Collector’s Guide to the AP Jules Audemars

Sports watches tend to dominate the discussion in the luxury watch world, but classical round-cased dress watches from names like A. Lange & Sohne and Patek Philippe have no trouble getting their fair share of attention. For whatever reason, though, the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars lineup–AP’s round dress watch family from 1991-2021–gets mostly ignored by collectors. Here’s our guide to those overlooked Jules Audemars watches.

History of the Jules Audemars

The first Jules Audemars watch, named after one of the company’s two founders, appeared in 1991. Ref. 25718 came in a round 39mm precious metal case with distinctive teardrop lugs, and an even more distinctive nonstandard crown located on the caseback. It was the first automatic wristwatch to ever combine a tourbillon with a power reserve display. It also featured a pointer date display at 3 o’clock.

in the following years, AP would use the Jules Audemars as a platform for various other complications ranging from relatively straightforward dual-time models to skeletonized tourbillon minute repeaters and beyond.

AP’s first grande et petite sonnerie wristwatch was a Jules Audemars model released in 1994, and it also featured a quarter repeater. They stepped it up with a minute repeater and a carillon (i.e. three chiming gongs instead of two) within a few years.

Their very first Grande Complication wristwatch–which they define as a watch with a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and perpetual calendar–came in 1996, and it was also a Jules Audemars model. Incredibly, it was only 8.5mm thick. Expect to pay over $350,000 if you find one for sale–and I would actually consider that a “good deal” for the insane level of complication involved.

Simple time-only models and chronographs became a key part of the lineup by the early 2000s.

Case and Lugs

During the three-decade run of the Jules Audemars, diameters ranged from 27mm all the way up to 48mm, always in a classic dressy round case.

The round case, most often in precious metals but occasionally made in titanium or steel, is the antithesis of a monobloc Rolex Oyster case. Aside from the original 25718 and its teardrop lugs, all Jules Audemars watches have old-school straight lugs. Notches have to be cut into the case where the lugs are welded in and then meticulously finished. Look how the grain of the brushing on the case is perpendicular to that of the lugs:

Perception of the AP Jules Audemars Today

Despite the fact that AP’s first Grande Complication and first Grande Sonnerie wristwatch were both Jules Audemars models, the line never quite reached “flagship” status in the minds of collectors. After all, it’s hard not to be overshadowed by the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. But the Jules Audemars quietly soldiered on for years.

In August of 2021, there were 96 Jules Audemars models listed on AP’s website, including some of those high-complication models that debuted in the 1990s. By November 2021, all Jules Audemars models were discontinued. Let’s reflect back on all the various models that made up this now-defunct collection.

There are so many complications that I’ve divided them into chiming watches, tourbillon watches (except chiming ones), other complications, and time-only models. Let’s start with the simplest.

Time-Only Models

AP made dozens of time-only Jules Audemars models, ranging from 27mm ladies’ models to the unusual and very technically impressive 46mm 26153 “ChronAP” reference.

The ChronAP features the highly advanced AP Escapement which was a big deal back in 2006 because it requires no lubrication. Many 36mm and larger Jules Audemars models are automatic, but smaller ones are all manual-wind. AP never made a quartz Jules Audemars.

Most time-only Jules Audemars models have a small seconds subdial if they have a seconds hand at all, but a few larger ones do have central seconds. Personally I find the proportions of the 39mm size the most pleasing; the others have thinner bezels.

List of Time-Only AP Jules Audemars References

Size	References	Type / notes
46 mm	26153OR, 26153PT	“ChronAP” Chronometer with advanced lubrication-free “AP Escapement,” twin balance springs, 12 beats per second
41 mm	15181BC, 15181OR	Extra-thin limited “Bolshoi” edition to celebrate the reopening of the Bolshoi Theatre in 2011, two hands, textured dial, large
43 mm	15159BC, 15159OR	Selfwinding, pave diamonds, time-only, central seconds
41 mm	15180BC, 15180OR, 15182OR	Extra-thin time-only, two hands
39 mm	15093BC, 15093OR	Extra-thin time-only, two hands
39 mm	15140OR, 15140BC	Selfwinding time-only family with date, central seconds, diamond bezel
39 mm	15171OR, 15171BC	Slightly revised version of the above, updated dials
39 mm	15170BC, 15170OR	Selfwinding time-only family with date, central seconds
39 mm	15172OR	Selfwinding time-only family with date, central seconds, full bracelet
39 mm	15173OR	Selfwinding time-only family with date, central seconds, full bracelet, diamond bezel
38 mm	15126BC, 15126BA	Extra-thin time-only, two hands
36 mm	15056BC, 15056OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds
36 mm	15058BC, 15058OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, skeletonized
36 mm	15103BC, 15103OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel
36 mm	15123BC	Hand-wound time-only, two hands, full pavé dial/bezel/case
36 mm	15125BC, 79376BC	As above but with full pavé bracelet
36 mm	15155BC, 15155OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, bracelet
36 mm	15156BC, 15156OR	As above but with diamond bezel
36 mm	15133BC, 15133OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel
33 mm	77252OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds
33 mm	77238BC	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds
33 mm	77239BC	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel
33 mm	77240BC, 77240OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel, mother-of-pearl dial
33 mm	77250OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, seven-link bracelet
33 mm	77251OR	As above but with diamond bezel
29 mm	77228BC	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel
28 mm	77229BC, 77229OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel/dial/case
28 mm	77230BC, 77230OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds
27 mm	77208BC, 77208OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds
27 mm	77209BC, 77209OR	As above but with diamond bezel
27 mm	77214BC	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, diamond bezel/case/dial
27 mm	79386BC, 79386OR	Hand-wound time-only, small seconds, bracelet
27 mm	79387BC, 79387OR	As above but with diamond bezel

Jules Audemars Models with Complications (Non‑Tourbillon, Non‑Chiming)

I have a soft spot for the Jules Audemars chronograph, having owned ref. 25859BA for over a decade now. I find it to be a worthy alternative to the Patek 5070 at roughly 1/3 of the cost.

There are some other fairly standard complications in the Jules Audemars family too, like time-and-date and dual time models.

But there are some seriously complicated (and often unusual) Jules Audemars offerings as well. The AP Jules Audemars “Metropolis” is a perpetual calendar with a worldtimer function and a “globe grid” dial texture, for example.

Other Jules Audemars models include straightforward perpetual calendars, as well as perpetuals that also include a chronograph function or even an equation of time display (a complex function that shows the difference between official time and “solar time,” i.e. noon = sun overhead).

While the most hyped AP x Arnold Schwarzenegger collaborations tend to be Royal Oak models, some notable Jules Audemars references were released in partnership with the Governator as well. The 43 mm “Arnold’s All‑Stars” Jules Audemars watches were made in the mid‑2000s to benefit his charity, After‑School All‑Stars.

One style was a perpetual chronograph while the other was a dual time model, and both were commercially unsuccessful, perhaps due to the somewhat contradictory large size + ultra-traditional dress watch aesthetic combo.

But today they represent excellent horological values on the secondhand market. You can get a Jules Audemars Arnold’s All-Stars perpetual calendar chronograph for about $70,000 these days–the same price you’d pay for a simple 5170J chronograph from Patek Philippe.

All complicated Jules Audemars models are between 36mm-48mm; anything smaller than that is time-only.

List of Complicated AP Jules Audemars Models (Excluding tourbillons, chiming)

Size	References	Description
48 mm	25949IP	XXL “6th Day” chronograph with titanium case and platinum bezel, only given as a gift for those who came to a $50,000-a-plate charity dinner celebrating the 2000 premier of the Arnold Schwarzenegger movie 6th Day, 50 pieces made
43 mm	26003BA, 26003BC, 26003OR	Equation of time perpetual calendar moonphase with sunrise/sunset times
43 mm	26053PT	As above but skeletonized
43 mm	26085ST, 26090PT	Arnold’s All-Stars dual time model with pointer date, power reserve display and day/night indicator
43 mm	26094BC, 26094OR, 26094PT	Arnold’s All-Stars perpetual calendar chronograph
41 mm	26100BC, 26100OR, 26558TI	Two-register automatic chronograph, tachymeter dial
41 mm	26356PT	Minute repeater jump hours, skeletonized
41 mm	26380BC, 26380OR, 26372ST	Dual time model with pointer date, power reserve display and day/night indicator
41 mm	26390OR, 26391OR	Perpetual calendar with moonphase
40 mm	25965OR	Perpetual calendar chronograph
39 mm	25919BA, 25919BC, 25919OR, 25919PT	Metropolis (Perpetual calendar worldtimer)
39 mm	15135OR	Selfwinding, time and date, central seconds, bracelet
39 mm	25934BA, 25934BC, 25934OR	Equation of time perpetual calendar moonphase with sunrise/sunset times
39 mm	25963PT	As above but skeletonized
39 mm	25859BA, 25859BC, 25859ST, 25921ST	Two-register automatic chronograph
39mm	26012BC	As above but with diamond bezel and globe-grid dial texture
39 mm	26037BA	As above but with diamonds on the lugs as well
38 mm	26102ST	National Classic Tour two-register automatic chronograph, limited edition
36 mm	15157OR	Selfwinding, time and date, central seconds, bracelet
36 mm	15158OR	As above but with diamond bezel
36 mm	25685PT, 25685OR	Dual time with pointer date and power reserve
36 mm	25955BC, 25955OR	Pointer date and power reserve
36 mm	26250BC, 26250OR	Pointer date and day with moonphase
36 mm	26251BC, 26251OR	As above but with diamond bezel

Now let’s talk about the complication that helped birth the Jules Audemars lineup.

Tourbillon Watches (Non-Chiming)

The very first Jules Audemars model was a tourbillon, and that was in 1991–long before tourbillons were a major trend among top luxury watch brands. In fact it was only five years after AP made the world’s first serially-produced tourbillon wristwatch.

Tourbillons would remain a key part of the Jules Audemars lineup until its discontinuation in 2021, often combined with chronographs, and always sized at 39mm or larger.

List of Jules Audemars Tourbillon Watches (Excluding Chiming)

Size	Reference prefixes	Type / notes
43 mm	25909BA, 25909BC, 25909OR	Tourbillon chronograph (only one subdial–no running seconds)
43 mm	26010BC, 26010OR	Tourbillon chronograph
43 mm	26353PT	Tourbillon chronograph, openworked
41 mm	26346BC, 26346OR	Tourbillon chronograph, openworked
41 mm	26083BC	Tourbillon chronograph, diamond dial/case/bezel
41 mm	26559OR	Tourbillon Grande Date
41 mm	26143PT	Tourbillon with pointer date and power reserve, skeletonized
40 mm	25964PT	Tourbillon with pointer date and power reserve, automatic
39 mm	26561BC, 26561OR	Tourbillon
39 mm	26084BC	Tourbillon, diamond bezel
39 mm	26357PT	Tourbillon, diamond bezel, skeletonized
39 mm	25718BA, 25718OR	Tourbillon + pointer date + power reserve with teardrop lugs and rear crown (original Jules Audemars model)

As impressive as some of the above models are, the most exotic Jules Audemars references are the ones with chiming complications. Audemars Piguet made the movement for the first minute repeater wristwatch back in 1892, so they have a long and storied history of chiming watches.

Chiming Watches

The first chiming Jules Audemars watch, which debuted in 1994, was also AP’s first serially produced Grande Sonnerie wristwatch, meaning it chimes the hours and quarters as they pass. Ref. 25750 is not just a Grande Sonnerie but a Grande et Petite Sonnerie, meaning you can use a slider at 2 o’clock to choose to only chime the hours (that’s the Petite Sonnerie). Plus it’s a quarter repeater, so it can chime the hours + quarters on command.

The even more expensive 25825PT came one year later, adding full minute repeater capability.

As I mentioned earlier, Grande Complication models combine a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds chronograph. Even one of those is usually enough to put a watch into high horology territory, so combining all three is a serious feat, and AP released several such Jules Audemars variants.

They also made straightforward Jules Audemars minute repeaters, as well as minute repeaters with tourbillons. Sizes of chiming Jules Audemars models range from 39mm to 44mm.

List of AP Jules Audemars Chiming Watches

Size	Reference prefixes	Chiming type / notes
44 mm	26554PT	Grande Complication, skeletonized
43 mm	25948PT	Minute repeater + tourbillon + big date + chiming function indicator (lines indicate if hours, quarters and/or minutes would be chimed at the current time)
43 mm	26050OR, 26050PT	Minute repeater + tourbillon + chronograph (only one subdial, no running seconds)
43 mm	26118BC	As above but with diamond bezel/case
43 mm	26270PT	As above but skeletonized, no diamonds
43 mm	26151OR, 26151PT	Minute repeater + jump hours
43 mm	26356PT	As above but skeletonized
43 mm	26590PT	Minute repeater
42 mm	25866BA, 25866OR, 25866PT, 25866TI, 25880BC	Grande Complication
42 mm	25984BA, 25984OR, 25984PT	Grande Complication with bracelet, Breguet numerals
42 mm	25996BA, 25996OR, 25996PT, 25996TI	Grande Complication, skeletonized
42 mm	26023OR, 26023PT	Grande Complication with bracelet, skeletonized
41 mm	26569BC, 26569OR	Dragon-themed Grande Complication family
41 mm	26345BC, 26345OR	Minute repeater + tourbillon + chronograph, skeletonized
39 mm	25858BC, 25858PT, 26072TI, 26072OR	Minute repeater + tourbillon
39 mm	25825PT, 25945BA, 25945BC, 25945OR	Grande et Petite Sonnerie, carillon minute repeater
39 mm	25945PT, 26344PT	As above but with power reserve and dynamographe (torque indicator)
39 mm	26002BC	Minute repeater
39 mm	25750PT, 25750BA	Grande et Petite Sonnerie with quarter repeater

While I’m not shocked that Audemars Piguet discontinued the Jules Audemars line, it is a little surprising to me that they still don’t have a classic dress watch family in their current catalog at all. Perhaps that will make collectors grow to appreciate the Jules Audemars watches more in retrospect. And if not, well, they’ll continue to be an attractive value on the pre-owned market.