In another shocking turn, Patek Philippe has launched a new version of the Nautilus 5990/1A featuring a brand new blue dial.
The Original Nautilus 5990/1A
Earlier this year, Patek Philippe discontinued the 5990/1A. The news came as a bit of a shock to the watch-collecting community and was entirely unexpected.
Naturally, this sent the price of this model soaring on the secondary market. It went from trading around the $130,000-$150,000 range to over $250,000 in less than a month. It was a stunning turn for a model that was one of the more under-appreciated Nautilus models overall.
The New Nautilus 5990/1A
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A was launched in 2014 and was the most complicated Nautilus ever made featuring both a flyback chronograph and travel time complication. It’s also the largest Nautilus made with a case diameter of 40.5mm and a case thickness of 12.53mm.
This watch combines the best aspects of the discreet travel time complication of the 5164 Aquanaut and the flyback chronograph functionality of the 5980 – Patek’s first in-house chronograph movement when it was launched in 2006 – in a format that is incredibly distinct in the Nautilus line.
At 12 o’clock you can find a sub-dial that shows the current date and at 6 o’clock is where you can find a 60-minute counter for the chronograph. The dial, although busier than most Nautilus models, features a symmetry to it that helps tone down its business overall.
The dial color was a gradient black that has a grayish hue at its center and featured the typical Nautilus dial grooves that add a lot of depth and character to the dial overall.
The new version of the 5990/1A features the same steel case and integrated bracelet, the same case diameter and thickness, the same dial layout and the same self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS.
However, the latest update to the 5990/1A is the dial which has gone from a gradient black to now a sunburst blue with what Patek calls a black-gradient rim. The dial features white gold applied hour indices and white gold hands that are lume filled.
It also features the same ridges in the dial. The watch is self-winding and has a power reserve of 45-55 hours. However, this watch also features Patek Philippe’s updated butterfly clasp that also has Patek’s new clasp adjustment system – a great upgrade for anyone who lives in warmer climates and wants bracelets that will expand as your wrist swells from heat and humidity.
The original version of the 5990/1A had a retail price of $59,140 USD which was the most expensive steel Nautilus made by Patek Philippe – which makes sense as it is also the most complicated Nautilus. However, this new version of Patek Philippe’s 5990/1A with the blue dial carries a retail price of $68,603.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A Specifications:
Case Diameter: | 40.5mm |
Case Thickness: | 12.53mm |
Case Metal: | Brushed and Polished Steel |
Bracelet Metal: | Brushed and Polished Steel |
Dial: | Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed, gold applied hour indices and gold hands that are lume filled |
Movement: | Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS ⇒ In-House Movement stamped with Patek Philippe’s Seal – 34 Jewels, 370 components |
Power Reserve: | 45-55 hours |
Complications: | Hours, minutes, date, central chronograph hand, flyback chronograph, travel time, local and home time indicator, 60 minutes chronograph counter |
Price: | $68,603 USD |
See the complete list of watches released by Patek Philippe in 2022 or read up on each in-depth:
Nautilus 5811/1G
Nautilus 5712/1R
Nautilus Joaillerie 7118/1300R
Patek Philippe 5204G
Patek Philippe 5373P
Patek Philippe 5935A
Aquanaut Luce 7968/300R