlight (proprietary composite)	Stainless Steel
Case Width	44mm	43mm
Case Thickness	12.5mm	12mm
Lug-to-Lug	52.49mm	48.4mm
Water Resistance	100m	200m
Movement Caliber	Breitling 82 (SuperQuartz chronograph)	Ronda 5040.D (Quartz chronograph)
Battery Life	~2-3 years	~2 years
Bracelet/Strap	Rubber strap (various colors, matches rehaut/crown)	Orange rubber strap, tri-color NATO strap or three-link steel bracelet
Market Value (2025)	~$2,200	~$1,500

Pure Class

If you spend much time reading about watches on the internet, you’ve probably seen people use the term “pure class” with varying degrees of irony while describing tasteful and attractive watches. Here we’ve assembled some options for building a “pure class”-focused $25k watch collection.

Cornerstone of a Classy $25k Watch Collection: Breguet Classique or H. Moser Pioneer (~$13k)

H. Moser & Cie is one of the hottest independent luxury brands among watch nerds these days, and while some of their more complicated watches sell for six figures, their entry-level time-only offerings are surprisingly close in price to the likes of Rolex and Omega.

Pre-owned Pioneer Centre Seconds models in particular can be found fairly easily around the $13,000 price point (give or take a bit depending on colorway). And they can definitely be described as “pure class.” My personal favorite is the Blue Lagoon, with Moser’s distinctive Globolight hands.

Globolight is a proprietary SuperLuminova-infused ceramic composite, so the lume isn’t painted on. The Globolight inserts have the lume in them, and the way they extend beyond the metal portion of the hands is definitely striking.

Although the current reborn iteration of H. Moser & Cie is widely viewed as a “modern” brand, the roots of the original company go back to 1828. For a similarly priced alternative from a truly historic brand, though, we can look at Breguet, a brand founded in 1775 and today owned by Swatch Group. Breguet is mostly known for making exquisitely-finished traditional dress watches with guilloché and enamel dials. Numerous Breguet Classique models would serve well as the cornerstone of an ultra-classy $25k watch collection.

I would suggest ref. 5140BB in particular, made from 2006-2016 with an understated 40mm white gold case and an ultra-slim (2.4mm) automatic movement. In total the 5140BB is just over 10mm thick, though, which some collectors found disappointingly thick given the thin movement and solid caseback. You can find a 5140BB for about $13,000 pre-owned, or you can splurge a bit more for the 7147BB that replaced it in 2016, with a significantly slimmer height of 6.1mm. You can see our Breguet price guide for more Breguet options in this price range.

Specification	H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds 3200	Breguet Classique 5140
Reference Number	3200-1200 (Midnight Blue fumé) 3200-1217 (Arctic Blue fumé) 3200-0902 (Grey Fumé dial) etc.	5140BA/29/9W6 (Yellow gold, white enamel dial) 5140BA/12/9W6 (Yellow gold, silver guilloché dial) 5140BB/29/9W6 (White gold, white enamel dial) 5140BB/12/9W6 (White gold, silver guilloché dial)
Case Material	Stainless Steel or rose gold	18k white or yellow gold
Case Dimensions	42.8mm width 11.3mm thick	40mm width 10.8mm thick
Movement Caliber	HMC 200 (Automatic)	Breguet 502.3SD (Automatic)
Power Reserve	72 hours	~45 hours
Water Resistance	120m	30m
Bracelet/Strap	Rubber or leather strap	Leather strap
Crystal	Sapphire	Sapphire
Dial	Various	White enamel or silver guilloché
Years Produced	2015+	~2006+
Market Price (2025)	~$13,000 (most colorways)	~$13,000

JLC Reverso or Cartier Tank Americaine ($6k)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is pretty much the textbook definition of “pure class.” Although one might think it’s a “sports watch” because of the legendary backstory that the Reverso was “designed for polo players,” I defy anyone to produce a photograph of any polo player wearing one, aside from perhaps JLC ambassador Clare Milford Haven. The Reverso is a true dress watch, through and through.

The Reverso’s case famously flips horizontally to reveal a solid metal back–often tastefully engraved. More complicated Duoface models exist, which have an additional dial on the back side, plus there are the hyper-expensive Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque and Quadriptyque models. But you can’t go wrong with a classic Monoface model like the Reverso Grande Taille ref. Q2708410 (270.8.62 is the legacy reference number), which was made from about 1992-2016.

With a 26 x 42mm stainless steel rotating case, the manual-wind caliber 822, a silver dial with small seconds, and a blank steel reverse side that makes an excellent clean slate for engraving, the Q2708410 would be right at home in a classy $25k watch collection.

If you like the classy rectangular look but the Reverso just isn’t for you, consider the Cartier Tank Américaine Large in stainless steel. To me, the brancards (the “poles” that constitute the sides of the case) look excellent in this size, and overall the proportions are just right.

At 26.6mm, the large Tank Americaine is only slightly wider than the JLC, but it’s significantly taller (45.1mm vs. 42mm). It’s also manual-wind. The unusual 18.5mm lug width means you’re basically stuck with either proprietary or bespoke straps, but the alligator leather strap it comes with is nice.

JLC Reverso Monoface and Cartier Tank Americaine Large Specs

Specification	JLC Reverso Q2708410	Cartier Tank Américaine WSTA0018
Reference Number	Q2708410	WSTA0018
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions	42mm x 26mm 10mm thick	45.1mm x 26.6mm 9.65mm thick
Movement Caliber	JLC caliber 822 (Manual-wind)	Cartier caliber 1847 MC (Automatic)
Power Reserve	~45 hours	~40 hours
Water Resistance	30m	30m
Bracelet/Strap	Alligator leather strap	Alligator leather strap
Crystal	Sapphire	Sapphire
Dial	Silver, Arabic numerals	Silver, Roman numerals
Years Produced	2002-2016	2017+
Market Price (2025)	~$6,000	~$6,000

For a “Pure Class” Sports Watch: Rolex Explorer 114270 or Grand Seiko SBGE283 (~$6k)

Even an understated and tasteful $25k watch collection needs a GADA watch for stress-free everyday wear. The Rolex Explorer 36 is a classic if somewhat obvious choice, and the previous generation model (ref. 114270) can easily be found for $6k in excellent condition.

The Easy-Link clasp is great for a quick on-the-go bracelet expansion of 5mm, and the trusty caliber 3130 movement inside will outlast us all if properly maintained. Although it has a power reserve of only 48 hours (compared to the 70 hours of the 3230), it lacks the amplitude issues that the newer caliber is notorious for.

Grand Seiko is a brand that isn’t afraid to go head-to-head with Rolex, and $6k is a good sweet spot for the brand. Almost all but the newest, fanciest and most-hyped models can be found pre-owned for that price or less. Just about any Grand Seiko would be at home in a classy $25k watch collection, and I feel like if you’re going to own one Grand Seiko, why not go for a Spring Drive?

The first Spring Drive movement debuted in 1999, and Seiko is still the only company capable of making wristwatch hands that move completely smoothly (although the Bulova Precisionist is close). Instead of a traditional escapement inside, which regulates the release of energy by locking and unlocking the escape wheel, there’s a “glide wheel.”

Spring Drive movements use an electromagnetic braking system with an integrated circuit that compares the speed of the glide wheel to the precise reference from a quartz oscillator, then intermittently applies a magnetic field to slow the glide wheel whenever it spins too quickly. Despite the electronic technology involved, there are no batteries or capacitors–all the energy is physically stored in the mainspring as on a traditional mechanical watch. The timekeeping, however–±15 seconds per month–is much better than a typical mechanical.

Grand Seiko has released innumerable Spring Drive GMT models, and there’s no bad choice among them. But I will mention ref. SBGE283 as a particularly worthy choice. Although it clearly takes some inspiration from the Rolex Explorer II, it’s far from an “homage.” Its 41mm case and three-link bracelet are made of high intensity titanium, which is strong, lightweight, and comparable to grade 5 titanium. And although there are numerous popular Grand Seiko dial textures, its simple black dial minimizes flashiness and lets the legendary Grand Seiko finishing take center stage.

Rolex Explorer 114270 and Grand Seiko SBGE283 Specs

Specification	Rolex Explorer 114270	Grand Seiko SBGE283
Reference Number	114270	SBGE283
Case Material	Stainless Steel (904L Oystersteel)	High-intensity Titanium
Case Dimensions	36mm width 11mm thick 44mm lug-to-lug	41mm width 13.9mm thick 48.3mm lug-to-lug
Movement Caliber	Rolex Caliber 3130 (Automatic)	Grand Seiko 9R66 Spring Drive GMT
Power Reserve	~48 hours	~72 hours
Water Resistance	100m	100m (10 bar)
Bracelet/Strap	Stainless steel Oyster bracelet	High-intensity titanium bracelet
Crystal	Sapphire	Sapphire (box-shaped, AR-coated)
Dial	Black, luminous hands/indices, Arabic 3-6-9	Black, LumiBrite, power reserve indicator
Features	Hours, minutes, seconds	Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, power reserve
Years Produced	2001–2010	2022+
Market Price (2025)	~$6,000	~$6,000

Building a $25k Watch Collection of Stainless Steel Icons

Now I’ll stop overthinking it a bit and show you some obvious options (or “iconic” if you prefer) for a stainless steel $25k watch collection that probably won’t shock any seasoned watch enthusiasts.

Rolex Steel Sports Watch: 116710BLNR or 126610LN (~$14k)

The Rolex waitlist isn’t as brutal as it used to be, as an increasing number of collectors are reportedly getting their desired watches with shorter wait times. But the most sought-after “blue chip” steel sports models can still be frustrating to get from an authorized dealer.

Any new stainless steel GMT-Master II will be particularly hard to get without being lucky/patient or paying way over retail. So that’s why I recommend considering the previous-generation “Rolex Batman GMT,” ref. 116710BLNR, which is readily available secondhand for about $14,000, and without the aforementioned amplitude issues of 3200 series Rolex movements (although many collectors feel it’s nothing to worry about).

That same price will also get you a like-new Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN from a grey market dealer. A Submariner Date was my first expensive watch, and it really is a perfect gateway drug to the luxury watch world. It’s a great mainstay in a $25k collection but it’s also a great one-watch collection on its own.

The Rolex Submariner’s thickness, at only 12.5mm, is one of its most underrated assets. Almost all other popular dive watches are thicker. Plus, the beloved Glidelock clasp allows for on-the-fly size adjustments of 1mm to dial in the comfort. It’s true that you’ll probably see lots of Rolex Submariners around–but it’s one of the most popular Rolex watches for a reason.

Rolex 116710BLNR and 126610LN Specs

Spec	First-Generation Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” 116710BLNR	Rolex Submariner Date (Current)
Reference Number	116710BLNR	126610LN
Case Material	Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel)	Oystersteel (Stainless Steel)
Case Dimensions	40mm width 12mm thickness 48mm lug to lug	41 mm width 12.5 mm thickness 48 mm lug to lug
Movement Caliber	3186	3235
Power Reserve	~48 hours	~70 hours
Water Resistance	100m	300m
Bracelet/Strap	Oyster bracelet with Easy-Link clasp	Oyster bracelet with Glidelock clasp
Market Price (Used)	~$14,000	~$14,000

An Iconic Chronograph for a $25k Watch Collection: Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich or Zenith Chronomaster Tricolor (~$7k)

It makes sense to have a chronograph in a $25k collection of three steel watches, and an Omega Speedmaster Professional would be a very uncontroversial choice among enthusiasts at the $7k price point. Omega still offers the classic Moonwatch with a hesalite crystal, which watch geeks often praise for its charming “warmth.” Personally I would learn towards the “Sapphire Sandwich” version, with both a sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback showing off the Master Chronometer caliber 3861 movement inside.

The current Sapphire Sandwich should be attainable for $7k on a bracelet (310.30.42.50.01.002), or slightly less on a leather strap (310.32.42.50.01.002). “The first watch worn on the moon” is engraved on the caseback, just in case you forgot the Omega Speedmaster Professional was the first watch worn on the moon.

Zenith El Primero chronographs are also notable in the world of wristwatch firsts. In 1969, the El Primero became the first automatic chronograph with a truly integrated chronograph movement–meaning it wasn’t just a base movement with a chronograph module added on. Today, looking at the Zenith lineup you might get overwhelmed by the number of El Primero chronograph options, but we suggest the classic “tricolor” dial that has been around since the beginning. The overlapping silver/slate/blue subdials contrast perfectly with the red chrono seconds hand.

No matter what colorway you choose, though, we’d recommend choosing a model with the solid and reliable El Primero 400 movement. Zenith also offers some chronographs with a central chronograph hand that rotates fully every second, thus demarking elapsed time to the 1/100th of a second! The El Primero 9004 movement, which has a dedicated 50 Hz escapement to enable the 1/100th second chronograph function, is badass in theory. But there are a growing number of posts online with titles like “5 issues in 3 years with no end in sight” regarding the 1/100th-of-a-second Zeniths. Plus I was never a fan of the subdial design–all three registers go to 60, which seems suboptimal for intuitive legibility.

Anyway, on the classic Zenith Chronomaster, reading the chronograph minutes counter from 11-22 might get a bit murky because of the subdial overlap, but other than that it’s a clean and classic three-register layout. A tricolor version should be attainable for just under $7k on a stainless steel bracelet (03.2040.400/69.M2040), or about $6k on a leather strap (03.2040.400/69.C494).

Zenith Chronomaster Tricolor and Omega Speedy Sapphire Sandwich Specs

Spec	Zenith 03.2040.400/69	Omega 310.3x.42.50.01.002
Model Name	Chronomaster El Primero	Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional “Sapphire Sandwich”
Reference Number	03.2040.400/69.M2040 (Bracelet) 03.2040.400/69.C494 (Strap)	310.30.42.50.01.002 (Bracelet) 310.32.42.50.01.002 (Strap)
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions	42 mm width, 12.75 mm thick, ~50.8 mm lug-to-lug	42 mm width, 13.0 mm thick, 47.2 mm lug-to-lug
Movement Caliber	El Primero 400 B	Omega 3861 (Manual)
Power Reserve	~50 hours	~50 hours
Water Resistance	100 m	50 m
Bracelet/Strap	Steel bracelet or gator/croc strap	Steel bracelet or nylon strap
Market Price (2025)	~$6,100 (add $500 for bracelet)	~$6,500 (add $500 for bracelet)

Iconic Beaters for a $25k Watch Collection: Breitling Navitimer A23322 or Cartier Tank Must XL ($4k)

Breitling and Cartier are two brands that offer a lot of value in the pre-owned market around the $4k price point. Numerous classic Breitling Superocean, Chronomat and Avenger models are attainable at that level, but so is a two-generations-ago steel Navitimer (ref. A23322) with an ETA 7750-based movement.

The Breitling Navitimer is arguably the brand’s most recognizable model, with its prominent rotating slide rule bezel. The A23322 was produced from about 2003-2010 and was offered with white, blue, panda (white with black subdials) or reverse panda dials. Arabic numeral hour markers and simple stick markers were both options. And while some Navitimers are massive, this model has a reasonable 41.8mm diameter.

If you want something a bit more understated as the $4k “beater” in your $25k steel watch collection, it makes sense to look at Cartier. And you don’t need to settle for quartz at this price range, either. We recommend considering the Cartier Tank Must XL ref. WSTA0053, an automatic model that launched in 2021 as part of Cartier’s expanded Tank Must lineup, replacing the outgoing Tank Solo XL models.

The WSTA0053 comes on an H-link stainless steel bracelet and sports the classic silver Tank dial layout with black Roman numerals and blued hands. Its 8.4mm case height is very slim for an automatic, and the 6 o’clock placement of the date window maintains the symmetry.

Breitling Navitimer A23322 and Cartier Tank Must XL WSTA0053 Specs

	Breitling Navitimer	Cartier Tank Must XL
Reference Number	A23322	WSTA0053
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Case Dimensions	41.8mm width 14.6mm thick 48mm lug-to-lug	31mm width 8.4mm thick 41mm lug-to-lug
Movement Caliber	Breitling 23 (Automatic, ETA 7753 base)	Cartier 1847 MC (Automatic)
Power Reserve	~42 hours	~40 hours
Water Resistance	30m	30m
Bracelet/Strap	Steel bracelet or leather strap	Steel bracelet
Years Produced	2003-2010	2021+
Market Price (2025)	~$4,000	~$4,000

$25k Watch Collection for Complication Lovers

For many old-school watch collectors, mechanical watches are all about the complications. Finding complicated watches on a budget can be tough, even if the budget for your watch collection is $25k. Here are some savvy options to consider.

For a Perpetual Calendar: Blancpain 5395 or IWC Novocento IW3545 (~$10k)

Blancpain and IWC are probably the two brands I would recommend most to anyone look for an interesting complicated watch in the $10k range. Pre-owned IWC perpetual calendars are often some of the most affordable on the market, but it’s not because their movements are subpar.

Quite the contrary–IWC is well-known for using quality movements with perpetual calendar modules based on Kurt Klaus‘s button-free design (meaning all of the complications are controlled via the crown).

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The attractive IW3545 Novocento, made from 1987-1995, sports a rectangular case and an attractive white enamel dial. Most perpetual calendars have a “1 through 4” indicator, showing whether or not the current year is a leap year. Instead, the Novocento actually displays the last two digits of the current year.

For a different perpetual calendar moonphase watch with a white enamel dial in the same price range, you could consider the Blancpain 5395. But unlike the IWC Novocento, it doesn’t visually indicate the year at all. It will properly adjust the date every February 29, no problem–you just have to have faith that your watchmaker set it properly. It allows the dial to be less cluttered, though.

The 33.5mm width of the 5395 is small by some standards, but it’s perfectly “unisex” in my book. It’s such an understated, classy vibe that I would personally go for the steel version. Steel, yellow gold, and two-tone versions can all be found for around $10k, but keep in mind that the full gold version with a full gold Gay Frères bracelet is a $25k watch collection all by itself. There’s a reason the 5395 is considered one of the “six masterpieces” that revitalized Blancpain after the Quartz Crisis.

Perpetual Calendar Specs: Blancpain 5395 vs. IWC Novocento IW3545

	Blancpain 5395 Villeret Perpetual Calendar	IWC Novocento IW3545 Perpetual Calendar
Reference Number(s)	5395-1127-A58 (steel, strap) 5395-1127-58 (steel, bracelet) 5395-1418-A58 (yellow gold, strap) 5395-1418-58 (yellow gold, bracelet) 5395-1318-25 (two-tone, bracelet)	IW3545
Years Produced	1986–late 1990s (main 1988–1997)	1987–1995
Case Material(s)	18k yellow gold, stainless steel, two-tone	18k yellow gold, platinum
Case Diameter	34mm	27mm
Case Thickness	8.6mm	8.7mm
Case Lug-to-Lug	38mm	40.5mm
Movement Caliber	Blancpain cal. 95 + perpetual module	IWC 32062 (F. Piguet base, automatic)
Power Reserve	40 hours	42 hours
Water Resistance	30m	30m
Bracelet/Strap	Leather/alligator or Gay Frères metal bracelets	Leather/crocodile
Market Price (2025)	~$25,000 YG w/bracelet ~$10,000 all others	~$10,000 gold ~$15,000 platinum

The Quirky Complicated Watch in a $25k Collection: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chrono or Breguet Classique 5207 (~$11k)

At just north of $10k, a whole world of interesting and exotic used watches becomes available. I think the Blancpain brand and the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in particular are overlooked by most watch enthusiasts. Secondhand, you can get a ceramic Bathyscaphe for roughly the same price as a steel one.

So even a ceramic flyback chronograph version can be found for about $11k–roughly the list price of a simple steel Rolex Submariner. I’m a Rolex fan, but there’s no denying that you’re getting better movement finishing for your buck with Blancpain here. If you don’t mind the 43.6mm diameter, it’s a great watch to consider in a $25k watch collection. For this exercise we’ll stick with a NATO or sailcloth strap, as the ceramic bracelet option roughly doubles the cost!

For a complicated watch in the same price range with a less sporty look (a lot less sporty), Breguet is a brand that is definitely worth a look. Breguet has made all sorts of perpetual calendars and moonphases over the years, but I think 5207 is a particularly fun reference.

An oversized power reserve indicator spans much of the top half of the 5207’s dial, while a retrograde seconds hand fills the bottom half. I find it oddly satisfying to watch retrograde hands “snap” back to the beginning of their trajectory.

Plus there’s the excellent guilloché dial work and coin-edge case texture that Breguet is known for, and an exhibition caseback to view the lovely 516DRSR movement inside. With a 39mm diameter and a case height just under 10mm, the Breguet 5207 is a very wearable size.

Breguet Classique 5207 and Ceramic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chrono Specs

	Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph 5200-0130	Breguet Classique Retrograde Seconds 5207
Reference Number(s)	5200-0130-B52A	5207BA/12/9V6 (yellow gold) 5207BB/12/9V6 (white gold)
Years Produced	5200-0130-B52A (sailcloth) 5200-0130-NABA (NATO) 5200-0130-01S (ceramic bracelet)	2005-2022
Case Material(s)	Black ceramic	18k yellow or white gold
Case Diameter	43.6mm	39mm
Case Thickness	15.25mm	9.85mm
Movement Caliber	Blancpain F385 (Automatic flyback)	Breguet 516DRSR (Automatic)
Power Reserve	50 hours	~65 hours
Water Resistance	300m	30m
Bracelet/Strap	Sailcloth, NATO, or ceramic bracelet	Leather strap
Market Price (2025)	~$11,000 (add $10,000 for ceramic bracelet)	~$11,000

For Something Tough: Tudor Black Bay Pro or Breitling Emergency Mission (~$4k)

If your $25k watch collection is focused on relatively delicate complicated models, you might want a tough steel option to round out your watch roll. I’ll go over two very different choices with very different complications in the $4k range. For a durable stainless steel watch with a GMT complication, the Tudor Black Bay Pro is a natural choice.

The Black Bay Pro is offered with either a black or opaline (silvery-white) dial, on either a three-link steel bracelet or a hybrid rubber/leather strap. The bracelet version has Tudor’s T-Fit micro-adjust clasp which allows for up to 8mm of on-the-go size adjustment (in 2mm increments).

The Snowflake hands, yellow accents, Rolex Explorer II vibes, and approachable 39mm diameter all work well together on the Tudor Black Bay Pro, although some have found its 14.6mm thickness more slab-like than they’d like. I find it perfectly wearable, but if you find it too big, you definitely won’t like my next suggestion, which clocks in at 19.2mm thick.

If you’re willing to consider neo-vintage options, Breitling has numerous tough, chunky watches in the $4k range and under. The Breitling Emergency first appeared in 1995 as an interesting watch designed for adventurers (in most cases, pilots) who just might need to activate a distress beacon and get rescued someday. The built-in FM locator beacon, which gets activated when you unscrew the giant crown at 4 o’clock and pull out the antenna within, can broadcast for up to 48 hours on a full battery. The newer and much larger Emergency II, which debuted in 2015, can only broadcast for about 18 hours because it uses much more precise (and energy-intensive) satellite-based technology.

But from 2003-2010, overlapping the second half of the first Emergency’s run, there was also the oft-overlooked Breitling Emergency Mission. The Emergency and Emergency II both have dual LED displays for stopwatch functions etc. but the Emergency Mission has an entirely analog display. It looks like a fairly typical three-register chronograph, with a date window at 4:30 and a prominent 60-minute rotating bezel. The concentric-ring dial texture of the Emergency Mission is a nice touch.

Ref. A73322 replaced A73321 in 2007, but there were no changes aside from minor cosmetic adjustments (like silver-tone hour markers instead of gold). Either reference of the Breitling Emergency Mission should be attainable for $4k on a bracelet.

Inside is the SuperQuartz Breitling 73 chronograph movement which, as you may have guessed by the subdial layout, is based on an ETA Thermoline movement. Its hybrid mecha-quartz architecture means it has a mechanical chronograph module added onto a quartz base movement, and its chronometer status means it runs within ±0.07 seconds per day at typical temperatures. Even if you never need to use the distress beacon on the Emergency Mission, and hopefully you don’t, it can be a worthwhile part of a $25k watch collection.

	Breitling Emergency Mission (A73321/A73322)	Tudor Black Bay Pro
Reference Number(s)	A73321, A73322	M79470-0004
Years Produced	2003–2008	2022–present
Case Material	Stainless steel	Stainless steel
Case Diameter	45mm	39mm
Case Thickness	19.2mm	14.6mm
Case Lug-to-Lug	58mm	47mm
Movement Caliber	Breitling 73 (SuperQuartz, chronograph)	MT5652 (automatic GMT)
Power Reserve	2–3 years (battery life)	70 hours
Water Resistance	100m	200m
Bracelet/Strap	Professional steel bracelet	Three-link steel bracelet with T-Fit clasp or leather-rubber hybrid strap
Market Price (2025)	~$3,500 (add $500 for bracelet)	~$3,500 (add $400 for bracelet)

A $25k Watch Collection for Women

While men’s luxury watches tend to dominate online discussion, they don’t outsell ladies’ watches as much as some people think. We would be remiss to ignore the women that love watches, so we’ve put together a couple of $25k watch collection suggestions that include both hyped and under-hyped models. One of the upsides of collecting ladies’ watches is that smaller watches are often far more affordable than men’s equivalents.

Statement Piece – Royal Oak Offshore Lady or Serpenti Tubogas Two-Tone (~$13k)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Lady 77151ST was produced from 1996 to 2005. Only 276 pieces were made across all dial colors (black, burgundy, orange, green and purple) during this period, making it quite rare. And although you would expect to pay a huge premium for brightly colored rare men’s AP models, the 77151ST can be found for under $15,000.

Any color of the 77151ST would make a sporty and unique cornerstone in a lady’s $25k watch collection, and it has an automatic movement unlike some quartz Lady Offshores.

If you’re looking for a more elegant and feminine “statement piece” in your $25k watch collection, though, you could consider something completely different, like a Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas.

Tubogas involves wrapping thin, profiled metal strips (usually gold or steel in jewelry) tightly around a core (historically copper or wood), with the edges interlocking so the tube holds together without any soldering. After construction, the core is either dissolved or removed, leaving behind a hollow, flexible, articulated tube that is both strong and comfortable. This technique was originally used for protective coverings on pressurized gas pipes, and Bulgari adapted it in the late 1940s for jewelry purposes (and gave it the name “Tubogas”). That’s how the coiled “tail” of the Serpenti snake is made, and the Serpenti has been a cornerstone of Bulgari’s collection ever since. Serpenti jewelry seems to be a favorite among celebrities like Charlize Theron, Naomi Watts, and Lisa from BLACKPINK.

You can grab a nice steel ladies’ Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas starting at about $7,000, and depending on the amount of coils, diamonds, and gold content you want, the sky is pretty much the limit from there. $13,000 should be enough to get you a two-tone quartz-powered variant with a diamond bezel and a single coil, namely ref. 102098.

Produced from about 2017-2024, the Serpenti Tubogas 102098 is powered by a simple time-only ETA quartz movement. If that’s a dealbreaker for you, a new small automatic ladies’ movement (caliber BVS100) was among the 2025 Bulgari releases, so that will likely be phased in across the Serpenti lineup soon.

AP ROO Lady 77151ST and Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas 102098 Specs

	AP Royal Oak Offshore Lady (Auto)	Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Two-Tone Black Diamond (Single Coil)
Reference Number	77151ST	102098
Case Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel & Pink Gold
Case Width	30mm	35mm
Movement Caliber	AP Caliber 2140 Automatic	Bulgari Caliber B033 (Quartz)
Power Reserve	~40 hours	Battery (Quartz)
Bracelet/Strap	Integrated leather strap	Tubogas two-tone bracelet
Dial Colors	Black, burgundy, orange, green, purple	Black (diamond bezel)
Water Resistance	50m	30m
Market Price (Used)	~$13,000	~$13,000
Production Years	1996-2005	2017–2024

Everyday Luxury: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 or Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 (~$8k)

My #1 recommendation for women first expressing interest in the luxury watch world is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31. It doesn’t need to be babied, it can be worn everyday, and it simply looks correct. Rolex really nailed the proportions in this size. Unlike larger Oyster Perpetuals, the Oyster Perpetual 28 and 31 have Syloxi (silicon) hairsprings and none of the aforementioned amplitude issues found in men’s models.

The OP31 is one of few ladies’ watches that sells secondhand for more than its list price, which is $5,950. The most popular dials (candy pink, turquoise, lavender, Celebration, pistachio and beige) can sell for $10,000 and up, but the other colors (black, silver, blue, sunburst pink and green) are readily attainable for about $8,000. My wife has a green one and wears it almost all the time–despite having numerous other watches. You simply cannot go wrong with a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31, but if you want something a little bit less mainstream, that’s OK too.

These days it seems like we’ve become inundated with integrated bracelet luxury watches, but surprisingly few of them are offered in women’s sizes. The Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, though technically called “unisex,” is a worthy choice for an everyday-wear luxury piece in a lady’s $25k watch collection. Because Chopard is such an underrated watch brand, you should be able to find one for about 1/3 off its list price of $11,800.

Although Chopard is widely slept-on, the Alpine Eagle has started to get some attention from collectors and rightfully so. The dial texture is awesome and the overall fit and finish you get from Chopard is outstanding. Plus, Chopard uses Lucent Steel instead of regular stainless steel, which is made from at least 70% recycled material. But more importantly, Lucent Steel looks very bright and provides 50% greater scratch resistance than typical stainless steel. If you want something other than a Rolex for an everyday steel luxury watch in a ladies’ $25k watch collection, the Alpine Eagle 33 is an excellent choice.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 and the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Specs

	Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31	Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
Reference Number	277200	298617-3001
Case Material	Oystersteel (904L stainless steel)	Lucent Steel A223 (high-brilliance steel)
Case Diameter	31mm	33mm
Case Thickness	10.65mm	7.95mm
Movement	Rolex Calibre 2232 (automatic)	Chopard 09.01-C (automatic)
Power Reserve	~55 hours	42 hours
Water Resistance	100m	50m
Bracelet/Strap	Oyster bracelet	Integrated bracelet
Dial	Lacquered, various colors	Aletsch Blue sunburst textured
Year Debuted	2020	2019
Market Price (Used)	~$8,000 (more for colorful dials)	~$8,000

An Obligatory Cartier: Panthère or Tank Must (~$4k)

We feel like no $25k ladies’ watch collection is complete without a Cartier, and with $4k left in the budget you can find numerous worthy choices. We’ll start with a small-sized Panthère, ref. WSPN0013, which current retails for $4,650 but can be found for a bit less pre-owned.

The Panthère is, more or less, the ladies’ version of the classic Cartier Santos. It also features a square bezel punctuated by eight screws. The blue spinel cabochon crown and the five-link stainless steel bracelet are also classic Cartier design cues. The quartz movement has a typical battery life of about three years.

Meanwhile, the tall and rectangular Cartier Tank is probably the brand’s most iconic watch lineup of all, but it can be tough to keep the numerous sub-families straight. I’ll break it down as concisely as I can: Tank Louis = classic and rounded; Américaine = elongated and curved; Française = blocky with integrated bracelet; Anglaise = monolithic with inset crown; Must = minimalist and affordable; Solo = simple and modern.

I would personally recommend considering the Cartier Tank Must Large. It has case dimensions of 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm, with a thickness of 6.6 mm, so it’s really more unisex than “large.” A trio of richly lacquered ultra-minimalist blue, burgundy, and green dials appeared in 2021.

Any color would make an excellent addition to a $25k watch collection, especially considering the impressive eight-year battery life, but I’m partial to the green one (WSTA0056). The colorful dials were discontinued after less than two years, and because they’re entry-level quartz models, I think the market still takes them for granted and hasn’t realized how special they are. So you should be able to snag one for $4,000.

Cartier Tank Must Large and Panthère de Cartier Small Specs

	Cartier Tank Must Large (Colorful Dials)	Panthère de Cartier Small
Reference Number	WSTA0054 (Burgundy) WSTA0055 (Blue) WSTA0056 (Green)	WSPN0013
Case Material	Stainless steel	Stainless steel
Case Dimensions	25mm width 6.6mm thickness 33.7mm lug-to-lug	23mm width 6mm thickness 30mm lug-to-lug
Water Resistance	30m	30m
Movement Caliber	Cartier 157, “High-Autonomy” Quartz	Unspecified quartz
Battery Life	~8 years	~3 years
Bracelet/Strap	Green alligator leather strap	Polished stainless steel bracelet
Years Produced	2021-2023	2021+
Market Value (2025)	~$4,000	~$4,000

Hopefully this theoretical money-spending exercise has been somewhat enlightening or at least amusing for you. And if you need help building your real-life $25k watch collection, just let us know!