I’m Gonna Say It. The New Cartier Tank is … Meh.

Several months have passed since Cartier released the new Tank Française, and the watch-collecting community is still divided.  Either you like it, or you hate it.  I find myself aligning with the latter group, which is hard to admit because traditionally, I have loved the Française line. The original Française tops my list of must-have watches.  However, it is for that exact reason that I am left feeling a little less than enthusiastic about the polarizing new upgrades that are being heralded by many as fresh and modern.

The Française, which has remained mostly the same since Cartier added it to the Tank lineup in 1996, was long overdue for a refresh.  The question is, did Cartier achieve the near-impossible goal of incorporating upgrades into the collection without completely losing its identity?

Related: How Much Does A Cartier Tank Cost?

I don’t feel like the company was entirely successful.  My disappointment stems from the fact that Cartier has finessed away the 90s-esque charm of the Française in favor of a sleeker and sportier silhouette.  Don’t get me wrong, the new Cartier Française still looks like a traditional Française watch, just more streamlined than before, perhaps even to a fault.

I can appreciate the appeal of the 2023 changes and understand the motives behind them. I’m just not a fan. Not yet, anyway.  That’s the beauty of watch collecting, though, isn’t it? Not everyone has the same taste in watches.  Before I go any further, I also must admit that I haven’t had a chance to examine the new watch in person and try it on my wrist.  There is room for my opinion to change, and I welcome any views from other passionate watch collectors in the comments.

So, What Changed? Differences Between the Old and New Tank Française

Without going into the entire history of the Tank, the Française follows the same formula that has defined the collection since 1917.  It features a square-shaped case and straight brancards that extend outwards to form the lugs.  Additionally, the crown is decorated with a blue cabochon, and the dial features sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral hour markers.  Each sub-model within the Tank collection adds its own spin to the Tank design, with the Française being the first to add a metal bracelet to the mix. 

The Tank Française has always catered to men and women, with the current range including small, medium, and large models.  However, some of the collection’s most prominent owners have been women, including Princess Diana, Meghan Markle, and former First Lady Michelle Obama.  With the new changes, the Tank Française takes on a masculine appeal that doesn’t speak to me as much as the older models.

More importantly, the large model is the only Française in the current lineup powered by an automatic movement. The small and medium models are both quartz watches.  Although, it isn’t entirely usual to see smaller-sized luxury watches furnished with quartz movements.  In a somewhat more controversial move, Cartier has added a date window to the larger model.  If you’re like me and prefer the cleaner aesthetic of a time-only dial, quartz is your only option.  Having smaller wrists myself, it would be great to see a small model Française powered by an automatic movement, but I doubt Cartier will ever confidently add that option to their portfolio.

For me, most of the new shortcomings are aesthetic. On the new Cartier Française, the crown is integrated slightly into the case.  While I appreciate the new, streamlined design with the crown tucked neatly into the case body, it leaves much to be desired.  The grooves for the recessed crown are visible from both the top and underside of the case, which is unsightly and only takes away from the new, sleeker approach of the watch.  Its purpose is to allow for a better grip now that the crown is integrated into the case, but I much prefer the design of the older, non-recessed crown.

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The Bracelet

That same sentiment applies to the redesigned end links, which previously included three links – one larger link flanked by two smaller links.  I’m not crazy about this design element because the elegant transition between the case and bracelet that once defined the Française is gone.  In photos, the new end links simply look too bulky.

Additionally, Cartier has traded most of the polished metal for a satin finish and rounded out the brancards, distinguishing it even further from the graceful Française I am used to. I must admit the brushed finish will be less prone to scratches, which is a major selling point for me. But there’s one change to the bracelet that I don’t like: Cartier closed the gap between the outer links, adding even further to the sportier appearance of the new model that I feel strays too far from the charming Française aesthetic. 

2023 Cartier Tank Française Dial

Surprisingly, I don’t mind the new dial design.  The applied hour markers, compared to the previous painted hour markers, and recessed lines around the minute track are beautiful and modernize the Française in all the right ways.

However, I wish Cartier had kept the Roman numerals black for better legibility.  Furthermore, the dial appears smaller and squatter, which we can most likely chalk up to the newer proportions of the redesigned case. 

I wanted to love the new Cartier Tank, but I’m just not ready to let go of the allure of the old-school Cartier Française with its dressier, more jewelry-like design elements. Overall, the elegance of the older-model Française is lost. However, I am happy to see the brand show the collection some long-overdue love as they continue their campaign to refresh their pillar models. I also look forward to examining this watch in the metal to understand and maybe even gain a new appreciation for the recent upgrades.