Hands-On Review of the Patek Philippe 5980 “Denim” Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph White Gold 5980/60G-001 | White Gold | 40.5mm Width | Released: 2024 | MSRP: $81,310 | Market Value $185,000 | Defining Feature: Denim-inspired strap
If you’re looking for the ultimate “rich dad flex” watch, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph White Gold 5980/60G-001, with its blue-jeans-inspired strap, would go perfectly with a fresh pair of New Balance 407’s. I’ve been fortunate enough to try one on, so let’s talk about this Patek Denim Nautilus in detail.
Patek Philippe 5980 “Denim”: Case, Dial, and Design Breakdown
The Nautilus 5980 “Denim,” crafted in solid white gold, was among the 2024 Patek Philippe releases. It has your classic Patek Philippe Nautilus case, which is 40.5mm wide and 12.2mm thick.
I love the blue jean-like color of the dial, and its embossed horizontal bar pattern.
This model has white gold applied hour markers and luminous-coated hands. The in-house automatic CH 28-520 C/522 movement provides 55 hours of power reserve and flyback chronograph functionality. Its 60-minute counter is placed cleverly around the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and interestingly, the 5980 has no running seconds hand–so it’s an extremely clean layout for a 12-hour chronograph. You can watch its movement tick 28,800 times per hour through the exhibition caseback.
Wrist Presence & Comfort
I thought this watch would be a bit top-heavy, and it somewhat is. But if the strap is on tight enough, I actually like the heft. I think it’s cool that it feels heavier than its steel counterpart, and if you’re not a fan of top-heavy watches, you’re probably not a “strap person” in general.
A lot of people have concerns about the denim strap. Well, this “denim” strap is really just denim-inspired; it’s textured calfskin. And is it a little bit stiff? Yes, it is–but so is every other Nautilus strap, except perhaps for some rubber options they offered for the rose gold 5980 back in the day. The thing is, over time, the stiffness goes away. You wear this thing like a pair of nice leather shoes.
Price
MSRP of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph White Gold 5980/60G-001 “Denim” is $81,310, if you can manage to get one from an authorized dealer. If you’re not an established VIP, though, getting a Patek Denim Nautilus from a AD is very tough to do–which is why secondary market price is around $185,000. Let’s cover all the specs now.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 “Denim” Specs
| Model Name | Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph |
| Reference Number | 5980/60G-001 |
| Case Material | 18k White Gold |
| Case Dimensions | Width: 40.5 mm Thickness: 12.2 mm |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Movement Caliber | CH 28-520 C/522 (automatic, 8 beats per second) |
| Movement Functions | Flyback chronograph, date, hours, minutes |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Blue-gray denim-pattern calfskin strap; optional composite fabric strap |
| MSRP (May 2025) | $81,310 |
| Market Value (May 2025) | ~$185,000 |
In Conclusion
The last time I was excited about a jean watch was actually a ladies’ Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore known as “The Jean,” ref. 26113ST.ZZ.D030CR.01. While it had the coloring, it didn’t really have the texture that the Patek Denim Nautilus has. The texture on this Nautilus strap actually looks like they chopped up a pair of jeans. For me personally, I’m a guy that wears jeans all the time, so this is a perfect choice. But it may not be for everybody, and the 30m water resistance doesn’t exactly scream “beach day.”
So, who is this watch really for? It’s not your first watch, or even your first Nautilus. It’s for a collector who has a lot of serious watches already, and wants something playful. If you gave me a choice between an old rose gold Nautilus chronograph, a steel one, or the 5980/60G, it would be a tough choice. Right now, I’d probably go with the Denim because it feels fresh and interesting.
The 5980 reference has been made for many years, and they completely changed the feel just by putting on a different strap and changing the color of the dial. This Denim Nautilus may scare off some Patek purists–it’s not exactly a standard look for a watch–but I’m definitely impressed by it. If you have the means, and the confidence to wear a luxury watch with “dad jeans” vibes, I highly recommend it. Would you rock the denim, or is this too much? Let me know in the comments!
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