The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) concluded in Switzerland last week and we have a list of the big winners of the watch industry’s most important awards night. There were plenty of familiar names, as well as some surprises from lesser-known watch brands. Let’s have a look at the winning watches of 2023 GPHG.
Our Previous Predictions: And The Nominees Are… the Best Watches from the 2023 GPHG Field
GPHG 2023 Aguille D’or Winner – Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4
The winner of the “Aguille D’or” or the biggest winning watch of 2023 GPHG was the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Boasting 40 functions and 23 complications, this ultra-complicated watch is powered by the new AP Caliber 1000 comprising 1,155 components. Some of the most impressive complications include a Grande Sonnerie Supersonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-seconds flyback chronograph, and a flying tourbillon.
Despite the immense technical requirements of the movement, Audemars Piguet still managed to fit it into a very wearable 42mm Code 11.59 case that’s only 15.5mm thick. That pink gold case is home to a beautiful beige and black dial and it’s fitted with a black rubber strap. A piece unique, Audemars Piguet only made one example of the pink gold Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 (ref. 26398OR.OO.D002KB.01) and priced it at 1,723,200 CHF, which is about $1,937,000.
Audemars Piguet ref. 26398OR specs
Absolutely, here’s the updated table with the bracelet/strap information included:
Model name | Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 |
Reference | 26398OR.OO.D002KB.01 |
Case Material | Pink Gold |
Case Size | 42mm |
Case Thickness | 15.6mm |
Water Resistance | 20m |
Movement | AP Caliber 1000 |
Functions | Split-seconds flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, moonphase, Grande Sonnerie Supersonnerie, flying tourbillon, big date, hours, minutes |
Bracelet/Strap | Black rubber strap |
Learn More:
Six New Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watches Now In Steel
What is a Grand Complication Watch?
GPHG 2023 Iconic Watch Prize Winner – Ulysse Nardin Freak One
When Ulysse Nardin debuted the Freak in 2001, the watch with no dial, no hands, and no crown certainly lived up to its unconventional name. Since then, the Freak has become the hero of Ulysse Nardin’s catalog and the watchmaker has created several iterations of the avant-garde timepiece, such as the Freak One.
The Freak One, which was the 2023 GPHG “Iconic Watch Prize” winner, debuted in 2023 and it’s a direct descendent of the original Freak retaining many of the signature design details. Due to the lack of hands, time is displayed via its orbital flying carrousel tourbillon which indicates the minutes by completing a full revolution in 60 minutes while a v-shaped pointer attached to the barrel cover indicates the hours. The Freak One (ref. 2405-500-2A/3D) features a 44mm case made from rose gold and black DLC titanium.
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Specs
Model Name | Ulysse Nardin Freak One |
Reference | 2405-500-2A/3D |
Case Material | Black DLC-coated titanium with satin finish, rose gold bezel |
Case Size | 44mm |
Case Thickness | 12mm |
Dial | Black |
Movement | UN-240 self-winding |
Functions | Hours, minutes, orbital flying carrousel tourbillon |
Power Reserve | Approximately 90 hours |
Strap | Black rubber ‘ballistic’ textured |
More about Ulysse Nardin:
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon in Blue and Rose Gold
Ulysse Nardin Genghis Khan Tourbillon Minute Repeater
The Ulysse Nardin Chairman: Most Expensive Smartphone
GPHG 2023 Sports Watch Prize Winner – Tudor Pelagos 39
Released in 2022, the Tudor Pelagos 39 has not only become a hit among watch fans but as illustrated by its 2023 GPHG “Sports Watch Prize” award, approved by industry folks too. As its name suggests, the Pelagos 39 is a more compact version of Tudor’s dive watch, featuring a 39mm case crafted from lightweight titanium and topped with a ceramic bezel.
While it’s less water-resistant than its predecessor (200 meters compared to 500 meters) and doesn’t retain the helium escape valve, what it lacks in additional features the Pelagos 39 makes up for in everyday wearability. And let’s not forget that 200 meters of water resistance is already over the top for 99.99% of the population!
Tudor Pelagos 39 Specs
Model name | Tudor Pelagos 39 |
Reference | 25407N |
MSRP | $4,700 |
Case Material | Grade 2 Titanium |
Case Diameter | 39mm |
Case Thickness | 11.8mm |
Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Rotating Timing Bezel |
Dial | Black with Satin Sunray Finish, Lumed Hour Markers |
Bezel | Unidirectional (60-Click), Ceramic 60-Minute Insert |
Learn More:
What is a Dive Watch?
The New Tudor Pelagos FXD in Black
Everything You Need to Know About Tudor Military Watches
GPHG 2023 Tourbillon Watch Prize Winner – Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit
Laurent Ferrier is one of those what we like to call “if you know, you know” high-end watch brands, catering to a niche segment of the watch connoisseur community. Quiet luxury or Stealth Wealth watches if you will. Founders of the brand, Laurent Ferrier and François Servanin, have participated in the 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race many times, and it’s their experiences watching the sunrise on the famed racetrack that inspired the salmon pink color of the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit watch — the winner of the 2023 GPHG “Tourbillon Watch Prize” category.
In true quiet luxury fashion, the tourbillon mechanism is not, as it normally is on most tourbillon watches, flaunted on the dial for all to see, but rather only visible via the caseback of the 44mm cushion-shaped titanium case. Instead, what you get is a beautifully executed yet simpler dial, featuring a pair of luminous hands at the center, a running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and well-lumed hour markers, all placed on a gradient salmon dial.
Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit Specs
Model Name | Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit |
Reference | LCF044.T1.RN1 |
MSRP | 175,000 CHF |
Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
Case Diameter | 44mm |
Case Thickness | 13.40mm |
Dial | Gradient salmon-pink opaline |
Water Resistance | 100m |
Bracelet/Strap | Grade 5 titanium integrated bracelet with folding clasp |
Movement | LF619.01 (manual-wind) |
Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon with double balance spring |
Learn More:
What is a Tourbillon Watch?
GPHG 2023 Jewelry Watch Price Winner – Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra
For the second year in a row, Bulgari is crowned the winner of the “Jewelry Watch Prize Category” for its incredible Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra high-jewelry piece. This rose gold creation is fashioned into a manchette (a.k.a. cuff), which was a favorite adornment of Cleopatra.
Living up to its Serpenti name, the manchette features snake-like scales, which are paved with diamonds. Accompanying the diamond backdrop are three topaz, two rubellites, two tanzanites, and two amethysts. The petite dial is cleverly set within one of the topaz stones, punctuated with simple hour and minute hands.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra Specs
Model Name | Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra |
Reference | 103654 |
Case Material | Pink gold, fine stones with pavé diamonds |
Number of Carats | 147 |
Dial Finish | Snow setting diamond with topaz glace |
Water Resistance | 30m |
Case Diameter (Watch Only) | 10.80 x 17.25 mm |
Thickness | 7mm |
Movement | Quartz |
Functions | Hours, Minutes |
MSRP | 938,000 CHF |
Other 2023 GPHG Winners
Aside from the winning watches we highlighted above, there were plenty of other winners at 2023 GPHG. They are as follows:
- Ladies’ Watch Prize: Piaget Hidden Treasures
- Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Dior Montres Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior
- Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Voutilainen World Timer
- Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Bovet 1822 Récital 20 Astérium
- Chronograph Watch Prize: Petermann Bédat
- Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Piaget Altiplano Métiers d’Art – Undulata
- Petite Aiguille Prize: Christopher Ward c1 Bel Canto
- Challenge Watch Prize: Raymond Weil Millésime Automatic Small Seconds
- Mechanical Clock Prize: L’Epée 1939 Time Fast II Chrome
- Chronometry Prize: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC
- Horological Revelation Prize: Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans
- Audacity Prize: Maison Alcée Persée Azur
- Innovation Prize: Hautlence Sphere Series 1
- Special Jury Prize: Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese
There you have it, all the winners of the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève; congratulations to all the winning watches and brands.