$10k Watch Collection Guide: How to Spend $10,000 on Luxury Watches
For many people, the purchase of a multi-thousand dollar watch is a one-and-done situation. They have their nice watch for life. But if you’re not one of those people, and you’re often wanting the “next” watch, you can end up with a 10k watch collection sooner than you expect. If you’re the type of collector that likes to plan out your purchases, though, here’s our guide to the type of 10k watch collection you can get on the market today.
Fundamental $10k Two-Watch Collection
Rolex and Omega are two of the very top luxury watch brands in the world in terms of sales. We’ll break down some more unusual $10k watch collection possibilities later, but if you don’t want to overthink it, you can just get (arguably) the most iconic watch from each brand: a Rolex Datejust and an Omega Speedmaster Professional.
The second-newest generation of Datejust models, such as ref. 116200, are a particularly good value on the secondhand market. They’re cheaper than the newest Datejusts but not much more expensive than neo-vintage models like ref. 16200. Plus, if you get the 116200 on a Jubilee bracelet, you’ll get the beloved hidden clasp which is no longer available on any current Rolex men’s watches.
When it comes to the Speedmaster, any basic pre-owned Professional model is a great choice for an entry-level Omega. The “Sapphire Sandwich” ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005 (produced from 2014 to 2021) in particular is our pick for this 10k two-watch collection. Its exhibition caseback provides a nice view of the movement.
Speedy Pro + Datejust Specs
| Model Name | Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch “Sapphire Sandwich” | Rolex Datejust |
| Market Price (Aug. 2024) | $4,700 | $5,300 |
| Reference Number | 311.30.42.30.01.005 | 116200 |
| Case Diameter | 42mm | 36mm |
| Case Thickness | 13.7mm | 11.7mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 48mm | 44mm |
| Movement Caliber | Calibre 1861 (Manual wind) | Calibre 3135 (Automatic) |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours | 48 hours |
| Water Resistance | 50m | 100m |
| Bracelet/Strap Options | Steel bracelet | Steel Oyster bracelet |
$10k Moderate-Size Everyday Watch Collection
You can also get a nice $10k three-watch collection that includes a desirable modern Rolex, but the Rolex will definitely be a non-sports model (like a red grape Oyster Perpetual ref. 116000) and still take most of the budget. We added a Grand Seiko and a Nomos to the mix to round out an everyday-wearable moderately-sized 10k watch collection representing the three leading high-end mechanical watchmaking countries (Switzerland, Germany and Japan).
To fit the budget, we went with a simple manual-wind Nomos (a Club Campus 36) and a quartz Grand Seiko. The Club Campus is available in a variety of bright colors and features a California dial (meaning half of the numerals are Roman). The quality of the winding feel on the Nomos punches well above its price range. And the Grand Seiko SBGN029 is an excellent Rolex Explorer II alternative. If you don’t mind wearing, basically, a quartz Explorer II homage, SBGN models are a great way to get Grand Seiko finishing and a GMT function for a palatable price. With this 10k watch collection, you have an automatic, a quartz, and a manual-wind watch to enjoy.
Grand Seiko SBGN + Rolex OP36 + Nomos Club Campus Specs
| Model Name | Grand Seiko Sport Collection | Rolex Oyster Perpetual | Nomos Club Campus 36 |
| Reference Number | SBGN027 (Black) SBGN029 (Blue) | 116000 | 708 through 717 (various colors) |
| Market Price (Aug. 2024) | $2,600 | $6,200 | $1,200 |
| Case Diameter | 39mm | 36mm | 36mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.3mm | 11.7mm | 8.2mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 45.9mm | 44mm | 47.5mm |
| Movement Caliber | 9F86 (Quartz) | 3130 (Automatic) | Alpha (Manual) |
| Power Reserve | 3 years (battery life) | 48 hours | 43 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100m | 100m | 100m |
| Bracelet/Strap Options | Steel bracelet | Steel Oyster bracelet | Velour leather strap |
| MSRP (Aug. 2024 or final) | $3,300 | $5,400 | $1,500 (add $300 for sapphire caseback) |
$10k Sports Watch Collection
Lots of enthusiasts like having a dressy watch as part of a 10k watch collection, but for others, sports watches get all the wrist time. Divers, chronographs, and GMT’s are the most popular categories of luxury sports watches these days, so here’s our suggestion for a three-watch collection that costs $10,000 (or maybe a touch over) and covers all those bases.
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono was extremely hot for a while, and now that it’s cooled off it’s one of the best chronographs you can find on the market for under $4,000. I also think the current Breitling Superocean 42, offered in several nice colorways, is one of the best divers available for under $4,000 secondhand. In general, Tudor and Breitling both crush it at this pre-owned price point.
And if you want a sporty GMT with a distinctive aesthetic, the Bell & Ross BR-03 93 GMT is worth a look. The Breitling and Bell & Ross both have ETA or Sellita movements, while the Tudor has what it calls an “in-house movement” despite being based on the Breitling B01 caliber.
BB Chrono + Superocean 42 + Bell & Ross GMT Specs
| Model Name | Tudor Black Bay Chrono | Breitling Superocean 42 | Bell & Ross BR-03 93 GMT |
| Reference Number | 79360N | A17375 | BR0393-BL-ST |
| Market Price (Aug. 2024) | $3,600 (Black dial) $4,000 (Panda) $10,000 (Pink) | $3,800 | $3,200 |
| Case Diameter | 41mm | 42mm | 42mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.4mm | 12.5mm | 11.3mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 49.9mm | 50mm | 51mm |
| Movement Caliber | MT5813 (Breitling B01) | Breitling 17 (ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1) | BR-CAL.303 (ETA 2893-2) |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours | 38 hours | 42 hours |
| Water Resistance | 200m | 300m | 100m |
| Bracelet/Strap Options | Steel bracelet, leather strap, fabric strap | Rubber strap, steel bracelet | Calfskin leather, synthetic fabric |
| MSRP (Aug. 2024) | $5,550 on Oyster bracelet (add $125 for Jubilee with pink dial) | $5,200 (rubber strap) $5,400 (bracelet) | $4,200 |
More on Breitling and Tudor:
Tudor vs. Rolex: How Do They Stack Up Now?
2024 Breitling Watch Releases
The Bold, Blocky, Forgotten Tudor Watches of the Early 2000’s
The Best Entry-Level Breitling Watches
A Collector’s Guide to the Breitling Emergency
10k Watch Collection for Big Wrists
When it comes to watch collecting, wrist size is an important consideration, so we wanted to include a 10k collection for larger wrists, too. A Cartier Santos 100 XL makes a good foundation for the collection, and although 38mm may not sound very large, keep in mind that square watches wear much larger than circular ones with an equal diameter. So it’s a substantial watch, and even if you opt for a two-tone version with a gold bezel (like ref. W20072X7) you should be able to find one for under $6,000.
Another great choice for a large-wristed watch enthusiast would be an entry-level Panerai like a Luminor Base Logo model. You can’t go wrong with the PAM 000–it gives you all of Panerai’s design DNA for under $4,000 secondhand. With a 44mm width, it’s a substantial watch that looks great on big wrists–although Panerai does make some 47mm watches if you want something huger.
Because both the Cartier and Panerai come on leather straps, it might be handy to have a sub-$1,000 beater watch on a bracelet too. And for that, we can’t think of anything better than a Seiko “Captain Willard.” The SPB151 is primarily known as a modern reinterpretation of the Seiko 6105-8110, famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character Captain Willard in the film “Apocalypse Now.” Despite its price point, it feels right at home in a 10k watch collection.
Panerai Luminor Base Logo + Cartier Santos 100 XL + Seiko Captain Willard Specs
| Model Name | Luminor Base | Santos 100 XL | Prospex 1970 Diver’s |
| Reference Number | PAM00000 | W20072X7 | SPB151 |
| Market Price (Aug. 2024) | $3,700 | $5,900 | $900 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel | Stainless steel with yellow gold bezel | Stainless steel |
| Case Diameter | 44mm | 38mm | 42.7mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.4mm | 10.3mm | 15mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 53mm | 51mm | 46.6mm |
| Movement Caliber | OP I (Hand-wound) | 1847 MC (Automatic) | 6R35 (Automatic) |
| Power Reserve | 56 hours | 42 hours | 70 hours |
| Water Resistance | 300m | 100m | 200m |
| Bracelet/Strap Options | Leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
Contrarian Connoisseur Collection
So far we’ve shown you a lot of watches that are oft-recommended favorites among watch nerds. But if you’re looking for something a bit more unusual, we’ve put together an oddball 10k watch collection for discerning contrarians. We’ll start with one of the most overlooked luxury watch brands today, Franck Muller. Their watches, many with tonneau cases and over-the-top colors, were wildly popular in the early 2000s, but collectors largely ignore them now. Fortunately, that means you can easily find an interesting and classy Franck Muller–like a steel Casablanca ref. 2852–for around $3,000. A 31mm tonneau case wears similar to a 36mm round one in my opinion, so I would describe its size as “unisex.”
Bulgari has been gaining steam with collectors ever since the release of their ultra-thin Octo Finissimo in 2014. But they make regular-thickness Octo models, too, and those can often be found for great deals secondhand–particularly DLC-coated “Ultranero” models like ref. 102581. The multifaceted case shape is really something to behold in person.
And to round out this contrarian 10k watch collection, the Kurono Toki is a beautiful salmon-dial watch worthy of a hardcore watch collector. Secondhand, the Toki goes for more than its original preorder-only retail price of $1,700, and that might seem pricey for a watch with a common Miyota movement. But most of the value you’re getting is in the dial. I can’t think of another brand besides Kurono that puts so much time and effort into meticulously crafting artisan dials for sub-$3,000 watches.
Franck Muller Casablanca + Kurono Toki + DLC Bulgari Octo Specs
| Model Name | Franck Muller Casablanca | Kurono Toki | Bulgari Octo Solotempo Ultranero |
| Reference Number | 2852 | N/A | 102581 |
| Market Price (Aug. 2024) | $3,200 | $2,500 | $4,300 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel | Stainless steel | DLC-coated stainless steel |
| Case Diameter | 31mm | 37mm | 41mm |
| Case Thickness | 10mm | 11mm | 11mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 43mm | 43.5mm | 48mm |
| Movement Caliber | FM 2800 (Automatic, ETA 2892-A2 base) | Miyota 90S5 (Automatic) | BVL 191 (Automatic) |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours | 40 hours | 42 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30m | 30m | 100m |
| Bracelet/Strap Options | Leather strap | Leather strap | Rubber strap |
More on These Brands:
Franck Muller Watches: A Collector’s Overview
Bulgari Watch Prices: Are Bvlgari Watches Worth It?
Thinnest Watches in the World: Bulgari, Piaget, and Everyone Else
The Most Improved Luxury Watch Brands: Bulgari , Tudor and More
Pick Your Own Vintage Lane
Nowadays, when watch collectors have incredibly redundant collections–say, several variations of the Rolex Submariner–that’s often viewed as quirky and silly. Back in the 1990s, however, that was basically viewed as the correct way to collect watches. At this point, “buy what you like” is the conventional wisdom, but not so long ago, randomly buying unrelated watches that you like wasn’t thought of as “serious” collecting. The goal was more often to have a coherent collection of a particular niche thing.
And some people still do that. You could make a cool 10k watch collection made up only of four or five vintage Universal Geneve Polerouters, for instance. If you’re open to exploring the vast world of vintage watches, there is plenty of still-underappreciated stuff out there. There are endless ways to configure a watch collection of any price, but hopefully this exercise in spending 10,000 theoretical watch dollars was helpful for some of you.
More Collector’s Guides:
Meteorite Dial Watches: A Collector’s Guide
Tudor Chronograph Collector’s Guide
A Collector’s Guide to Greubel Forsey
The Omega Snoopy: A Collector’s Guide
Rolex Nickname Guide
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