The Best One-Watch Collection
The best one-watch collection is just that, one watch for life. A constant companion someone will want to wear for decades. For many, it’s a foreign concept because, let’s face it, it’s hard to buy just one watch and stop there with so many outstanding options available today. However, many passionate collectors are attracted to the simplicity of owning just one watch, and we are on a quest to help them with a brief list of the timepieces we think fit the bill for the best one-and-done watch collection.
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Top Choice For a One-Watch Collection: Omega Speedmaster Professional
The stainless steel Omega Speedmaster has an enduring quality about it. The Speedmaster Professional model of today hardly looks different than one made 60 years ago, and it’s been a fixture on the wrists of astronauts, celebrities, and ordinary horology enthusiasts for decades. It isn’t a stretch to assume it will still be an influential and reliable watch for life and possibly for future generations. There’s also the question of functionality. As the brand’s resident chronograph, the Speedmaster is a practical, everyday tool for measuring elapsed time. It can act as a simple stopwatch, or the tachymeter bezel can calculate the hourly rate of a repetitive task.
Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001 is the current production model Speedmaster Professional, with ties to the past and future of watchmaking. The latest, and quite possibly greatest, Omega caliber 3861 manual-winding movement drives the watch and promises a longer 50-hour power reserve, better anti-magnetism than previous calibers, and the title “Certified Master Chronometer.” If you’re committing to one watch, it might as well be one with unparalleled precision.
Outwardly, ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001 embraces a timeless aesthetic heavily inspired by the 4th generation Omega that once traveled to the Moon. It sports a similar aluminum “Dot over 90” bezel, Hesalite crystal, step dial, and twisted “Lyre” lugs. The stainless steel model also looks exceptional on nearly any strap, including steel, leather, and rubber. It’s easy to switch up the look of the watch from casual to sporty or formal.
Key Features: Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001
| Model: | Omega Speedmaster Professional |
| Reference Number: | 310.30.42.50.01.001 |
| Case Size: | 42mm |
| Crystal: | Hesalite |
| Bezel: | Tachymeter, Aluminum “Dot over 90” |
| Dial: | Black “Step” |
| Movement: | Caliber 3861 |
| Functions: | Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds. |
| Price: | $6,600 Retail, Approx. $5,395 Pre-Owned |
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Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610
When it comes to one-watch collections, the Rolex Submariner 126610 is a sound option because it uses superior materials that will stand the test of time. At the same time, it boasts the effortless style and functionality of an industry-leading dive watch. It looks sharp tucked under the cuff of a black tux yet keeps perfect time hundreds of meters below the ocean’s surface. With that much versatility and style range, the Submariner is a smart choice for a once-in-a-lifetime watch.
Rolex has released many iterations of the Submariner since the 1950s, including some in solid gold and two-tone. However, none is as consistently sought-after as the legendary stainless steel model outfitted with a classic black dial and bezel. A design set that is often imitated but never duplicated. Ref. 126610 is the latest model, with the highly anticipated caliber 3235 Perpetual movement, contemporary 41mm case, and durable Rolex Oystersteel bracelet. Rolex’s patented Chromalight, which was quietly upgraded in 2022, lends itself to hours of legibility in dark environments, while the almost-unscratchable Cerachrom insert promises resistance to normal wear and tear.
We can’t forget about the Submariner’s excellent dive watch functionality. While it wasn’t the first professional dive watch on the scene in the 1950s (well, some people argue that it was), the Submariner is easily one of the most influential. It offers water resistance up to 300 meters/1,000 feet on current-production models and is outfitted with a unidirectional timing bezel for safe underwater timekeeping, plus its Glidelock extension clasp provides arguably the best on-the-fly adjustment on the market.
Key Features: Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN
| Model: | Rolex Submariner Date |
| Reference Number: | 126610LN |
| Case Size: | 41mm |
| Crystal: | Sapphire |
| Bezel: | 60-Minute, Unidirectional, Ceramic “Cerachrom” |
| Dial: | Black, Chromalight |
| Movement: | Caliber 3235 |
| Functions: | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date |
| Price: | $10,250 Retail, Approx. $13,000 Pre-Owned |
Tudor Black Bay GMT Ref. M79830RB
A stylish dual-time watch is another contender for our list, particularly for anyone who travels often, has vested interests in other time zones, or appreciates the look of a classic pilot’s watch. Add a substantial depth rating and a perfectly executed vintage-inspired design set to the mix, and you’ve got all the makings of a fantastic lifelong timepiece. That watch, of course, is the Tudor Black Bay GMT ref. M79830RB.
When Tudor released this model just a few years ago, many keen-eyed collectors were quick to notice that the Tudor Black Bay GMT closely resembled the legendary GMT-Master/GMT-Master II produced by sister company Rolex, even going so far as to sport a similar red and blue “Pepsi” bezel. The muted, darker hues on the Tudor bezel are reminiscent of a genuine vintage watch, matching the overall vintage-inspired vibe presented throughout the rest of the broader Black Bay series. It has all the appeal of a famous Pepsi GMT without the premium accompanying a Rolex watch. At a fraction of the price, the Tudor Black Bay GMT is an excellent choice if you have concerns about wearing a $10,000+ Rolex on your wrist day in and day out.
Aside from their inherently timeless aesthetic, Black Bay watches are suited for a lifetime of wear and built to last using modern materials, such as scratch-resistant sapphire and longer-lasting luminescent hour markers and hands. The same goes with the modern caliber MT5652 movement, which has a silicon balance spring, quickset date, and 70-hour power reserve.
Key Features: Tudor Black Bay GMT Ref. M79830RB
| Model: | Tudor Black Bay GMT |
| Reference Number: | M79830RB |
| Case Size: | 41mm |
| Crystal: | Sapphire |
| Bezel: | 24-Hour, Bidirectional, Anodized Aluminum |
| Dial: | Black |
| Movement: | Caliber MT5652 |
| Functions: | GMT, Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date |
| Price: | $4,375 Retail, Approx. $3,500 Pre-Owned |
Rolex Datejust Ref. 116234
Another solid choice for a one-watch collection is a simple, three-hand timepiece with a calendar mechanism like a modern pre-owned Rolex Datejust. Ref. 116234 in White Rolesor flies under the radar with a versatile white metal finish and classy white dial. It has a slightly elevated look to it with the white gold fluted bezel that glitters as the wrist moves. The nice thing about this watch is that you don’t need to switch out the strap to make it more wearable. It’s perfect as-is. The best part is that the Datejust comes in a dizzying variety of design sets if this model doesn’t speak to your watch tastes, and Datejust prices are relatively reasonable as far as Rolex watches go.
For this list, we chose the time-honored favorite, Datejust 36mm. It has that classic Rolex dress watch silhouette that will suit a range of wrist sizes, from men to women. The Datejust was the first mechanical wristwatch to offer an automatically changing date display. While this feature is a fixture in the watchmaking industry today, it was pretty revolutionary when the collection debuted in 1945 and is arguably a must-have for an everyday watch.
Reliability is another concern for the perfect lifelong watch, and the Rolex Datejust has it in spades. The Oyster case is hermetically sealed, protecting the movement from dust and moisture, and the Perpetual movement boasts self-winding and a prestigious COSC distinction – perfect for constant wear.
Key Features: Rolex Datejust Ref. 116234
| Model: | Rolex Datejust |
| Reference Number: | 116234 |
| Case Size: | 36mm |
| Crystal: | Sapphire |
| Metal Finish: | White Rolesor – Stainless Steel and 18k White Gold |
| Dial: | White |
| Movement: | Caliber 3135 |
| Functions: | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date |
| Price: | $7,950 Retail, Approx. $8,500 Pre-owned |
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 124300
The perfect one-and-done collection includes a practical watch, both in functionality and style. As Rolex’s signature, time-only dress watch, the Oyster Perpetual delivers. The collection has been in production longer than most of the Rolex catalog and was among the first models to sport both the legendary Oyster case and the Perpetual movement. By leaving out the date, the dial takes on a cleaner, more utilitarian aesthetic, particularly on newer models with the 41mm case, luminescent baton indices, and sleek Oystersteel finish.
Ref. 124300 took the market by storm when it debuted in 2020 with a larger 41mm case size, next-generation movement, and a fresh and contemporary selection of Stella-inspired dial colors like turquoise, yellow and coral red. Collectors rushed to their ADs to get their hands on the bold and vibrant new offerings. A colorful watch face has redeeming qualities but doesn’t stand the test of time. We are also thankful that Rolex included classically elegant dial options with the new release, such as black, blue, and silver. If we were to wear the same watch for the rest of our lives, most would choose one with an understated dial color.
Like the Datejust, the modern Oyster Perpetual ref. 124300 has a classic dress watch silhouette that we expect will always be in style.
Key Features: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 124300
| Model: | Rolex Oyster Perpetual |
| Reference Number: | 124300 |
| Case Size: | 41mm |
| Crystal: | Sapphire |
| Metal Finish: | Oystersteel |
| Dial: | Lacquer with Chromalight-filled hour markers (various colors) |
| Movement: | Caliber 3230 |
| Functions: | Hours, Minutes, Seconds |
| Price: | MSRP: $6,400 Market Price: $9,000-$29,000 (Varies by color) |
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Precious Metal One-Watch Collection: Zenith Ultra-Thin
The Zenith Elite Ultra-Thin is a beautifully minimalist watch. Featuring a lustrous rose gold finish and measuring 40mm in diameter and approximately 7.6mm thick, ref. 18.2010.681/11.C498 excels in wrist presence and comfort. While precious metal isn’t typically the first choice for a daily driver or lifelong watch, this slightly unconventional choice will appeal to the open-minded collector with a sharp eye for high style.
What really caught our eye was the understated elegance of the dial, which we can see on any wrist and during any era. Roman numerals are set against a classic white dial, accompanied by long-tapered hour and minute hands and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock.
Key Features: Zenith Elite Ultra-Thin Ref. 18.2010.681/11.C498
| Model: | Zenith Elite Ultra-Thin |
| Reference Number: | 18.2010.681/11.C498 |
| Case Size: | 40mm |
| Metal Finish: | 18k Rose Gold |
| Dial: | White |
| Movement: | Caliber Elite 681 |
| Functions: | Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds |
| Price: | Approx. $7,995 Pre-Owned |
From purpose-driven tool watches to sophisticated dress watches, countless contenders for the best one-watch collection exist. We hope this brief list has inspired you in your search for the last watch you will ever need to own.
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