“Should I get a watch winder?” is one of the most reliably recurring questions on watch forums. There are people who feel strongly in both the pro-winder and anti-winder camps (admittedly, I’m generally on team anti-winder). We’ll explain what a watch winder is, go over the pros and cons, and discuss the type of watches with the most need for a watch winder.
What is a Watch Winder?
A watch winder is a watch storage device that also keeps automatic watches wound, so that they never stop. Thus, the owner can simply grab a watch and go, without having to set the time. Some watch winders store just one watch, and others hold many. Some are even designed to fit inside safes.
How Does a Watch Winder Work?
Each watch goes in a spinning circular module. The spinning of those modules causes the automatic winding rotor to move, much like it does when worn on the wrist, thus keeping it wound. Typically, the more expensive a watch winder is, the more in-depth its programmable functions are. Owners can set options like the number of turns per day, the direction, and the amount of rest between winding periods.
Who Needs a Winder?
If you have an automatic perpetual calendar, or any complicated hard-to-set watch with a winding rotor, a winder is totally reasonable–or in some cases borderline necessary. There’s nothing wrong with putting a Patek Philippe Grand Complication on a winder. If it takes more than a minute or two to set your watch, a winder might make your life easier.
Keep in mind that winders only work for automatic watches; spinning a manual-wind watch around does nothing for its power reserve. In general, here’s the list of watch complications that make sense for a winder:
- Perpetual calendar
- Annual calendar
- Any other Grand Complication
- Triple calendar (not as complex as annual/perpetual but still a pain to set on some models)
- Worldtimer watches
- Moonphase watches
- Non-quickset vintage date models
To most of us, luxury watches are toys to be enjoyed, and watch winders are also a toy that some people enjoy. As long as you don’t mind possibly servicing your watches more than you would otherwise, knock yourself out. Plenty of rich guys have watch winders built into their safes.
Do I Need a Watch Winder For My Rolex?
No, there’s really no need for most Rolexes to sit on a winder. One possible exception is vintage Rolexes (from before about 1980) with non-quickset dates. Admittedly, it’s a huge pain to spin the hands around and around to get the date right, so I can understand getting a winder for that.
The thing is, vintage watches are often off by more than ten seconds per day. So if it sits on the winder for a couple weeks, you’ll likely have to set the time anyway, unless you’re some kind of monster who doesn’t mind your watch being two minutes off.
How Many Turns Per Day?
If you do get a winder for your Rolex, set it to 650 turns per day, bidirectional. Some automatic watches from other brands have rotors that only wind the watch in one direction and may need a different amount of turns. Patek Philippe‘s caliber 324 S C movement should only be wound counterclockwise, for instance. Make sure to program your winder appropriately.
So What’s Wrong With Winders?
WatchProSite user Walter2 notes that “My watchmaker says these machines destroy the movement if they make too many turns.” I’ve had a similar experience; once my Submariner needed a service (ahead of schedule, probably thanks to the winder I used at the time) and as soon as the watchmaker popped it on the Timegrapher he chuckled at the poor results. “Oh you keep this on a winder, ha!” I don’t anymore. To me, unless you have a watch that is a real hassle to set, using a watch winder is a recipe for servicing your watches sooner.
Watch Winder Pros and Cons
Pros | Cons |
Keeps your watch wound | Good ones aren’t cheap |
Particularly useful for perpetual calendars, non-quickset dates etc. | Tends to accelerate wear and tear |
Are Watch Winders Good for the Movement?
No, the idea that winders are somehow “good for the movement” is a persistent myth. Nowadays, with the wonders of synthetic oils, it’s not as important to run watches regularly as it was in the early 1990’s. There is absolutely no harm in letting a watch run out of power reserve and come to a stop. You can just give the watch a few dozen manual winds when it’s time to wear it.
The Best Winder
I usually say your wrist is the best watch winder. Lots of people seem to like Wolf winders but there are even more expensive ones, too. The main thing is to not waste your time with a cheap watch winder. With a dirt-cheap AliExpress winder, you’re going to get a cheap motor, and cheap motors are noisy and unreliable. You and your luxury watches deserve better. If you must get a watch winder, I recommend spending at least $400.
More on Wristwatch Fundamentals:
Types of Watches: A Simple Guide
Wristwatch History: A Timeline of Horological Firsts
What is a Dive Watch?
What is a GADA Watch?
What is a Tourbillon Watch?