Rolex engineers its products to last as long as possible, and their choice of materials reflects that–from ceramic bezel inserts to lacquer paints that don’t fade. And because stainless steel watch hands and hour markers have a tendency to slightly corrode over time, Rolex even uses solid 18k gold for their hands and markers so they maintain their luster indefinitely. However, this can give some Muslim men pause, as wearing gold is considered Haram (forbidden) for men. The prohibition against gold for men in some interpretations within Islam can vary. Some Muslims may think a steel Submariner is a Halal Rolex, as the trace amounts of gold involved aren’t “adorning” them in the sense they feel is prohibited, while others may view that same watch as a Haram Rolex because it has gold on it, period. We’re not here to tell you how to interpret the Quran, but if you’d prefer to seek a Rolex with no gold whatsoever, we’ll explain how to identify vintage gold-free models so you can find a Rolex Halal (permissible) to your standards.
Do All Rolexes Contain Gold?
Since about 1979, Rolex has used gold for all their watch hands. Gold hour markers were phased in a few years after that. This was a practical decision on Rolex’s part, as gold won’t corrode.
Even my stainless steel Sub has gold circles around the lume. I try to keep away from gold as well, but from an Islamic point of view I think a certain amount of gold is permissible.
Reddit user Present-Ad-9749
Of course, not all Muslim men feel that way, and that’s OK. If you want to avoid gold entirely, your best bet for a Halal Rolex is one from before 1979.
How Do I Tell How Old a Rolex Is?
A common way to approximate the age of a Rolex is to look at its serial number. Rolex serial numbers for models made before 2012 were fairly predictable, so you can use the serial to estimate if the watch is from before 1979. But remember, 1979 is just a guideline–you can’t just say “this serial number looks like it’s from 1978; I’m good!” You also should look closely with your eyes for signs of pitting (corrosion) on the watch hands.
Some Spotting on the Hands? Probably a Halal Rolex
Gold hands are very unlikely to have any spotting. Even though Rolex uses quality stainless steel, on most vintage Rolexes with steel hands, if you look very closely you can see some signs of pitting. It’s nothing to worry about, but it does mean you can be reasonably confident that you’re looking at a Halal Rolex.
Avoid “Sigma Dials”
Although gold hands became universal on the Rolex lineup sometime around 1979, Rolex had been experimenting with solid gold hands and markers on some of their models for several years before that. Look at the bottom of the dial, where it says “SWISS.” If it’s surrounded by weird-looking lowercase o’s (as in “σ T SWISS T σ”), those are actually lowercase sigmas. In the Rolex world, a sigma dial indicates solid gold hands and hour markers. So basically, “σ” is a sure sign of a Haram Rolex, but a lack of “σ” doesn’t necessarily mean a Halal Rolex.
Halal Rolex Watches: In Conclusion
That’s pretty much all there is to it. Look for a steel Rolex from before 1979, look for some (hopefully very slight) signs of corrosion on the hands, avoid sigma dials, and you’ve got yourself a Halal Rolex. And if you ever get your watch serviced, make it known that you do not want your hands or dial replaced with modern service replacements. Happy hunting!
More on Rolex:
Best Alternatives to the Rolex Daytona
Rolex and Nickel Allergies: What’s the Deal?
Rolex Myths, Lies, and Almost-Firsts
The Rolex Waiting List: How Does it Work, and is it Getting Better?
What is the Best Entry-Level Rolex?