The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin: Past and Present

At LVMH Watch Week 2025, the reborn Gérald Genta brand unveiled the fourth iteration of their Gentissima Oursin collection, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal, featuring a carnelian stone dial. Oursin is French for “sea urchin,” and the name immediately makes sense when you look at the watch and the spiky adornments on its case. Previously, three Gentissima Oursin models were released in June 2024. But Gerald Genta himself actually designed the original Oursin after vacationing with his family in 1994, and even made a special one just for his wife. Here’s our quick guide to the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin.

Gérald Genta Brand History

Gérald Genta founded his eponymous watch brand in 1969, but for many years his most notable contributions were for other brands. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, Credor Locomotive, Cartier Pasha, and numerous other Genta designs have helped shaped the luxury watch world today. By the 1980’s, the Gérald Genta brand was starting to hit its stride, with innovations like the world’s first bronze watch, the world’s thinnest minute repeater wristwatch (at the time), and the then-new concept of high-end luxury Disney collabs.

The 1990’s is when Genta was really on top, arguably. If you were a wealthy luxury watch nerd back then, wearing a Gérald Genta was similar to wearing an F.P. Journe now. A Genta watch was, simply, the balls. SJX called the Genta Grande Sonnerie “the mega-watch of the 1990’s.”

Genta sold his majority stake in the brand in 1996 to the Horology Hour, an Asian luxury retail chain, and Bulgari bought 100% of the brand (along with Daniel Roth) in 2000. The brand was never really the same again, and there was an odd phase around 2010 when “Gérald Genta” was being written on the bottom of certain Bulgari dials, rather than being used as its own marque.

LVMH bought Bulgari in 2011, and they officially reorganized and revived Gérald Genta as a standalone brand in April 2023. LVMH-owned La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is the division actually making these watches. The only model (so far) released by this iteration of Gérald Genta is a remake of the Gentissima Oursin.

The Original Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin

Genta did design quite a few ladies’ watches, but most were smaller designs of larger models–like some ladies’ versions of his famous Omega Constellation C-Case models, for instance. But he did design a notable ladies’ bangle watch. And in 1994, Genta introduced the Gentissima Oursin, with hidden lugs and circular cases covered in urchin-like “spikes” made of gold and/or gems.

“He was very much inspired by nature,” Evelyne Genta says of her late husband. “He loved to look at structure, and we always had people fishing for oursin, and I think it was that idea–not long spikes, but short spikes–that inspired him.” She described it as “a watch that can have many, many different realizations,” and as you can see above, the original 36mm Oursin was indeed made in some very different configurations. All came on metal bracelets, with rows of bumps on the center link.

“The Oursin was among Gérald’s few creations that he was proudest of,” adds Mrs. Genta. “He actually almost didn’t want to sell them, and produced only very few for very close friends and clients.” That appears to be an understatement–I can’t find a single sales listing or auction of a 1990’s Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin, ever. I can’t even find a single photo anywhere on the internet of anyone wearing a 1990’s Oursin, except for the maestro’s wife herself. Here she is comparing her own original one-of-a-kind Oursin chronograph (made especially for her) with a 2024 model.

“I think he would have been very pleased with it,” says Mrs. Genta of the re-release. Let’s take a closer look at these newer Gerald Genta Oursin models.

2024-2025: The Modern Oursin

The modern Gerald Genta Oursin era began in June 2024 with the release of three titanium-case models. The case only grew by 0.5mm to 36.5mm, and visually, they’re very faithful to the original Gerald Genta Oursin. “You know it’s an Oursin, but at the same time, a slightly younger version–more modern, a bit flatter,” adds Mrs. Genta.

There are three main changes in my opinion. First of all, the metal bracelets are gone in favor of calfskin or alligator straps. Secondly, there’s an exhibition caseback (and the movement looks great). And the most interesting update in my opinion is the faceted sapphire crystal, which has been given a cool octagonal shape. Quite unique.

A “Fire Opal Edition” with a yellow gold case is set to debut in May 2025. It will be the most expensive Gerald Genta Oursin yet, while the cheapest is the “Anthracite” model, with a list price of about $24,300. Here are all the details:

Modern Gerald Genta Oursin Specs

Specification	Anthracite	Pink	Black	Fire Opal
Case Material	Grade 5 titanium	Grade 5 titanium	DLC-coated grade 5 titanium	Yellow gold
Year Released	2024	2024	2024	2025
Case Dimensions	Diameter: 36.5mm Thickness: 9.6mm	Diameter: 36.5mm Thickness: 9.6mm	Diameter: 36.5mm Thickness: 9.6mm	Diameter: 36.5mm Thickness: 9.6mm
Water Resistance	30 meters	30 meters	30 meters	30 meters
Dial	Dark grey guilloché brass	Pink mother-of-pearl with guilloché	Black brass	Orange carnelian
Movement	GG-005 (Zenith Elite base, automatic, 8 beats per second)	GG-005 (Zenith Elite base, automatic, 8 beats per second)	GG-005 (Zenith Elite base, automatic, 8 beats per second)	GG-005 (Zenith Elite base, automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve	50 hours	50 hours	50 hours	50 hours
“Spikes”	223 Polished white gold beads	223 Rose-gold-rimmed diamonds	223 Yellow gold spikes	137 Fire opal-tipped gold nubs
Crystal	Sapphire crystal	Sapphire crystal	Sapphire crystal	Sapphire crystal
Strap Options	Anthracite calfskin leather	Pink calfskin leather	Black alligator leather	Black alligator leather
MSRP (2025)	CHF 22,000	CHF 32,000	CHF 25,000	On Request

Final Thoughts

For fans of Gérald Genta’s work, the reimagined Oursin offers an opportunity to own a striking modern watch with some authentic 1990’s Genta DNA. But undoubtedly some watch enthusiasts were hoping for at least one men’s model from the reborn brand. We’ll keep an eye out for more 2025 Gérald Genta releases, but for now, it seems like LVMH has them on a one-model-at-a-time strategy, similarly to how they’re treating Daniel Roth. If you want one, you should probably reach out to one of Gerald Genta’s few retail partners soon.