Patek Philippe Unveils New Models For Fall 2023
It used to be customary for big watch brands to only release their new models in the springtime during important watch shows like Baselworld and SIHH. However, it’s now becoming more common for brands to drop a batch of fresh watches several times a year, including in the fall. Patek Philippe did just that by announcing a handful of new watches, including a special piece made in honor of Philippe Stern, the honorary president of the renowned brand. Let’s look at all the new models Patek Philippe released for Fall 2023.
Earlier 2023 Patek Philippe Releases: New Patek Philippe Watches for 2023
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Reference 1938P-001
As a watch brand that’s become famous for its generational advertising campaigns, it’s only apt that the dutiful son at the head of Patek Philippe would create a watch to honor his father. To celebrate the 85th birthday of Philippe Stern (who served as the company’s president from 1993 to 2009), Thierry Stern (the president since 2009) commissioned a special edition of 30 watches, complete with his dad’s face on the dial and a brand new movement that will only ever be used for this commemorative watch. The watch was slated to be part of the 2023 Only Watch auction, however, the auction has been suspended for the time being due to mysteries about where the money is actually going.
The watch is the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P-001, which not only includes papa Philippe’s favorite complication, the minute repeater, but also includes an alarm that chimes a preprogrammed time. To achieve this, the engineers at Patek Philippe developed the new Caliber R AL 27 PS self-winding movement whereby the minute repeater and the alarm chime on the same two classic gongs but the movement is also capable of switching between minute repeater mode or alarm model.
The clever caliber, which boasts four new patents, is housed within a 41mm platinum case. Another tip of the hat to Philippe Stern is the use of the dust cover on the back of the watch, inspired by an “Officer’s” style Reference 3960 watch he had made in 1989. When the cover is opened, the inscription “A mon père, 85 ans de passion horlogère” (To my father, 85 years of watchmaking passion)” is visible on the inside cover while the new caliber is on full display through the exhibition caseback, including Philippe Stern’s signature on the mini rotor.
The dial of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P-001 is the most controversial design aspect of the watch given that it includes a portrait of Philippe Stern. The miniature painting was done in Grand Feu white and gray on a Grand Feu black enamel background. I’m not sure how many people would want the face of the ex-president of Patek Philippe on their wrist, but this will be a collectible piece nonetheless.
Learn More:
What is a Minute Repeater Watch?
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Reference 1938P-001 Specs
Reference | 1938P-001 |
Case | 41mm, platinum |
Dial | 18K gold dial plate with portrait of Philippe Stern in Grand Feu white and gray enamel on a Grand Feu black enamel background |
Strap | Alligator leather with platinum buckle |
Functions | Central hour and minutes, running seconds subdial, minute repeater, 12-hour programmed alarm |
Movement | Caliber R AL 27 PS self-winding, |
Power Reserve | Min. 43 hours – max. 48 hours |
Limited Edition | 30 examples |
2023 Retail Price | CHF 890,000 (approximately $1,005,000 USD) |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Reference 5260 Watches
Patek Philippe announced a duo of other minute repeaters, but this time in the Aquanaut collection. This is the first time Patek has made an Aquanaut minute repeater watch and the company opted for the dazzling Luce line for the debut. Plus, the watchmaker didn’t only make one but two high jewelry “Rainbow” references.
While both include 38.8mm rose gold cases with baguette-cut diamonds and rainbow sapphires set into the bezel and diamond-paved dials with sapphire hour markers, one version is fitted with the customary “composite” Aquanaut strap while the other is furnished with a lavish sapphire-set bracelet. The latter even includes sapphires, rubies, and a single diamond set into the hands.
This isn’t the first time we’ve seen a rainbow watch in the Aquanaut Luce collection — Patek added an Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph to the line in 2022. It seems the watchmaker is fully on board with the gem-set rainbow watch trend that’s exploded over the last few years.
Aside from their opulent looks, these gem-set watches are also minute repeaters, complete with their telltale slide-pieces on the left side of the case to chime the hour, quarters, and minutes passed since the last quarter. Masterfully set with gems and technically impressive, these new Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater ref. 5260 high-jewelry watches are (unsurprisingly) exceedingly expensive; yet, they will likely command even higher-than-retail prices on the secondary market.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater Specs
Reference | 5260/355R-001 | 5260/1455R-001 |
Case | 38.8mm, rose gold, 8 baguette diamonds set into the lugs | 38.8 mm, rose gold, baguette-cut multicolored sapphires set into the casebands, slider, and lugs |
Bezel | 40 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires, 40 baguette-cut diamonds | 40 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires, 40 baguette-cut diamonds |
Dial | Paved with baguette-cut diamonds, multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, hour ring set with snow-set diamonds | Paved with baguette-cut diamonds, multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, hour ring set with snow-set diamonds, hands set with diamond, sapphires, and rubies |
Strap/Bracelet | Beige composite strap, additional white or red strap, diamond-set fold-over clasp | Rose gold bracelet paved with baguette-cut multicolored sapphires, sapphire-set fold-over clasp |
Functions | Central hour and minute hands, minute repeater | Central hour and minute hands, minute repeater |
Movement | Caliber R 2 self-winding | Caliber R 2 self-winding |
Power Reserve | Min. 43 hours – max. 48 hours | Min. 43 hours – max. 48 hours |
2023 Retail Price | CHF 850,000 (Approximately $959,480 USD) | CHF 2.5 million (Approximately $2.82 million USD) |
Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Reference 7118
More precious gems incoming! Patek Philippe expands its high-jewelry Nautilus collection with three new “snow-set” watches combining diamonds with blue sapphires, rubies, or emeralds. The watches are crafted from 18k white gold, featuring 35.2mm cases, time-only dials, and integrated Nautilus bracelets.
One important thing to note is that the precious stones set in the case and bracelet are “snow-set,” characterized by combining stones of different sizes to cover as much of the surface as possible. This challenging gem-setting technique, which was pioneered by Jaeger-LeCoultre, has been a favorite of high-end watchmakers for the last few years.
As these are ladies’ Nautilus models, the dials retain the signature wave pattern dial, but of course, blanketed in diamonds and punctuated with either sapphire, ruby, or emerald hour markers depending on the specific reference.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Reference 7118 Specs
References | 7118/1451G-001 (blue sapphires), 7118/1452G-001 (red rubies), 7118/1453G-001 (green emeralds) |
Case | 35.5mm, white gold. Snow-set with diamonds |
Bezel | Rounded octagonal, snow-set with either sapphires, rubies, or emeralds |
Dial | Paved with diamonds, “wave” pattern, white gold hour markers set with either sapphires, rubies, or emeralds |
Bracelet | White gold integrated three-link bracelet, snow-set with diamonds and either sapphires, rubies, or emeralds, diamond-set fold-over clasp. |
Functions | Central hour, minute, and seconds hand |
Movement | Caliber 26-330 S self-winding movement |
Power Reserve | Min. 45 hours |
2023 Retail Prices | Upon Request |
Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus References 7010
A duo of purple models join the quartz Ladies’ Nautilus lineup — one with a bracelet and the other with a strap. Both features sport 32mm rose gold cases, topped with diamond-set bezels. The purple lacquered “wave” dials are home to a trio of hands at the center and a date window at 3 o’clock, all powered by the Caliber E 23‑250 S C quartz movement.
These petite gold and diamond Nautilus watches are available with either a purple composite fabric strap furnished with a Nautilus fold-over clasp or a full rose gold integrated bracelet fitted with Patek’s patented fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system. The arrival of these two new rose gold Ladies’ Nautilus 7010 watches signals the discontinuation of all the other 32mm quartz Nautilus watches.
Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus References 7010 Specs
References | 7010R-013 (strap), 7010/1R-013 (bracelet) |
Case | 32mm, rose gold |
Bezel | Rounded octagonal, set with 46 diamonds |
Dial | Wave pattern dial, purple lacquer |
Bracelet | Composite purple fabric strap, or rose gold three-link integrated bracelet |
Functions | Central hour, minute, and seconds hand, date window |
Movement | E 23-250 S C quartz movement |
2023 Retail Prices | $39,620 (7010R-013), $56,180 (7010/1R-013) |
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