Halal Rolex: Which Rolex Watches Contain No Gold?

Powerfunk Monday, January 8th, 2024 4 min. read

Rolex engineers its products to last as long as possible, and their choice of materials reflects that–from ceramic bezel inserts to lacquer paints that don’t fade. And because stainless steel watch hands and hour markers have a tendency to slightly corrode over time, Rolex even uses solid 18k gold for their hands and markers so they maintain their luster indefinitely. However, this can give some Muslim men pause, as wearing gold is considered Haram (forbidden) for men. The prohibition against gold for men in some interpretations within Islam can vary. Some Muslims may think a steel Submariner is a Halal Rolex, as the trace amounts of gold involved aren’t “adorning” them in the sense they feel is prohibited, while others may view that same watch as a Haram Rolex because it has gold on it, period. We’re not here to tell you how to interpret the Quran, but if you’d prefer to seek a Rolex with no gold whatsoever, we’ll explain how to identify vintage gold-free models so you can find a Rolex Halal (permissible) to your standards.

Halal Rolex Speedking with steel hands
This 1960 Speedking could be considered a “Halal Rolex” as it lacks gold parts.

Do All Rolexes Contain Gold?

Since about 1979, Rolex has used gold for all their watch hands. Gold hour markers were phased in a few years after that. This was a practical decision on Rolex’s part, as gold won’t corrode.

Haram Rolex (white gold hands and surrounds)
Stainless steel Rolex Submariners have had white gold hour surrounds since the mid-1980’s.

Even my stainless steel Sub has gold circles around the lume. I try to keep away from gold as well, but from an Islamic point of view I think a certain amount of gold is permissible.

Reddit user Present-Ad-9749

Of course, not all Muslim men feel that way, and that’s OK. If you want to avoid gold entirely, your best bet for a Halal Rolex is one from before 1979.

How Do I Tell How Old a Rolex Is?

A common way to approximate the age of a Rolex is to look at its serial number. Rolex serial numbers for models made before 2012 were fairly predictable, so you can use the serial to estimate if the watch is from before 1979. But remember, 1979 is just a guideline–you can’t just say “this serial number looks like it’s from 1978; I’m good!” You also should look closely with your eyes for signs of pitting (corrosion) on the watch hands.

Some Spotting on the Hands? Probably a Halal Rolex

Gold hands are very unlikely to have any spotting. Even though Rolex uses quality stainless steel, on most vintage Rolexes with steel hands, if you look very closely you can see some signs of pitting. It’s nothing to worry about, but it does mean you can be reasonably confident that you’re looking at a Halal Rolex.

Halal Rolex (steel hands)
Based on the tiny “flecks” visible, these appear to be steel hands, making this ref. 1530 Rolex Halal.

Avoid “Sigma Dials”

Although gold hands became universal on the Rolex lineup sometime around 1979, Rolex had been experimenting with solid gold hands and markers on some of their models for several years before that. Look at the bottom of the dial, where it says “SWISS.” If it’s surrounded by weird-looking lowercase o’s (as in “σ T SWISS T σ”), those are actually lowercase sigmas. In the Rolex world, a sigma dial indicates solid gold hands and hour markers. So basically, “σ” is a sure sign of a Haram Rolex, but a lack of “σ” doesn’t necessarily mean a Halal Rolex.

Day-Date with custom "golden nugget" bracelet
A “sigma dial” is a sure sign of gold hour markers and hands.

Halal Rolex Watches: In Conclusion

That’s pretty much all there is to it. Look for a steel Rolex from before 1979, look for some (hopefully very slight) signs of corrosion on the hands, avoid sigma dials, and you’ve got yourself a Halal Rolex. And if you ever get your watch serviced, make it known that you do not want your hands or dial replaced with modern service replacements. Of course, you’ll have more options if you’re willing to consider luxury watches from other brands, but they all have their quirks. Happy hunting!

More on Rolex:
Best Alternatives to the Rolex Daytona
Rolex and Nickel Allergies: What’s the Deal?
Rolex Myths, Lies, and Almost-Firsts
The Rolex Waiting List: How Does it Work, and is it Getting Better?
What is the Best Entry-Level Rolex?

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10 responses to “Halal Rolex: Which Rolex Watches Contain No Gold?”

  1. Amr Emad Avatar
    Amr Emad

    What about other watch brands like Omega for example

    1. Powerfunk Avatar
      Powerfunk

      It’s a bit less clearcut with Omega; I would go model-by-model with them. Some of their movements have gold rotors and/or gold plating too. So avoid Caliber 861 for instance. Its replacement 1861 should be fine, as it has rhodium plating instead.

  2. Haikal Avatar
    Haikal

    Hi Mr. Anderson I hope you are well.

    This is really helpful, I should be hunting for a vintage Rolex before 1979. Some questions if you don’t mind, there is this watch I am currently interested in, Jaeger Lecoultre tribute monoface Ref. Q713842J and the watch is using calibre 822 I believe? Does the watch contain any gold or not? I already asked the JLC’s customer service but no answer so far. And what about some Cartier watches? Thank you in advance and sorry for taking your time.

    Best wishes,
    Haikal

    1. Powerfunk Avatar
      Powerfunk

      Hi Haikal, I’m glad you found this helpful! Cartier and JLC don’t generally use white gold hands on steel watches like Rolex does, so I think you should be fine.

  3. Hakiim Avatar
    Hakiim

    Hi Sir,

    My grandfather passed down a Rolex Datejust 36 16013. I would assume they are not halal as they contain gold?

    1. Powerfunk Avatar
      Powerfunk

      Hi Hakiim, the 16013 does have yellow gold on the bezel, hands, dial, crown and center links.

  4. Reymee Mohamed Hussein Avatar
    Reymee Mohamed Hussein

    Peace be upon you.. 😊
    Very useful article Dear Sir. Thank you for your findings & fair research on the Islamic perspective of gold for men. I hope to find a Rolex that’s permissible for me soon. May God Almighty reward u & bless u always.

    Kindest Regards,
    Reymee

    1. Powerfunk Avatar
      Powerfunk

      Thanks for your kind comment, Reymee. Best of luck on your search!

  5. Iqbal Hussain Avatar
    Iqbal Hussain

    Will the 1603 or 16030 Rolexes have white gold hands, batons indices and crown?

    There all models from the late 70 and older with steel fluted bezels. But almost every image I see the hands look spotless.

    1. Powerfunk Avatar
      Powerfunk

      From the late 1970s and newer, yes, I’d expect white gold hands at least. But most 1960s or early 1970’s 1603’s (assuming the hands haven’t been replaced) should be gold-free.

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