Patek Philippe Aquanaut Guide: Everything You Need To Know
Welcome to our Patek Philippe Aquanaut Guide — your go-to resource for understanding one of the brand’s most versatile and modern collections. First introduced in the late 1990s, the Aquanaut was designed with a younger, sportier audience in mind, combining luxury watchmaking with a more casual, contemporary feel. While it was once dismissed as the “Poor Man’s Nautilus,” the Aquanaut has since become one of Patek Philippe’s most sought-after collections — a powerhouse in its own right with prices now regularly climbing well into six-figure territory on the secondary market. In this comprehensive Aquanaut guide, we’ll break down the key design traits, notable references, and movement details that define the Aquanaut lineup, from early models to the latest releases.
Brief History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut
When Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut in 1997 with the reference 5060A, the brand was aiming for something different — a sporty, contemporary luxury watch that could attract a younger, more active generation. While the Nautilus had already established Patek’s sports watch line since the 1970s, its complex case design and integrated bracelet made it less approachable in terms of wear and price.
Enter the Aquanaut, which retained some of the Nautilus design language with a rounded octagonal bezel but introduced a more streamlined, three-part case construction (eliminated the “ears” on the side”) and a newly developed “Tropical” composite strap rather than the heavy-duty integrated bracelet. Not only was it more comfortable and pared-down but it also gave the Aquanaut a distinct identity from the start.
Despite some initial skepticism, the Aquanaut slowly but steadily grew into one of Patek Philippe’s most commercially successful lines. While the maiden model, ref. 5060A, featured a 35.6mm stainless steel case, black dial, black rubber strap, time and date functionality, and an automatic movement, the collection eventually broadened to include gold cases, metal bracelets, multiple sizes, quartz-powered models, and complications, expanding its appeal across a wider audience. Although the similar 5060J had been released in 1996, it was not a true Aquanaut, and lacked the signature dial texture and rubber strap that would come to define the lineup.
Smaller Aquanaut models for women had existed as early as 1998, but it wasn’t until 2004 that Patek formally expanded the collection with the launch of the Aquanaut Luce, a series of gem-set models featuring diamond bezels.
To mark the 10th anniversary in 2007, the men’s Aquanaut collection was refined with updated proportions and finishing, leading to references like the 5167A. The 20th anniversary in 2017 saw the debut of the 42.2mm white gold “Jumbo” 5168G — the largest Aquanaut to date at the time.
Since that 20th anniversary celebration, Patek has added even more Aquanaut models to the lineup, many of which still remain in the catalog today. What began as an experimental sports watch has flourished into one of Patek’s most important modern families, complete with chronographs, travel time complications, annual calendars, and high-jewelry executions.
Design Traits and Key Features
The Aquanaut may have drawn initial comparisons to the Nautilus, but it’s always had its own distinct personality — and that comes through clearly in the design. The case takes on a similar porthole silhouette but trades the Nautilus’s hinged construction (aka, the “ears”) for a simpler, smoother build, giving the Aquanaut a cleaner, more modern feel. The rounded octagonal bezel keeps the connection to the Gerald Genta design lineage while softening the edges.
On the dial side, the Aquanaut is defined by its embossed checkerboard pattern — often called the “grenade” motif — which adds depth and texture to the otherwise minimalist layout. Arabic numerals serve as hour markers, paired with baton-shaped hands filled with lume for legibility. Even the high-jewelry models with fully gem-set dials retain the checkerboard effect in their stone settings. Some gem-set Aquanauts do away with numerals altogether, using baguette-cut gemstones as hour markers instead.
The grenade look is mirrored on the Tropical strap, made from a durable composite material that’s water-, UV-, and abrasion-resistant — and molded with the same dial texture for visual continuity. While a few Aquanaut references feature metal bracelets, the Patek Philippe Tropical composite strap remains the collection’s signature.
In terms of power, most Aquanaut models are equipped with automatic movements, though some versions use quartz calibers.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Guide: Key Aquanaut Design Features:
- Porthole-shaped case (simplified version of the Nautilus design)
- Rounded octagonal bezel (sometimes gem-set)
- Embossed “grenade” pattern dial (some gem-set variations available)
- Arabic numeral hour markers
- Lumed baton-shaped hands
- Tropical rubber (aka composite) strap with matching embossed pattern (bracelets on select models)
- Automatic or quartz movements
- Water resistant
It’s also worth noting that while many Aquanaut models were historically rated to 120 meters of water resistance, Patek Philippe introduced a new unified standard in 2024. Going forward, all water-resistant Patek watches — including the Aquanaut — are now officially rated to 30 meters. This change doesn’t reflect a drop in performance but rather a move toward more consistent and consumer-friendly communication. According to the brand, the 30-meter rating is tested at 3 bar overpressure and is meant to cover everyday aquatic use, including swimming and even shallow diving. In short: don’t let the number fool you, the Aquanaut is still very much equipped for water.
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Aquanaut Time and Date
The foundation of the Aquanaut collection lies in its time-and-date models — no chronograph, no travel time, just straightforward functionality in the form of a trio of hands at the center and a date window at 3 o’clock, powered by an automatic movement.
Aquanaut 5167A-001 and 5167R-001
The key differences are in the materials and dial tones: the 5167A comes in steel with a charcoal to black gradient dial, while the 5167R pairs a rose gold case with a warm brown to black gradient dial. Each is powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C movement, visible through the sapphire caseback.
Introduced in 2007 and 2009, respectively, the 5167A in stainless steel and 5167R in rose gold represent the core design of the modern Aquanaut. Both feature 40.8mm cases with slim 8.1mm profiles, embossed dials that transition to black at the edges, and color-matched Tropical rubber straps.
| Model | Aquanaut Date, Sweep Seconds | Aquanaut Date, Sweep Seconds |
| Reference Number | 5167A-001 | 5167R-001 |
| Year of introduction | 2007 | 2009 |
| Case | Stainless steel 40.8mm diameter × 8.1mm thickness | Rose gold 40.8mm diameter × 8.1mm thickness |
| Dial | Black gradient dial with embossed pattern White gold numerals and baton hands with white luminescence | Brown gradient dial with embossed pattern Rose gold numerals and baton hands with white luminescence |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Black tropical composite rubber strap with stainless steel fold-over clasp | Brown tropical composite rubber strap with rose gold fold-over clasp |
| Retail Price | $25,958 | $50,927 |
More on Aquanaut Prices: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Price Guide: How Much Does an Aquanaut Cost?
Aquanaut 5168G-001 and 5168G-010 “Jumbo”
Celebrating the collection’s 20th anniversary in 2017, the 5168G expanded the Aquanaut’s proportions with a 42.2mm case for a heftier wrist presence — affectionately known as the “Jumbo” Aquanaut.
This white gold model is offered in two colorways: the original 5168G-001 with a blue-to-black gradient dial and strap, and the 5168G-010 in khaki green — an unexpected take introduced in 2019. Both are powered by the same Caliber 26-330 S C movement and feature the signature embossed dial and matching Tropical straps.
| Model | Aquanaut Date, Sweep Seconds “Jumbo” | Aquanaut Date, Sweep Seconds “Jumbo” |
| Reference Number | 5168G-001 | 5168G-010 |
| Year of Introduction | 2017 | 2019 |
| Case | White gold 42.2mm diameter × 8.25mm thickness | White gold 42.2mm diameter × 8.25mm thickness |
| Dial | Gradient blue dial with embossed pattern White gold numerals and hands with white lume | Khaki green dial with embossed pattern White gold numerals and hands with white lume |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Blue tropical composite rubber strap with white gold fold-over clasp | Khaki green tropical composite rubber strap with white gold fold-over clasp |
| Retail Price | $55,007 | $55,007 |
Aquanaut Chronograph
In 2018, Patek Philippe introduced the first Aquanaut Chronograph, a natural next step for a collection that’s always leaned sporty. Measuring 42.2mm in diameter and 11.9mm thick, these Patek chronographs retain the Aquanaut’s signature rounded octagonal case, checkerboard-pattern dial, and color-matched composite rubber straps. As expected, there is the addition of a pair of pushers flanking the winding crown to activate the chronograph.
All models are equipped with the automatic CH 28-520 C movement — a flyback chronograph caliber that combines a column wheel with a vertical clutch for smooth engagement and the ability to reset without stopping. A date window sits at 3 o’clock, and rather than using multiple registers, the Aquanaut Chronograph opts for a single 60-minute mono-counter at 6 o’clock. This counter echoes the rounded bezel shape and helps preserve the dial’s clean, uncluttered look.
Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A-001
The first Aquanaut Chronograph, the 5968A-001, launched in stainless steel with a charcoal gray embossed dial and vivid orange accents. It comes with two Tropical composite straps — one black and one bright orange — to let wearers choose between two looks.
| Model | Aquanaut Chronograph |
| Reference Number | 5968A-001 |
| Case | Stainless steel 42.2 mm × 11.9 mm thick |
| Dial | Sunburst charcoal gray with black-gradient rim Embossed Aquanaut pattern White gold numerals and hands with white luminescent coating Orange accents |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date, flyback chronograph, 60-minute counter |
| Movement | Caliber CH 28-520 C Automatic winding 45–55h power reserve |
| Strap | Black composite strap (fitted) and orange composite strap (additional); stainless steel fold-over clasp |
| Retail Price | $58,714 |
Aquanaut Chronograph 5968G-001 & 5968G-010
Patek expanded the chronograph range in 2021 with two white gold models. The 5968G-001 featured a sunburst blue dial with a black gradient rim, paired with a blue strap, while the 5968G-010 combines a khaki green dial and strap — two colorways that follow the “Jumbo” palette. Both versions maintain tone-on-tone chronograph detailing for a cohesive style.
| Model | Aquanaut Chronograph | Aquanaut Chronograph |
| Reference Number | 5968G-001 | 5968G-010 |
| Case | 18k white gold 42.2 mm × 11.9 mm thick | 18k white gold 42.2 mm × 11.9 mm thick |
| Dial | Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim Embossed Aquanaut pattern White gold numerals and hands with white lume | Khaki green Embossed Aquanaut pattern White gold numerals and hands with white lume |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date, flyback chronograph, 60-minute counter | Hours, minutes, central seconds, date, flyback chronograph, 60-minute counter |
| Movement | Caliber CH 28-520 C Automatic winding 45–55h power reserve | Caliber CH 28-520 C Automatic winding 45–55h power reserve |
| Strap | Blue composite strap 18k white gold fold-over clasp | Khaki green composite strap 18k white gold fold-over clasp |
| Retail Price | $84,549 | $84,549 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R-001
In 2023, Patek Philippe introduced the first rose gold version of the Aquanaut Chronograph. The 5968R-001 pairs a sunburst brown dial with a black-gradient rim and warm rose gold details. A matching brown composite strap and rose gold folding clasp complete the design, offering a more luxurious take on the sporty, water-ready chronograph formula.
| Model | Aquanaut Chronograph |
| Reference Number | 5968R-001 |
| Case | Rose gold 42.2 mm × 11.9 mm thick |
| Dial | Sunburst brown with black-gradient rim Embossed Aquanaut pattern Rose gold applied numerals and hands with lume |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand, 60-minute counter, date |
| Movement | Caliber CH 28-520 C Automatic winding 45–55h power reserve |
| Strap | Dark brown composite strap with rose gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Price | $84,549 |
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Aquanaut Travel Time
The Aquanaut Travel Time made its debut in 2011 with the Reference 5164A, a stainless steel model that introduced a practical dual-time complication to the collection. While the 5164A was part of the batch of discontinued Patek Philippe watches in 2024, its intuitive functionality and clean design set the template for the Aquanaut Travel Time watches that followed.
The defining feature is a pair of hour hands — one solid for local time, one skeletonized for home time — that make it easy to track two time zones at once. All models in this lineup share the same core layout: an embossed dial with applied numerals, baton-style hands, and a color-matched Tropical composite strap. The larger versions are automatic while the more compact edition is quartz powered.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001 and 5164G-001
The 5164R-001 arrived in 2016 as the first gold version of the Aquanaut Travel Time. It pairs a rose gold case with a brown sunburst dial featuring a black-gradient rim and comes fitted with a matching brown Tropical strap.
The 5164G-001 followed in 2024, offering the same dual-time functionality in a white gold case, this time paired with a blue-gray opaline dial and strap. Both models measure 40.8mm in diameter and 10.2mm thick and are equipped with the CH 26-330 S C FUS automatic movement. Local time can be adjusted in one-hour increments using two pushers on the left side of the case, and the date subdial at 6 o’clock is linked to the local time display. There are also two small day/night indicators on the dial, one for each time zone.
| Model | Aquanaut Travel Time | Aquanaut Travel Time |
| Reference Number | 5164R-001 | 5164G-001 |
| Year of Introduction | 2016 | 2024 |
| Case | 18k rose gold 40.8 mm × 10.2 mm | 18k white gold 40.8 mm × 10.2 mm |
| Dial | Sunburst brown Embossed Aquanaut pattern Rose gold numerals and baton hands with white lume White gold home time skeletonized hand | Opaline blue-gray Embossed Aquanaut pattern, white gold numerals and baton hands with white lume White gold home time skeletonized hand |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date by hand (local time), two time zones, day/night indication for both time zones | Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date by hand (local time), two time zones, day/night indication for both time zones |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S C FUS Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve | Caliber 26-330 S C FUS Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Brown composite strap 18k rose gold fold-over clasp | Blue-gray composite strap 18k white gold fold-over clasp |
| Retail Price | $68,109 | $68,109 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R-001
Also introduced in 2024, the 5269R-001 offers the Travel Time complication in a more compact and user-friendly format. Housed in a 38.8mm rose gold case with a blue-gray dial and strap, this model runs on a quartz movement (Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H) with about a three-year battery life.
The local time is adjusted via the crown instead of pushers, and while the layout is somewhat similar to the mechanical versions, it features only one day/night aperture for home time (complete with a HOME label right above it) and does not include a date display.
| Model | Aquanaut Travel Time |
| Reference Number | 5269R-001 |
| Year of Introduction | 2024 |
| Case | 18k rose gold 38.8 mm × 8.77 mm |
| Dial | Opaline blue-gray Embossed Aquanaut pattern Rose gold applied numerals and hands with white lume White gold home time skeletonized hand |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, central seconds, two time zones, day/night indicator for home time |
| Movement | Caliber E23-250 S FUS 24H Quartz 3-year battery life |
| Strap | Blue-gray composite strap 18k rose gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Price | $38,195 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Advanced Research Travel Time 5650G-001
The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut 5650G-001, a 2017 release limited to 500 pieces, is considered special for reasons far beyond just its distinctive openworked dial. Its main claim to fame is its revolutionary “compliant mechanism” for the dual time zone function. Instead of using traditional gears and pivots, this mechanism relies on flexible steel springs that bend to move the hour hand, reducing part count, eliminating the need for lubrication, and minimizing wear and tear. Basically, one bendy steel rod replaces dozens of moving parts.
The 5650G was only offered in the configuration shown above, with a blue dial and strap. Its list price was $58,000, but because it’s so unique and limited, secondhand prices hover around $500,000.
Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut 5650G-001 Specs
| Model | Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research |
| Reference Number | 5650G-001 |
| Case | 18k white gold 40.8 mm × 11 mm |
| Dial | Blue-to-black gradient, embossed numerals, luminescent hour markers |
| Functions | Dual time zone, date, day/night indicator |
| Movement | Caliber 324 S C FUS Automatic winding 45 hours power reserve |
| Strap | Blue composite strap, white gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Price (MSRP) | $58,000 |
| Market Price (2025) | $500,000 |
Aquanaut Annual Calendar
In 2023, Patek Philippe introduced an annual calendar — a complication the brand invented in 1996 — to the Aquanaut lineup for the first time.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Annual Calendar 5261R-001
The Aquanaut Annual Calendar 5261R-001 features a 39.9mm rose gold case with a blue-gray opaline dial and matching Tropical strap, carrying over all the familiar design codes: rounded octagonal bezel, embossed checkerboard dial, and applied Arabic numerals.
Inside is the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S QA LU, equipped with Patek’s patented annual calendar mechanism. It tracks the day, date, and month while accounting for the varying lengths of each month — meaning it only needs adjusting once a year, at the end of February. Notably, the calendar layout is inverted compared to most Patek models: the day is at 3 o’clock, the month at 9, the moon phase at 12, and the date appears in a window at 6. It’s a clean presentation, but the rearranged layout is quite jarring and can take some getting used to.
| Model | Aquanaut Annual Calendar |
| Reference Number | 5261R-001 |
| Case | Rose gold 39.9 mm × 10.94 mm thick |
| Dial | Opaline blue-gray Embossed Aquanaut pattern Rose gold applied numerals and hands with white luminescent coating |
| Functions | Annual calendar, day and month by hands, moon phases, sweep seconds |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S QA LU Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Blue-gray composite strap with rose gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Price | $68,850 |
Aquanaut Luce
Launched in 2004, the Aquanaut Luce brought precious gems to the sportiest family in the Patek Philippe catalog. “Luce,” meaning “light” in Italian, refers to the collection’s signature diamond-set bezels. While early Luce models were relatively simple in function and quartz-powered, the collection has since grown to include a wide range of complications, case materials, and even high jewelry executions — all while maintaining the core design codes that define the Aquanaut.
Quartz Aquanaut Luce Time and Date
The newest generation of quartz Aquanaut Luce Time and Date models arrived in 2021, bringing a larger 38.8mm case size to replace the earlier 35.6mm versions. Each model keeps the signature Aquanaut styling — rounded octagonal case, embossed checkerboard dial, applied Arabic numerals, and a color-matched composite strap — but includes a sparkly diamond-set bezel and simple quartz movement.
The 5267/200A-001 leans classic with its black dial and strap, paired with white gold numerals and hands filled with luminescent coating. The 5267/200A-010 takes a brighter approach with a matte white dial and strap, contrasted by blackened gold numerals and hands, plus a white-on-black date display for extra legibility. Then there’s the 5267/200A-011, which dresses the Luce in a khaki green color scheme — a tone similar to the men’s Aquanauts.
All three models run on the Caliber E23-250 S C quartz movement with a date display at 3 o’clock, central seconds, and a three-year battery life. Their stainless steel cases are set with 48 diamonds (1.17 carats), fitted with solid casebacks, and secured by Patek’s patented fold-over clasp.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce | Aquanaut Luce | Aquanaut Luce |
| Reference Number | 5267/200A-001 | 5267/200A-010 | 5267/200A-011 |
| Case | Stainless steel 38.8 mm × 7.9 mm thick Bezel with 48 diamonds (1.17 ct) | Stainless steel 38.8 mm × 7.9 mm thick Bezel with 48 diamonds (1.17 ct) | Stainless steel 38.8 mm × 7.9 mm thick Bezel with 48 diamonds (1.17 ct) |
| Dial | Black varnished Embossed Aquanaut pattern White gold applied numerals and hands with luminescent coating | White varnished Embossed Aquanaut pattern Blackened white gold applied numerals and hands with luminescent coating | Khaki green varnished Embossed Aquanaut pattern White gold applied numerals and hands with luminescent coating |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date | Hours, minutes, seconds, date | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Movement | Caliber E23-250 S C Quartz | Caliber E23-250 S C Quartz | Caliber E23-250 S C Quartz |
| Strap | Black composite strap with stainless steel patented fold-over clasp | White composite strap with stainless steel patented fold-over clasp | Khaki green composite strap with stainless steel patented fold-over clasp |
| Price | $23,362 | $23,362 | $23,362 |
Automatic Aquanaut Luce Time and Date
In 2021, Patek Philippe also unveiled an automatic rose gold Aquanaut Luce Time and Date model with a white dial and matching white strap. However, that version was discontinued in early 2023 and was eventually replaced later that year with the current-production 5268/200R-010.
The updated model maintains the same 38.8mm rose gold case but introduces a new “taupe” colorway, a soft grayish brown hue that complements the warmth of the case. The dial maintains the familiar embossed checkerboard texture, applied rose gold Arabic numerals, and luminescent baton-style hands. As with its predecessor, the bezel is set with 48 diamonds totaling 1.17 carats.
Powering the watch is the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C movement with a 35–45 hour power reserve and sweep seconds. The taupe Tropical composite strap matches the dial tone and fastens with a rose gold fold-over clasp.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce |
| Reference Number | 5268/200R-010 |
| Case | Rose gold 38.8 mm × 8.5 mm thick Bezel with 48 diamonds (1.17 ct) |
| Dial | Taupe varnished Embossed Aquanaut pattern Rose gold applied numerals and hands with luminescent coating |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Taupe composite strap with rose gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Price | $60,321 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Joaillerie
Patek Philippe also offers high jewelry versions of the Aquanaut Luce, highlighting the maison’s expertise in gem-setting. While the standard Luce models have bezels set brilliant-cut (round) diamonds, the Luce Joaillerie line features baguette-cut diamonds–which are much more difficult to cut, sort, and set into a complete shape without unsightly gaps.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Joaillerie 5072R-001
The 5072R-001 features a 35.6mm rose gold case and a two-tone mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the Aquanaut’s signature checkerboard pattern. A date window appears at 3 o’clock, consistent with most models in the collection.
The bezel is set with 40 baguette-cut diamonds, while 12 brilliant-cut diamonds mark the hours. The beige composite strap is paired with a rose gold clasp set with 10 additional baguette-cut diamonds, for a total of 50 baguette and 12 brilliant-cut stones (3.3 carats). Inside is the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C with sweep seconds and a date function.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce Joaillerie |
| Reference Number | 5072R-001 |
| Case | Rose gold 35.6 mm × 8.5 mm thick |
| Dial | Two-tone beige and brown engraved mother-of-pearl dial Rose gold applied numerals, diamond hour markers, luminous rose gold hands |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S C Automatic winding 35–45h power reserve |
| Strap | Beige composite strap with rose gold patented fold-over clasp |
| Gemsetting | Bezel: 40 baguette-cut diamonds (2.9 ct) Hour markers: 12 diamonds (0.04 ct) Clasp: 10 baguette-cut diamonds (0.36 ct) |
| Price | $117,799 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G-001
The Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G-001, released in 2024, takes a more extravagant approach. The 38.8mm white gold case is topped with a gradient bezel of 40 baguette-cut blue sapphires, while the lugs are set with baguette diamonds.
The dial recreates the Aquanaut’s pattern using alternating rows of sapphires and diamonds, surrounded by a snow-set ring of 160 brilliant-cut diamonds. With no date display, this model runs on the Caliber 26-330 S automatic movement. A deep blue composite strap and baguette-set white gold clasp complete the design.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie |
| Reference Number | 5268/461G-001 |
| Case | White gold 38.8 mm × 9.1 mm thick |
| Dial | 18k gold plate, paved with baguette-cut diamonds & sapphires, snow-set hour ring, sapphire hour markers, luminous white gold hands |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, sweep seconds |
| Movement | Caliber 26-330 S Automatic winding 45h power reserve |
| Strap | Dark blue composite strap with white gold fold-over clasp set with diamonds |
| Gemsetting | 72 baguette-cut sapphires (5.29 ct) 38 baguette-cut diamonds (2.03 ct) 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 ct) |
| Price | $259,058 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Joaillerie With Complications
This is where the Aquanaut Luce reaches its peak. These models combine two of Patek Philippe’s specialties — high jewelry and mechanical complications — into showstopping creations. From rainbow-set flyback chronographs to fully paved minute repeaters, these watches push the Aquanaut design into its most opulent era.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph 7968/300R-001
Introduced in 2022, the Aquanaut Rainbow Chronograph 7968/300R-001 was Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph designed specifically for women. The rose gold watch combines the sportiness of a flyback chronograph with the lavishness of rainbow gem-setting. Its 39.9mm case features alternating baguette-cut diamonds and multicolored sapphires set into the octagonal bezel using the invisible setting technique. The engraved white mother-of-pearl dial continues the theme, with twelve multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers surrounding rose gold Arabic numerals.
Powering the watch is the Caliber CH 28-520 automatic movement with flyback functionality and a 60-minute counter, visible through the sapphire caseback. The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph comes on a red composite strap for added flashiness; however, for a more toned-down style (well, as toned down as this bejeweled chrono can get), it also comes with beige and white straps, all secured with a rose gold clasp set with ten baguette-cut diamonds.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Joaillerie |
| Reference Number | 7968/300R-001 |
| Case | Rose gold 39.9 mm × 10.37 mm thick |
| Dial | White mother-of-pearl with engraved Aquanaut pattern Baguette-cut multicolored sapphire hour marker Rose gold applied numerals and luminous hands |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand, 60-minute counter |
| Movement | Caliber CH 28-520 Automatic winding 50h – max. 55h power reserve |
| Strap | Red composite straps Additional white and beige straps Rose gold fold-over clasp set with diamonds |
| Gemsetting | 52 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires (2.62 ct) 50 baguette-cut diamonds (2.41 ct) |
| Price | $237,452 |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeaters
In 2023, Patek Philippe introduced two minute repeaters into the Aquanaut Luce collection — the most mechanically ambitious and elaborately gem-set models in the lineup to date. Powered by the self-winding Caliber R 27, both watches chime the hours, quarters, and minutes on two classic gongs, yet each offers a distinctly different take on gem-setting and styling.
The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie 5260/1455R-001 is a fully paved masterpiece set with a total of 779 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires (45.05 carats) and 131 diamonds (8.67 carats). The 38.8mm rose gold case features a bezel set with alternating rows of 40 baguette sapphires (2.84 ct) and 40 baguette diamonds (2.93 ct), while the caseband and slide piece add 69 more baguette sapphires (2.73 ct). The dial is paved with 90 baguette-cut diamonds (5.73 ct) and ringed with 12 baguette sapphire hour markers (1.08 ct). Even the rose gold hands are set with baguette rubies or sapphires and a diamond. Most notably, the watch is fitted with a rose gold bracelet entirely set with 650 baguette sapphires (38.34 ct) across the central links and flanks using the invisible setting technique. Love or hate the style this is an extraordinary show of gem-setting precision.
The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie 5260/355R-001 offers a different expression of extravagance. Though it features the same 38.8mm case size and the same base movement, it’s mounted on a composite strap (beige by default, with red and white included) which Patek deems as “casual chic” but with this many gems, “casual” is a stretch. Its dial is paved with 54 baguette-cut diamonds (3.52 ct) and surrounded by 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct) arranged in a snow setting on the hour ring. Hour markers are rendered in 12 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires (0.59 ct), and the rose gold bezel is again double-set: 40 baguette sapphires (2.6 ct) and 40 baguette diamonds (2.85 ct). An additional 8 baguette-cut diamonds (0.58 ct) adorn the lugs, while the clasp adds 10 more baguette-cut diamonds (0.36 ct), bringing the total to 52 baguette sapphires (3.19 ct) and 272 diamonds (8.03 ct) across baguette and brilliant cuts.
This is the Aquanaut at its most extravagant, combining high watchmaking with maximalist gem-setting.
| Model | Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie | Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie |
| Reference Number | 5260/1455R-001 | 5260/355R-001 |
| Case | Rose gold 38.8 mm × 10.7 mm thick | Rose gold, 38.8 mm × 10.1 mm thick |
| Dial | Baguette-cut diamond pavé with multicolored sapphire hour markers, diamond hour ring; hands set with baguette rubies/sapphires and 1 diamond | Baguette-cut diamond pavé with multicolored sapphire hour markers, diamond hour ring (snow setting), rose gold hands with white lume |
| Functions | Minute repeater with chime on two classic gongs | Minute repeater with chime on two classic gongs |
| Movement | Caliber R 27 Automatic winding 43–48h power reserve | Caliber R 27 Automatic winding 43–48h power reserve |
| Strap | Rose gold bracelet with 650 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires (38.34 ct), rose gold fold-over clasp | Beige composite strap Additional red and white straps Rose gold fold-over clasp set with diamonds |
| Gemsetting | 779 sapphires (45.05 ct) 131 diamonds (8.67 ct) | 52 sapphires (3.19 ct) 112 baguette-cut diamonds (7.31 ct) 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct) |
| Price | $3,352,411 | $1,112,692 |
Complete List of Patek Philippe Aquanaut References (Including Discontinued Models)
The above models we discussed in detail in our Patek Philippe Aquanaut guide are what’s currently in production, but there are plenty of discontinued Aquanaut models that get a lot of love on the pre-owned market.
Here is a complete list of Patek Philippe Aquanaut references, including discontinued models.
| Year Introduced | Reference | Case | Caliber | Discontinued? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1997 | 5060A | Steel, 35.6 mm | 330 S C | Yes |
| 1998 | 5064A-001 | Steel, 34 mm | E 23-250 | Yes |
| 1998 | 5065A-001 | Steel, 38.8 mm | 315 S C | Yes |
| 1998 | 5065/1A-010 | Steel, 38.8 mm (bracelet) | 315 S C | Yes |
| 1998 | 5066A-001 | Steel, 35.6 mm | 330 S C | Yes |
| 1998 | 5066J-001 | Yellow Gold, 35.6 mm | 330 S C | Yes |
| 1998 | 4960A-010 | Steel, 29.5 mm | E 19 S C | Yes |
| 1999 | 5065/1J-001 | Yellow Gold, 38.8 mm (bracelet) | 315 S C | Yes |
| 1999 | 5065J-001 | Yellow Gold, 38.8 mm | 315 S C | Yes |
| 1999 | 4960J-001 | Yellow Gold, 29.5 mm | E 19 S C | Yes |
| 2004 | 5067A-001 | Steel, 35.6 mm | E 23-250 S C | Yes |
| 2004 | 5067A-011 | Steel, 35.6 mm | E 23-250 S C | Yes |
| 2004 | 5067A-013 | Steel, 35.6 mm | E 23-250 S C | Yes |
| 2007 | 5167A-001 | Steel, 40.8 mm | 315 S C (first) 26-330 S C (now) | No |
| 2007 | 5065A-001 | Steel, 38.8 mm | 315 S C | Yes |
| 2008 | 5167/1A | Steel, 40.8 mm (bracelet) | 324 S C | Yes |
| 2009 | 5167R-001 | Rose Gold, 40.8 mm | 315 S C (first) 26-330 S C (now) | No |
| 2011 | Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 | Steel, 40.8 mm | 324 S C FUS | Yes |
| 2011 | Aquanaut “Clients Only” LE 5167A-010 | Steel, 40 mm | 324 S C | Yes |
| 2016 | Aquanaut Travel Time 5164R-001 | Rose Gold, 40.8 mm | 324 S C FUS (first 26-330 S C FUS (now) | No |
| 2017 | Aquanaut “Jumbo” 5168G-001 | White Gold, 42.2 mm | 324 S C (first) 26-330 S C (now) | No |
| 2017 | Aquanaut Advanced Research LE 5650G-001 | White Gold, 40.8 mm | 324 S C FUS | Yes |
| 2018 | Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A-001 | Steel, 42.2 mm | CH 28-520 C | No |
| 2019 | Aquanaut Singapore LE 5167A-012 | Steel, 40 mm | 324 SC | Yes |
| 2019 | Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G-010 | White Gold, 42.2 mm | 26-330 S C | No |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Luce 5267/200A-001 | Steel, 38.8 mm | E 23-250 S C | No |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Luce 5267/200A-010 | Steel, 38.8 mm | E 23-250 S C | No |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Luce 5267/200A-011 | Steel, 38.8 mm | E 23-250 S C | No |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Luce 5268/200R-001 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | 26-330 S C | Yes |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Luce Travel Time 5269/200R-001 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | E 23-250 S FUS 24H | Yes |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Chronograph 5968G-001 | White Gold, 42.2 mm | CH 28-520 C | No |
| 2021 | Aquanaut Chronograph 5968G-010 | White Gold, 42.2 mm | CH 28-520 C | No |
| 2022 | Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph 7968/300R-001 | Rose Gold, 39.9 mm | CH 28-520 | No |
| 2023 | Aquanaut Luce 5268/200R-010 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | 26-330 S C | No |
| 2023 | Aquanaut Annual Calendar 5261R-001 | Rose Gold, 39.9 mm | 26-330 S QA LU | No |
| 2023 | Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R-001 | Rose Gold, 42.2 mm | CH 28-520 C | No |
| 2023 | Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater 5260/355R-001 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | R 27 | No |
| 2023 | Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater 5260/1455R-001 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | R 27 | No |
| 2024 | Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G-001 | White Gold, 40.8 mm | 26-330 S C FUS | No |
| 2024 | Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R-001 | Rose Gold, 38.8 mm | E 23-250 S FUS 24H | No |
| 2024 | Aquanaut Luce High Jewelry 5268/461G-001 | White Gold, 38.8 mm | 26-330 S | No |
Whether you’re just getting acquainted with the collection or looking to refine your understanding, hopefully our Patek Philippe Aquanaut guide has provided a detailed look at how the modern sports watch has evolved into a cornerstone of the brand.
Concluding Our Patek Philippe Aquanaut Guide
With its signature style, versatile range of complications and designs, and increasingly strong demand among collectors, the Aquanaut continues to prove that it’s gone beyond just a Nautilus alternative, carving out a distinct place in Patek Philippe’s modern catalog — and in today’s watch landscape.
It’s where Patek feels free to let loose a little, which is why the collection includes more vibrant colorways, outlandish gem-set models, quirky quartz options, and cool complications.
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