Guide to the Urwerk UR-100 and UR-100V
To say that Urwerk is a pioneer in the independent luxury watchmaking world would be an understatement. They were making wild (and wildly expensive) complicated watches over 25 years ago, when that was far from the norm. In 2019, the UR-100 was the 15th distinct model family released by the Urwerk brand, and it’s widely regarded as one of their most wearable watches. Including UR-100V models (which have an updated movement that debuted in 2022) there have been 19 UR-100 variants made as of 2025, including a wide array of case materials, most of them limited to 25 or fewer each. Here’s our guide to Urwerk UR-100 and UR-100V models.
Key Traits
Urwerk isn’t afraid to release asymmetrical watches, but the UR-100 is a pleasant angular symmetrical shape. Although I wouldn’t call it “conservative” by any stretch, the case shape of the UR-100 isn’t too different than a Zenith Defy, for instance–but the 12 o’clock crown is certainly unusual.
Urwerk is arguably one of the world’s most expensive watch brands, but the UR-100 family is actually somewhat of an “entry-level” lineup for them, with the vast majority of variants attainable secondhand for $45,000-$60,000. Urwerks generally hold their value well and sell pretty close to their MSRP.
The case of every UR-100 and UR-100V is 41mm wide, 14mm thick, and 49.7 mm lug to lug–except for the oddball 43mm “Lightspeed” model. As complex as the watch may look at a glance, there is no seconds hand, date indicator, or power reserve display.
Wandering Hours Display
Like many popular Urwerk watches, the UR-100/UR-100V uses a wandering hours complication (also known as “satellite hours”). This means it uses a planetary gear system with three planet gears (“satellites”), with the entire carousel making a full rotation around the dial once every three hours. Each planet gear has its own disc with four numbers, which itself rotates once every 12 hours. The minute track occupies 1/3 of the dial, so each of the three planet gears spends 1/3 of its time “pointing” at the minute track while its relevant correctly-oriented hour number is visible.
Although it seems like a rather brilliant and modern invention, this type of display dates back to the 1600’s! Urwerk’s astronomical scales visible at 10 and 2 o’clock are a new twist, though. Those essentially give the two otherwise inactive hour planets something to “measure,” so no additional complication is needed.
ROTAT is a 20-minute scale that goes up to 555.55 km, indicating the distance the Earth has traveled rotationally at the equator in that 20-minute period. The REVOL indicator, similarly, is a 0–35,742 km graduated scale that measures the distance Earth travels in its orbit around the Sun in 20 minutes. Obviously it’s not a useful indicator for any practical purpose that I’m aware of, but it’s something you don’t see on other watches.
Now let’s talk about an interesting feature that can be seen looking through the back of many Urwerks.
The Windfänger Planetary Turbine Automatic System
Every model in the Urwerk UR-100 family features the Windfänger Planetary Turbine Automatic System, a sophisticated mechanism developed by Urwerk to regulate the winding process in their automatic watches. In a typical automatic watch, rapid wrist motion can cause the rotor to spin quickly. Even though any automatic watch will have a slipping bridle that prevents over-winding of the mainspring, a fast-spinning rotor can still increase wear and tear on the winding system over time.
The Windfänger system solves this problem by attaching a tiny turbine (or “airscrew”) to the rotor, which physically creates air resistance and thus evens out the speed of the rotor during intense motion. It helps with shock absorption as well.
Urwerk UR-100 vs. UR-100V
The Urwerk UR-100V replaced the UR-100 in 2022 when Caliber 12.02 replaced the outgoing 12.01. The case dimensions are unchanged; it’s really just a movement update. 12.01 is a Zenith Elite-based movement while 12.02 uses a Vaucher base movement. You can tell them apart by looking at the back:
The UR-100V also gained a slightly more readable hour hand configuration, with the current hour number located closer to the minute pointer.
All Urwerk UR-100 Variants
Ever since the UR-100 debuted in 2019, it seems like Urwerk has been coming out with new models every 3-6 months. The design lends itself well to a wide variety of case materials and colorways, and indeed almost every model has a different case material or finish.
The first 2025 Urwerk release was the UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green,” the fourth UR-100V to come on an integrated titanium bracelet. It’s a nice-looking bracelet reminiscent of the bracelet on a Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Aside from the Magic T and Full Titanium Jacket models, all UR-100 models have fabric or leather straps. The “Hunter Green” is the 19th release in the UR-100 family, and while most are just different colors/materials with the same overall vibe, there are a few notable odd ones:
- The UR-100V Time and Culture I and Time and Culture II have “lids” covering the top portion of the dial, and the watches are covered in intricate Aztec-style and Sumerian-style engravings, respectively. The lid is actually underneath the crystal, interestingly.
- The UR-100V T-Rex has a dramatically textured bronze case, resembling dinosaur scales I guess.
- The only “iced out” version of the UR-100V is the Stardust, which sells pre-owned for $90,000–about $20,000 more than any other variant.
- The lightweight Lightspeed variant has a larger case (43mm), greater water resistance (50m instead of 30m), and astronomical scales that measure the distance light travels (rather than Earth). Confusingly, Urwerk has called it both a UR-100V and a UR-100 LS.
Really you can’t go wrong with any UR-100 variant. Let’s break them all down now:
Urwerk UR-100/UR-100V/UR-100LS Model Timeline
| Model | Case Material | Year | Limited to # |
|---|---|---|---|
| UR-100 SpaceTime (Iron) | Titanium and stainless steel | 2019 | 25 |
| UR-100 SpaceTime (Black) | Black DLC-coated titanium | 2019 | 25 |
| UR-100 Fireleg | Black PVD-coated titanium and steel | 2019 | 25 |
| UR-100 Gold “C-3PO” | Yellow gold | 2020 | 25 |
| UR-100 GunMetal | Gunmetal-coated titanium | 2020 | 25 |
| UR-100V Iron | Titanium and stainless steel | 2020 | 25 |
| UR-100V P.02 (Collective) | Titanium | 2021 | 20 |
| UR-100V Electrum | Gold-silver alloy (Electrum) | 2021 | 25 |
| UR-100V T-Rex | Textured bronze | 2021 | 22 |
| UR-100V Blue Planet | Blue PVD-coated stainless steel | 2021 | 25 |
| UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket | Sandblasted titanium with matching bracelet, matte grey finish | 2021 | 25 |
| UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket | Black DLC-coated titanium with matching bracelet | 2022 | 25 |
| UR-100V Time & Culture I | Titanium with engraved motifs | 2022 | 20 |
| UR-100V UltraViolet | Violet DLC-coated titanium | 2022 | 25 |
| UR-100V Magic T | Sandblasted titanium with matching bracelet, bright finish | 2023 | Not Specified |
| UR-100V Stardust | Titanium set with diamonds | 2023 | 10 per year |
| UR-100V Time & Culture II | Titanium with engraved motifs | 2023 | 30 |
| UR-100V LightSpeed | Carbon composite | 2024 | Not Specified |
| UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green” | Sandblasted titanium with matching bracelet, bright finish | 2025 | 35 |
As of 2025, the Stardust, Magic T, Ultraviolet, Lightspeed and Magic T “Hunter Green” appear to be the five currently offered models. Urwerk only makes about 150 watches per year, so even a run of 35 watches takes a while to make. Now let’s break down the specs of all the models.
Specs
| Specification | UR-100 | UR-100V | UR-100 LS (LightSpeed) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Case Dimensions | Width: 41mm Thickness: 14mm Lug to lug: 49.7mm | Width: 41mm Thickness: 14mm Lug to lug: 49.7mm | Width: 43mm Thickness: 14.55mm Lug to lug: 51.73mm |
| Movement Caliber | Caliber UR 12.01 | Caliber UR 12.02 | Caliber UR 12.02 |
| Movement Functions | Satellite hours/minutes, regulated by Planetary Turbine Automatic System | Satellite hours/minutes, regulated by Planetary Turbine Automatic System, plus updated efficiency | Satellite hours/minutes, planetary travel distances, and light-speed travel indicators |
| Power Reserve | 48 Hours | 48 Hours | 48 Hours |
| Case Material | Titanium, steel (varies by model) | Titanium, steel, gold (varies by model) | Carbon case with PVD-coated titanium case back |
| Strap/Bracelet | Leather or fabric strap | Leather, rubber, fabric strap, or integrated titanium bracelet (depending on model) | Textured red rubber strap |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters | 30 meters | 50 meters |
| Market Price (2025) | $42,000-$50,000 | $46,000–$68,000 (except Stardust: ~$90,000) | $60,000 |
While there are some admittedly zany variants like the Time and Culture and T-Rex models, overall the UR-100 line represents a relatively clean and straightforward aesthetic for Urwerk. It’s my favorite Urwerk lineup, and I’m looking forward to seeing what materials Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner will use for it next.
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