New Releases from Independent Watchmakers at Watches & Wonders 2024
Although the big brands typically steal all the headlines during the first few days of Watches & Wonders, independent brands don’t shy away from flaunting their latest watches at the show either. The “indies” typically rely on top-notch innovations, impressive mechanics, creative designs, and/or impeccable handicrafts to stand out from the slew of new timepieces announced at the event. From the likes of H. Moser & Cie, Ulysse Nardin, Laurent Ferrier, and others, here are some new releases from independent watchmakers at Watches & Wonders 2024.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
In 2020, H. Moser & Cie threw its hat into the integrated bracelet sports watch ring with the launch of the Streamliner watch. Two years later, the independent watchmaker released its first skeleton watch. At Watches & Wonders 2024, these two concepts come together in the form of the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton watch.
Featuring the Streamliner’s signature cushion-shaped case and fully integrated steel bracelet void of any lugs, Moser’s execution of a skeletonized tourbillon is ultra-modern and beautifully balanced. The steel case measures a well-proportioned 40mm in diameter and 12.1mm thick (including sapphire crystal) and it’s water-resistant to an impressive 120 meters. The scene-stealing dial is fully skeletonized for a superb view of the also fully skeletonized automatic HMC 814 movement below it, showing off a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Specs
| Model | Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton |
| Reference Number | 6814-1200 |
| Case | Stainless steel Cushion-shaped 40mm diameter 10.3mm thick without sapphire crystal, 12.1mm thick with sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Skeletonized dial 5N gold-plated faceted indices 5N gold-plated hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes Tourbillon |
| Movement | Caliber HMC 814, self-winding skeletonized manufacture movement 21,600 bph 72-hour power reserve |
| Water Resistance | 120 meters |
| Bracelet | Integrated steel bracelet Folding clasp with three steel blades |
| 2024 Retail Price (MSRP) | $86,900 |
Ulysse Nardin Freak [S Nomad]
Ulysse Nardin has been getting its freak on since the release of the groundbreaking Freak watch in 2001. Void of any conventional hands, dial, and crown, it was unlike any other watch on the market. Plus, it was the first watch to use a silicon hairspring, a now ubiquitous feature of high-end watches.
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Ulysse Nardin released the second variant of the new-gen Freak S (launched in 2022) called the Freak [S Nomad] — a name apparently chosen to highlight the brand’s independence and “quest to explore new territories.”
Limited to 99 pieces, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad watch runs the Caliber UN251 Manufacture movement that resembles a spaceship, visible on the front of the piece, featuring a flying carousel that rotates around its own axis. The bridge of the movement, complete with lume, doubles as the minute hand. The hour is indicated via a pointer set on a rotating hour disk, which is beautifully decorated with a sand-colored diamond guilloché pattern. The movement is housed inside a 45mm titanium case topped with an anthracite PVD-coated titanium bezel and framed by carbon fiber side plates.
Freak S Nomad Specs
| Model | Freak S |
| Reference Numbers | 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/1A (alligator strap) 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/3A (“ballistic” rubber strap) |
| Case | Titanium case 45mm diameter 16.65mm thick crystal Anthracite PVD-coated titanium caseback with sapphire crystal |
| Bezel | Anthracite PVD-coated titanium |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes |
| Movement | Caliber UN-251 Manufacture Automatic Flying carousel movement rotating around its own axis Sand-colored CVD with diamond-shaped guilloché hour disk 72-hour power reserve |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| 2024 Retail Price (MSRP) | $148,300 |
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
While independent watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has been focusing much of its efforts on expanding its Tonda integrated bracelet watch collection, at Watches & Wonders 2024 the brand also revived Toric watches — Parmigiani Fleuerier’s inaugural model when the brand debuted in the mid-1990s.
The 2024 Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde retains the fundamental design codes of the original Toric line but benefits from a contemporary refresh. Available in either rose gold or platinum, the watches sport 40.6mm cases, topped with a characteristic knurled bezel. The expansive solid gold hand-grained finished dials are minimalistic in design, featuring subtle hour markers and a running subdial at 6 o’clock.
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the stunning 18k rose gold manual-winding movement that serves to drive the watch. Decorated with Côtes de Fleurier and featuring hand-beveled edges, the movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 60 hours.
Toric Petite Seconde Specs
| Model | Toric Petite Seconde | Toric Petite Seconde |
| Reference | PFC940-2010001-300181 | PFC940-2010004-300181 |
| Case | Rose gold | Platinum |
| Dial | 18k hand-grained rose gold Color: Sandy gold | 18k hand-grained white gold Color: Almond green gold |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds | Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds |
| Movement | Caliber PF780 Manual-winding 18k rose gold 60 hours power reserve | Caliber PF780 Manual-winding 18k rose gold 60 hours power reserve |
| Strap | Green hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather 18k rose gold pin buckle | Beige hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather Platinum pin buckle |
| 2024 Retail Price (MSRP) | CHF 49,500 | CHF 56,500 |
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Blue And Silver
Laurent Ferrier returns to its more traditional roots with the Watches & Wonders 2024 release of the Classic Moon Blue and Classic Moon Silver watches. The elegant watches feature the brand’s signature round case shape with pebble-like curves, emphasized by sloped bezels, arched lugs, and a ball-shaped crown.
These are the first Laurent Ferrier watches to include a moonphase display, accompanied by an annual calendar complication. The Classic Moon Blue has a stainless steel case and a gray-blue opaline dial whereas the Classic Moon Silver includes a red gold case with a satin-finished silver dial. The dial layout features double windows below 12 o’clock for the day and month, a moon phase indicator and running seconds at 6 o’clock, and a date ring around the periphery. The moon disk is made from aventurine glass, engraved with a pair of moons — one for the northern hemisphere and one for the southern hemisphere.
Inside the cases is the new Caliber LF126.02 manual-winding movement with a power reserve of 80 hours. Rather than placing the power reserve indicator on the dial side, Laurent Ferrier has opted to position it on the back of the movement.
Classic Moon Specs
| Model | Classic Moon Blue | Classic Moon Silver |
| Reference | LCF039.AC.C1WC | LCF039.R5.G3N |
| Case | Stainless steel | Rose gold |
| Dial | Grey-blue opaline | Vertical satin-finished silver |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds Annual calendar with day, date, month Moonphase indicator Power reserve indicator | Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds Annual calendar with day, date, month Moonphase indicator Power reserve indicator |
| Movement | Caliber LF126.02 Manual-winding 80 hours power reserve | Caliber LF126.02 Manual-winding 80 hours power reserve |
| Strap | Dark grey Nubuck Stainless steel pin buckle | Brown calfskin Red gold pin buckle |
| 2024 Retail Price (MSRP) | CHF 70,000 | CHF 80,000 |
Independent Watchmakers at Watches & Wonders 2024
One of the appeals of Watches & Wonders is the mix of watch brands that participate, ranging from big brands to smaller independent ones, ultra-expensive timepieces to more affordable ones.
It was a good year for independent watchmakers at Watches & Wonders 2024 with plenty of new releases on display. While we only covered a handful of them, other independent brands such as Beauregard (in collaboration with Vianney Halter), Czapek, Grönefeld, Ressence, Speake Marin, Trilobe, and others were also in attendance.
Independent watchmaking is essential to keep the luxury watchmaking industry creative, interesting, and innovative. These brands may not produce large amounts of pieces per year (they’re typically known for low production numbers) but their impact on the luxury watch landscape is significant.
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