Quick Guide to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat

By the 1980’s, Daniel Roth was a notable force in the watchmaking world, particularly known for his high complications like tourbillons and perpetual calendars, and the guilloche dial work that he brought back to the Breguet brand before starting his own brand in 1988. The Extra Plat (which means “extra flat” in French–nothing to do with platinum) was notable for being his first time-only model. Made during the “golden era” of Daniel Roth (1990-1995), it featured the same signature Ellipsocurvex case as Roth’s tourbillon models, but the simpler layout allowed the intricate guilloché dial work to take center stage. In over 20 years as a Bulgari subsidiary, Daniel Roth never released an Extra Plat, but they’ve been their own LVMH-owned company since 2023. Two impressive gold Daniel Roth Extra Plat models were released in 2025, and they certainly meet (or exceed) the standards of the original. Here’s our quick guide to all the Daniel Roth Ultra Thin models.

Daniel Roth Extra Plat History

Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat story began in 1990 with the C107, a 35mm, 6.7 mm‑thick two-hand automatic in yellow, white, pink gold, or platinum, powered by the ultra‑slim Frédéric Piguet 71. The rotor on the FP 71, interestingly, is off-center. In 1991, the Extra Plat line expanded with the smaller, 6mm‑thick manual‑wind C167 using the famed Frédéric Piguet 21.

An automatic 26mm ladies’ model, C157, also soon appeared. You could choose diamonds covering the entire case, diamonds on the lugs and bezel, or no diamonds at all.

By 1993, some men’s Extra Plats adopted open casebacks. Note that for whatever reason, you can find the 1990’s model numbers listed with either a “2” or a “C” at the start. So, C107 and 2107 are the same thing, for example.

While the classic Daniel Roths were all typically made in precious metals, an Italian watch distributor specially requested 40 in stainless steel. According to Monochrome, 10 of those were C107 Extra Plat models.

The Transition Years

The Hour Glass, a Singaporean luxury watch retailer, bought the Daniel Roth brand in 1994, and they replaced some guilloche dials with stamped ones and formally added some cheaper stainless steel models to the lineup. They also made an ugly quartz GMT, but the Daniel Roth brand continued on mostly respectably for a few years, with a highlight being the Papillon jump hours watch of the late 1990s. But when Bulgari bought the Daniel Roth company in 2000, Mr. Roth left soon after, and collectors seem to unanimously agree that a bit of a dark period followed. There was a weird wannabe-Hublot, for instance. There were also some decent chronographs and time-only models, to be fair, but not a single Extra Plat in that time period.

By 2023, LVMH (who owns Bulgari) had decided to move Daniel Roth up a tier to be their “own” brand directly under the LVMH umbrella, and that seems to have been the right move. The actual production of Daniel Roth watches is the responsibility of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, a top-notch watchmaking firm and movement supplier that Louis Vuitton acquired in 2011 (and appended their name to in 2014).

But before we look at the modern models in more detail, let’s go over a quick timeline of every Daniel Roth Extra Plat release so far.

Timeline of Daniel Roth Extra Plat Models

Year	Model	Diameter	Thickness	Description
1990	C107 Extra Plat	35 mm	6.7 mm	First time-only automatic Extra Plat, powered by Frederic Piguet Calibre 71; released in yellow, white, and pink gold, and platinum.
1991	C167 Extra Plat Manual	31.4 mm	6 mm	Smaller manual-wind Extra Plat using Frederic Piguet Calibre 21, a movement used in many of the thinnest watches of its era. Exhibition casebacks appear by 1993 or so.
1991	C157 Extra Plat Ladies’	26 mm	7.9 mm	Automatic Extra Plat in a smaller configuration aimed at the women’s market, diamond options available
2025	DBBE01A1 Extra Plat Souscription	35.5 mm	7.7 mm	Modern rebirth in yellow gold with a new movement and hobnail dial and closed caseback
2025	DBBD01A1 Extra Plat Rose Gold	35.5 mm	7.7 mm	Linear guilloché dial, exhibition caseback

2025 Daniel Roth Extra Plat Releases

In January 2025, at LVMH Watch Week, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription revived the concept in yellow gold with a modern movement and hobnail dial. There were no huge surprises: the double ellipse case is of course present, and its 35.5mm width is only 0.5mm larger than the original C107. The beautiful handmade guilloché dial textures are exactly what we want from the Daniel Roth brand.

The yellow gold (“Souscription”) model features a Clou de Paris (or “hobnail”) texture, while the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold that debuted four months later has a linear vertical pattern similar to a Rolex tapestry dial (but handmade guilloche instead of stamped). Both have been used by the brand extensively over the years. The mouse cursor-like pointer hands are also a signature aesthetic of Daniel Roth. There is no seconds hand on any Extra Plat.

The solid caseback of the yellow gold version seems to pay tribute to the original Daniel Roth Extra Plat models. Sapphire casebacks have gotten thinner in recent years, and the 2025 Daniel Roth Extra Plat is 7.7mm thick whether you choose the yellow gold version or the newer rose gold version, which features an exhibition caseback.

That’s actually 1mm thicker than the original, so it’s not exactly one of the thinnest watches in the world, but it’s still very slim by any reasonable standard. Let’s go over all the details.

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Specs

Model	Extra Plat Souscription	Extra Plat Rose Gold	Original Extra Plat	Original Manual Extra Plat	Ladies’ Extra Plat
Reference	DBBE01A1	DBBD01A1	C107	C167	C157
Year Debuted	2025	2025	1990	1991	1991
Case Material	Yellow gold 3N	Rose gold 5N	Usually 18k gold or platinum, rarely stainless steel	18k gold or platinum	18k gold with or without diamonds on case and/or lugs/bezel
Case Dimensions	Diameter: 35.5mm Thickness: 7.7mm Lug to lug: 38.6mm	Diameter: 35.5mm Thickness: 7.7mm Lug to lug: 38.6mm	Diameter: 35mm Thickness: 6.7mm Lug to lug: 38mm	Diameter: 31.5mm Thickness: 6.5mm Lug to lug: 34.5mm	Diameter: 26mm Thickness: 7.9mm Lug to lug: 28.9mm
Movement Caliber	DR002 – manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding	DR002 – manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding	Frederic Piguet Calibre 71, automatic	Frederic Piguet Calibre 21, manual wind	Automatic
Power Reserve	65 hours	65 hours	48 hours	40 hours	40 hours
Water Resistance	30m	30m	30m	30m	30m
Bracelet/Strap Info	Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle	Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle	Alligator strap with pin buckle	Alligator strap with pin buckle	Alligator strap with pin buckle
Caseback	Solid	Exhibition	Usually solid, rarely exhibition	Usually solid, rarely exhibition	Exhibition
Limited Edition	20 pieces	Not limited; first 20 numbered	Not limited except for steel (10 pieces)	Not limited	Not limited
Market Value (2025)	$70,000	$70,000	$33,000 (Gold) $50,000 (Platinum) $125,000 (Steel)	$30,000	$26,000

Price/Availability

The 2025 Daniel Roth Extra Plat lists for $65,000 in rose gold, and its true market value might even be a touch above that. Most 1990s versions are closer to $30,000 pre-owned today, except for platinum ones which are significantly rarer and thus costlier. The Souscription, as name implies, utilized the “souscription model“–meaning you paid a deposit and waited. Only 20 pieces were made, with a price tag of 45,000 CHF.

While the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is not technically a limited edition, expect extremely limited output regardless. The first 20 will be numbered.

When Daniel Roth was under the Bulgari brand, their output was much higher, but ever since putting Daniel Roth under the guidance of La Fabrique du Temps in 2023, LVMH is treating Daniel Roth as a very exclusive brand. I think it’s interesting that they’re not even trying to make a whole “lineup” with this brand–the rose gold Extra Plat and three tourbillon models are the only Daniel Roth models currently produced. And that’s not a bad thing.