Quick Guide to the Thinnest Watches in the World: Bulgari, Piaget, and Everyone Else

Powerfunk Tuesday, April 23rd, 2024 5 min. read

This century, the mechanical watch world has advanced greatly in terms of power reserves, magnetic resistance, and insanely complicated tourbillons. But arguably the horological domain with the most notable breakthroughs, since 2011 in particular, has been ultra-thin watches. Here we’ll give you a quick guide to the thinnest watch in each major category (spoiler alert: Bulgari dominates), and also provide a timeline of major thinness advancements.

Three of the thinnest watches

To put things in perspective, in 2011, the slimmest automatic tourbillon watch in the world was 10.4mm thick. By 2018, Bulgari had smashed that record with a 3.95mm Octo Finissimo model. That also means an automatic tourbillon from 2018 was thinner than the thinnest mechanical watch, period, that existed in early 2013.

Later in 2013, a 3.65mm time-only Piaget was blowing minds, but by 2025 Bulgari was making tourbillon watches half as thick as that! When it comes to production watches, the current thinness champ is Bulgari’s 1.7mm Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. But a Konstantin Chaykin prototype called the ThinKing is even thinner at 1.65mm. Let’s take a look at all the major current record holders.

Thinnest Watches in the World by Category

CategoryThicknessWatchYear
Thinnest Quartz Watch0.98mmDelirium IV (unwearably delicate)1980
Thinnest Mechanical Watch (Prototype)1.65mmKonstantin Chaykin Wristmons ThinKing2024
Thinnest Production Mechanical Watch1.70mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC2024
Thinnest Tourbillon1.85mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon2025
Thinnest Automatic Watch (And Thinnest Automatic Tourbillon)3.95mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic2017
Thinnest Minute Repeater6.85mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater2016
Thinnest Chronograph (and Thinnest GMT)6.90mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT2019
Thinnest Perpetual Calendar5.80mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar2021
Thinnest Dive Watch Rated to 200m6.80mmNOVE Trident E001-02 (Quartz)2019
Thinnest Tourbillon Chronograph7.40mmBulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph2020
Thinnest Minute Repeater Tourbillon7.90mmJaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon2013
Thinnest Flyback Chronograph8.24mmPiaget Ultra-Thin Chronograph2014
Thinnest Split-Seconds Chronograph (Rattrapante)8.45mmPatek Philippe 5959 Split-Seconds Chronograph2005
Thinnest Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater10.44mmVacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar2019
Thinnest watches in various categories

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Thinnest Watches: The Key Players

While Bulgari and Piaget are the most dominant players in the ultra-slim luxury watch game, they’re far from the only ones playing it. Their achievements are even more impressive when you consider the brands they’re competing with. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Jubilee only held the title of “thinnest mechanical watch” for a few months in 2013 before Piaget took it. Audemars Piguet released the thinnest perpetual calendar in the world in 2019 at 6.3mm, while Richard Mille’s 1.75mm-thick UP-01 FERRARI set the overall record for mechanicals in 2022. In both cases, Bulgari broke the record within about two years. Bulgari unveiled the current thinnest mechanical watch in the world just before Watches and Wonders 2024, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, measuring just 1.70mm high. Then at Geneva Watch Days 2024, Konstantin Chaykin unexpectedly broke the record yet again with their 1.65mm Wristmons ThinKing, although it’s a one-of-one prototype for now.

  • Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Thin COSC
  • Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing

Arguably just as impressive as Chaykin’s ThinKing and Bulgari’s Ultra COSC model is Piaget’s 2.0mm tourbillon watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. 2.0mm thick, with a tourbillon! That would’ve been completely unthinkable not long ago. Ultra-slim mechanical watches are almost all quite expensive, but Nomos certainly deserves some credit for being the first brand to make an automatic watch with a full-size rotor under 7mm thick–and for under $5,000, no less. Their Neomatik movement, released in 2015, is only 3.2mm thick. Impressive, but we should keep in mind that the microrotor-equipped automatic Piaget 12P movement was only 2.3mm…in 1960.

Thinnest flyback chronograph watch in the world
The Piaget Ultra-Thin Chronograph was the thinnest chronograph in the world upon its release, and it’s still the thinnest flyback.

Piaget was the original king of the thin watch game, having made a 2.0mm-thick manual-wind movement in 1957. That record stood until 1976, when Jean Lassale released their innovative 1.2mm Caliber 1200. But Jean Lassale went bankrupt like most luxury wristwatch brands of that era, and ultra-thin watchmaking didn’t become a major industry focus again until the 2010’s.

Notably, Vacheron Constantin holds the record for both thinnest minute repeater perpetual calendar, while Patek Philippe makes the thinnest split-seconds chronograph. Admittedly, there aren’t a ton of brands making those complications to begin with. So many records have been broken and re-broken in recent years that it can be hard to keep them straight, so we’ve made a timeline.

Timeline: World Records (2011-Present)

YearBrandModelCategoryThickness
2011PiagetEmperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-ThinThinnest automatic tourbillon10.4mm
2011PiagetAltiplanoThinnest automatic watch5.25mm
2013Jaeger-LeCoultreMaster Ultra-Thin JubileeThinnest mechanical watch4.05mm
2013PiagetAltiplano Ultimate 900PThinnest mechanical watch3.65mm
2014BulgariOcto Finissimo TourbillonThinnest tourbillon5.00mm
2014Jaeger-LeCoultreMaster Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying TourbillonThinnest minute repeater tourbillon7.90mm
2014BulgariOcto Finissimo TourbillonThinnest tourbillon5.00mm
2014PiagetUltra-Thin ChronographThinnest chronograph8.24mm
2015Jaeger-LeCoultreMaster Ultra Thin SqueletteThinnest mechanical watch3.60mm
2015NomosTangente NeomatikThinnest full-rotor automatic watch6.90mm
2016BulgariOcto Finissimo Minute RepeaterThinnest minute repeater6.85mm
2017BulgariOcto Finissimo AutomaticThinnest automatic watch5.15mm
2017PiagetAltiplano Ultimate Automatic 910PThinnest automatic watch4.30mm
2018BulgariOcto Finissimo Tourbillon AutomaticThinnest automatic watch, thinnest automatic tourbillon3.95mm
2018PiagetAltiplano Ultimate ConceptThinnest mechanical watch2.00mm
2019Vacheron ConstantinLes Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual CalendarThinnest perpetual calendar8.10mm
2019Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra ThinThinnest perpetual calendar6.30mm
2021BulgariOcto Finissimo Perpetual CalendarThinnest perpetual calendar5.80mm
2022BulgariOcto Finissimo UltraThinnest mechanical watch1.80mm
2022BulgariOcto Finissimo Chronograph GMTThinnest chronograph, thinnest GMT5.80mm
2022Richard MilleRM UP-01Thinnest mechanical watch1.75mm
2024BulgariOcto Finissimo Ultra COSCThinnest mechanical watch1.80mm
2024PiagetAltiplano Ultimate Concept TourbillonThinnest tourbillon2.00mm
2024Konstantin ChaykinKonstantin Chaykin Wristmon ThinKingThinnest mechanical watch1.65mm
Thinnest watch world records from 2011-present

How Many World Records Does Bulgari Have?

Thinnest watch with chronograph or GMT: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is both the world’s thinnest mechanical chronograph, and the thinnest GMT.

Bulgari currently holds the world record for thinness in nine key categories, held by six different Octo Finissimo models (when you see two records for the same year, that’s the same watch):

  1. Thinnest minute repeater (2016)
  2. Thinnest automatic (2017)
  3. Thinnest automatic tourbillon (2017)
  4. Thinnest chronograph (2019)
  5. Thinnest GMT (2019)
  6. Thinnest tourbillon chronograph (2020)
  7. Thinnest perpetual calendar (2021)
  8. Thinnest production mechanical (2024)
  9. Thinnest chronometer (2024)

It will be interesting to see if Konstantin Chaykin will make any production models that surpass these records. Maybe JLC, Richard Mille and AP will try to recapture some of their records, or perhaps Piaget and Bulgari will go for even more. The way the luxury watch industry has been going, I expect I’ll need to update this article regularly.

More about the brands in this article:
Bulgari Watch Price Guide
Five of The Best Piaget Watches
Understanding Richard Mille Rafael Nadal Watches
Jaeger LeCoultre Introduces New Duometre Line at Watches and Wonders 2024
All About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

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