What is a Hyperwatch?

Powerfunk Monday, August 5th, 2024 5 min. read
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The term “hyperwatch” refers to highly complicated wristwatches with avant-garde design language and, typically, enormous price tags. The term hasn’t been around long, but it makes sense that it’s seeing increasing usage. The top end of the luxury watch world is becoming increasingly fractured into two distinct camps: aggressively modern design (like Richard Mille and Urwerk) and classic haute horology (like Patek Philippe and Roger Smith). An Urwerk–with futuristic design language and a complex unusual time display–is a great example of a hyperwatch. Few would use that term for a Patek Philippe Grand Complication, though, not that it’s any less impressive. Here’s our quick guide to what a hyperwatch is.

Escape II Rainbow 18K Rose Gold Piece Unique Hyperwatch
The Purnell Escape II Rainbow hyperwatch, piece unique

Origins of the Term

The term “hyperwatch” seemed to start gaining traction some time around 2020. Roger Dubuis may have been the first to use the word, in reference to their Excalibur Superbia White Gold. Roger Dubuis uses both “Hyper Horology” and “Hyper Watch” as trademarked brand terms, but the way they use them is in line with the generic usage. Roger Dubuis Hyper Watches are definitely legit hyperwatches.

Hyperwatch timepieces are unique state-of-the-art creations that push the concept of avant-garde watchmaking towards whole new horizons.

Roger Dubuis Youtube Channel
Roger Dubuis hyperwatch
Excalibur Superbia White Gold. Image: Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis is probably not the first brand most people think of when they hear the word “hyperwatch,” though. GQ Magazine was calling Richard Mille “the king of the hyperwatch” as early as 2021. Here are some typical hyperwatch characteristics:

  • High complications (often with a focus on very advanced tourbillons)
  • Skeletonized movement (or at least a partially openworked dial)
  • Avant-garde, futuristic design language
  • Cutting-edge technology (novel movements and/or advanced materials are common in this space)
  • Very high prices (usually $100,000+)

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Leading Hyperwatch Brands

Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis are far from the only brands competing in the hyperwatch space. Urwerk is known for their nonstandard time displays, often eschewing typical hands altogether, and MB&F is in a similar boat. Meanwhile, Jacob & Co. has entered the hyperwatch industry in a big way with offerings like their Bugatti Tourbillon and Astronomia.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar hyperwatch
Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar

And although Franck Muller does sell some simple watches, including basic ladies’ quartz watches, they also make some of the most complicated wristwatches ever made, like the Aeternitas Mega. They also have a wide range of skeletonized tourbillons that fall squarely in the hyperwatch category.

Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon watches have the largest tourbillon on the market.
Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon watches have the largest tourbillon on the market.

Greubel Forsey also deserves a mention; they’ve firmly established themselves as a leading player in the hyperwatch space, and as one of the most expensive watch brands in the world overall. If you’re looking for the “next Greubel Forsey,” keep an eye on De Bethune.

De Bethune released the Kind of Blue Tourbillon ref. DB28XSTB at Gemeva Watch Days 2025.
De Bethune released the Kind of Blue Tourbillon ref. DB28XSTB at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Photo: De Bethune

Meanwhile, an increasing number of brands like Purnell have attempted to become the “next Richard Mille.” This is far from an exhaustive list of hyperwatch brands, and the market for ultra-niche high-end independent watch brands seems to be robust, so I only expect more to pop up.

More on these brands:
A Collector’s Guide to Greubel Forsey
Franck Muller Watches: A Collector’s Overview
3 Urwerk Watches Not To Miss
MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Watch

The original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite, ref. 25980AI
The original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite, ref. 25980AI

Traditional haute horology brands have gotten into the hyperwatch game, too. Nobody would look at you funny if you called the spectacular Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual from Jaeger-LeCoultre a “hyperwatch.” Hublot has some high -end skeletonized hyperwatch offerings, too, and I would also put the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept in that category.

How Much Does a Hyperwatch Cost?

Hyperwatches typically have retail prices of $100,000 or more, with some reaching well into seven figures. But, secondhand, I would say about $30,000 is the entry point for a proper hyperwatch. The most affordable pre-owned Urwerk models are available around that price point, as is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Blue and Franck Muller Conquistador Grand Prix Tourbillon, for instance.

URWERK x Collective UR-100V P.02 - SpaceTime with GunMetal Finish
URWERK UR-100V P.02 – SpaceTime with GunMetal Finish, a collaboration with Collective

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Even the simplest used Richard Mille will set you back $65,000, but the most desirable ones are among the most expensive watches in the world. A growing number of hyperwatch brands are offering sapphire-case watches, and indeed many of the most expensive Richard Mille watches are sapphire and can sell for over $4 million. But for the most part, I would say $100,000-$300,000 is the sweet spot of the hyperwatch market.

Richard Mille Tourbillon GMT in platinum, ref. RM003
Richard Mille Tourbillon GMT in platinum, ref. RM003
MB&F Legacy Machine No.2 18K White Gold Watch LM2
MB&F Legacy Machine No.2 18K White Gold Watch LM2
De Bethune DB28GS Yellow Submarine Limited Edition Yellow ref. DB28GSV2YN
De Bethune DB28GS Yellow Submarine Limited Edition Yellow ref. DB28GSV2YN
Harry Winston Opus VII
Harry Winston Opus VII
Richard Mille RM037 in titanium
Richard Mille RM037 in titanium
MB&F Horological Machine 70.TGL.B Aquapod HM7 Titanium Green Limited Edition
MB&F Horological Machine 70.TGL.B Aquapod HM7 Titanium Green Limited Edition
Jacob & Co. Astronomia
Jacob & Co. Astronomia

The hyperwatch space is definitely one we’ll keep an eye on here at Luxury Bazaar. New brands and old brands alike have been pushing the limits of both design and technical capability in recent years, and that’s a trend that shows no signs of slowing down. If your favorite hyperwatch brand wasn’t mentioned, let us know!

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