Rolex uses a high grade of stainless steel known as 904L. It’s more expensive than the industry-standard 316L, and some people are under the impression that 904L is more scratch-resistant. In fact, 904L is slightly less scratch-resistant than 316L, but it is more corrosion-resistant. 904L–which Rolex now calls “Oystersteel” in its marketing–gains its exceptional anti-corrosive properties from its increased levels of both molybdenum and nickel. And if your skin is sensitive to nickel, the high nickel content in 904L steel can cause irritation–especially when sweat is involved. For those with nickel allergies who want to own a steel Rolex, there are essentially three options–a strap that goes behind the caseback (like a NATO), a vintage Rolex made with lower-nickel steel, or a lotion/spray product that acts as a barrier.
Option 1: Buy a Purpose-Made Coating
Products like Nickel Guard are designed to be applied to the watch (or any jewelry) to create a barrier between the nickel and the skin. Other products, like Skintifique Protective Cream HPS, go directly on the skin. Once it dries, the lotion present on the skin should be sufficient to absorb any tiny nickel particles resulting from contact with the caseback. Plenty of nickel-sensitive customers are satisfied with these products, but some would rather buy a new strap than use a cream coating for their luxury watch.
Option 2: NATO Strap (or Similar)
NATO straps have become increasingly popular with watch enthusiasts in the past decade or two. While many once regarded NATOs on Rolexes as cheap abominations (and some still do), that sentiment is much less common now. Many luxury watch brands, like Tudor and Omega, have offered watches with these straps from the factory.
NATO straps are made of a piece of fabric that threads through both spring bars of the watch, with an additional layer of material behind the watch to act as a failsafe. If one spring bar fails, the extra layer prevents the watch from sliding off the wrist completely because the strap is still secured to the other spring bar. Because the strap will be touching your wrist instead of the caseback, nickel allergies should become a nonissue.
A “single-pass strap”–basically like a NATO without the extra security layer–would also provide the same benefit for nickel-sensitive watch fans. Zulu straps are a popular (and very thick) type of single-pass strap. Sometimes, watch fans colloquially refer to all single-pass fabric watch straps as NATOs, although that’s not technically correct. And if you want some 1970’s vibes to go with your nickel allergy, a Bund strap is also an option for a barrier between the caseback and the wrist. After all, Paul Newman’s $17.75-million Daytona was sold on a Bund.
Option 3: Avoid the Rolex Nickel Allergy Issue by Going Vintage
Rolex first began using 904L steel on the Submariner Date reference 168000 in the mid-1980’s. It was phased into the rest of their lineup by 1988. So, if you see a steel Rolex from before 1988 (or before 1985 if it’s a Sub Date), it shouldn’t cause any nickel allergy issues. Although 316L does contain nickel, it’s only about half as much nickel as 904L, and causes irritation much more rarely. Before 316L, Rolex used 304L–which contains even less nickel. Rolex’s transition between 304L and 316L is not well-documented, though it probably took place in the mid-1960’s.
Aside from buying a solid gold or platinum model, those are pretty much the options for a would-be Rolex owner with a nickel allergy. If you’re a watch enthusiast with a nickel allergy, feel free to share your experiences in the comments!