The Best Breitling Watch
If you’ve stumbled upon this guide, you most likely identify with the countless other luxury watch collectors who appreciate Breitling’s innovation and often bold design and strive to add a watch from the famous Swiss watchmaker to your collection. Founded in the late 1800s, the brand’s eclectic portfolio can be hard to navigate when hunting for the best Breitling watch for your wrist. I’ve gathered a few of the most collection-worthy models from Breitling’s most popular flagship models to help your search.
Breitling: A Brief History
Breitling has been known for quality chronographs ever since Gaston Breitling created the world’s first two-button chronograph wristwatch in 1915. It’s hard to talk about Breitling without at least one mention of their most sought-after model, the Navitimer. Breitling developed the celebrated chronograph in 1954 as a tool watch for aviation, famously distinguished by a slide rule bezel. By rotating the bezel, the idea is that the wearer can perform in-flight calculations, such as fuel consumption and speed. It is still widely appreciated by die-hard collectors, despite the invention of modern calculators and handy smartphones, because of its unique and instantly-recognizable pilot’s watch aesthetic.
Building upon the popularity of the Navitimer, Breitling gradually expanded its collection to include several other chronographs, as well as dive watches, dress watches and GMT models. Countless examples are available on the grey market, so which one deserves the title “the best?” The answer to that is subjective, but below are two frontrunners. Then we’ll show you some great Breitlings from the rest of their catalog.
Breitling Navitimer ref. A23322
The discontinued Breitling ref. A23322 was an immensely successful iteration of the beloved Navitimer. It is still highly regarded among many avid collectors for its desirable 42mm case, subtle modern refinements, and sub-dials on the bottom half of the dial. It is the Navitimer in one of its most iconic forms. Breitling produced this iteration of the Navitimer from 2002 – 2010, after which it was replaced by ref. 24322 with a much more robust 46mm case and a vertical sub-dial configuration on the left side of the dial. It runs on the Breitling Caliber 24 self-winding movement based on the ETA 7753, complete with a date mechanism tucked in between 4 and 5 o’clock.
Breitling produced many variations of this model, including several dial colors with either baton-style or Arabic numeral hour markers. If 42mm falls within the sweet spot for your wrist, ref. A23322 is certainly worth considering.
Breitling Navitimer Specs
| Model | Navitimer | |
| Reference | A23322 | |
| Case Size | 42mm | |
| Case Thickness | 14.6mm | |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel | |
| Movement | Caliber 24, based on ETA 7753 | |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, GMT, Chronograph (seconds, minutes, hours) | |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel, Leather | |
| Last MSRP (2010) | $7,480 | |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$3,750 |
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph ref. AB0137211C1A1
That brings us to 2022 and the latest addition to the Navitimer collection, officially labeled the “Navitimer B01 Chronograph.” This coveted chronograph is produced in a vast array of configurations, including classic dial colors such as blue, black, and silver; stainless steel or precious metal finishes; and even 41mm, 43mm, or 46mm case sizes. Finding a model that speaks to your style within the lineup isn’t difficult.
Ref. AB0137211C1A1 is one of the largest modern Navitimer models, measuring 46mm in diameter. However, what’s most interesting about this watch is the subtle refinements to the dial and case. Breitling scrapped the Tachymeter scale, which might not seem like the best upgrade if you’re a purist but creates a cleaner, more legible look, nonetheless. Additionally, Breitling has incorporated its famous in-house caliber B01 movement while noticeably thinning out the case by about 1.5mm. These subtle refinements make the already-established masterpiece a must-have.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Specs
| Model | Navitimer B01 Chronograph |
| Reference | AB0137211C1A1 |
| Case Size | 40mm |
| Case Thickness | 13.9mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Movement | Caliber B01 |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph (seconds, minutes, hours) |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel |
| MSRP (2023) | $9,800 |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$8,000 |
Back to Basics:
History of Breitling
What is a Chronograph Watch?
What is a GMT Watch?
What is a Dive Watch?
Breitling Chronomat GMT 40
Before there was the widely successful Navitimer, there was the Breitling Chronomat, the first wristwatch to pair a circular slide rule with a chronograph movement. The collection initially debuted in the 1940s. However, the Chronomat as we know it today began to take shape during its relaunch in 1984, which Breitling claims sparked a mechanical revolution during the height of the quartz watch craze. It has been a pillar of the Breitling portfolio ever since, primarily distinguished by an onion-shaped crown, easy-to-grip rider tab bezel, and (on some models) the famous Rouleaux bracelet.
Breitling revamped the series, yet again, just a few years ago to give it a fresher, more refined aesthetic. The Chronomat GMT 40 is a product of that campaign, occupying a sweet spot in the brand’s current production lineup between the 42mm and 36mm offerings. It also introduced a new complication to the modern Chronomat collection, a GMT function, complete with a dedicated arrow hand and a 24-hour track circling the dial. Notably, it leaves out the collection’s signature chronograph complication and features a less chunky rider tab bezel. Of course, the Chronomat also sports the iconic Rouleaux-style bracelet with rounded links (with the option for leather) and a conical crown. With its new case size, nicely modernized design set, and dual-time capabilities, this Breitling deserves a spot in any watch box.
As of the writing of this article, the new Chronomat GMT 40 features five classic dial color options: white, black, blue, green, and grey. The case boasts water resistance up to 200 meters and has a relatively svelte profile of just over 11mm. The Breitling caliber 32 self-winding mechanical movement is tucked inside the case, featuring a 2nd time zone and a convenient 42-hour power reserve.
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Breitling Chronomat GMT 40 Specs
| Model | Chronomat 40 |
| Reference | A32398101A1A1 (white dial), A32398101C1A1 (blue dial), A32398101B1A1 (black dial), A32398101L1A1 (green dial), A32398101M1A1 (grey dial) |
| Case Size | 40mm |
| Case Thickness | 11.7mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Movement | Caliber B32 |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, GMT |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel |
| MSRP (2023) | $5,950 |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$5,000 |
Breitling Superocean Automatic
With the Chronomat and Navitimer under its belt, Breitling focused on the sea, and an ever-growing industry for functional dive watches with the Superocean in 1957. The first models (a time-only model and a chronograph model) offered water resistance up to 200 meters/660 feet, a depth rating that has since improved to the modern standard of up to 300 meters/1,000 feet and even more on some models. In the 1960s, the company sought to improve the functionality of the chronograph by incorporating a “slow motion” feature into the movement that allows the chronograph hand to make one complete rotation around the dial once every hour, essentially making it easier for divers to track elapsed time.
That backstory is important for the next Breitling model on this list because it is modeled after the original “Slow Motion” Superocean, complete with a similar time-only dial, easy-to-read minute track, and a polarizing box-tipped minute hand. While it doesn’t utilize a chronograph movement, this slow-motion-inspired design is just as efficient in tracking diving times. It even comes with a fresh collection of design set options that speak to the modern collector. Its unique design set connected to the brand’s past is already winning over devoted Breitling collectors. And the best part? It’s available in several case sizes, including 36mm, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm.
Breitling Superocean Automatic Specs
| Model | Superocean Automatic |
| Reference | 36mm: A17377211O1S1, A17377211A1S1, A17377211C1A1 42mm: A17375211I1S1, A17375E71C1S1, A17375211B1S1, A17375E71G1A1, N17375201L1S1, A173751A1O1S1, U17375211B1S1 44mm: A17376211C1S1, A17376211L2S1, A17376A31L1S1, A17376211B1A1, N17376201Q1S1 46mm: A17378211B1S1, A17378E71C1S1, M173681A1L1S1 |
| Case Size | 36mm, 42mm, 44mm, 46mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.2mm – 13.2mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel, Two-Tone, Bronze |
| Movement | Caliber B17 |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel, Rubber |
| MSRP (2023) | $4,950 – $7,100 |
| Market Price (2023) | $3,500-$5,500 |
Breitling Superocean Heritage ref. UB0162
Who doesn’t love a nicely executed heritage watch? The Superocean Heritage, released in 2007, pays homage to the original 1957 model. The bezel embraces a very minimal design featuring hash marks instead of numerals for the diver’s scale, and the dial is decorated with older-style arrow hands like the early 1950s Superocean models. The inspiration is clearly there. At the same time, the Superocean Heritage is undeniably modern, featuring more lustrous ceramic on the bezel, longer-lasting lume, and modern movements.
Ref. UB0162 is a stainless steel and red gold edition of the series limited to just 200 watches. It embraces the popular neo-vintage trend wholeheartedly with the previously-mentioned understated bezel and broad-arrow hour hand, combined with newer design elements such as the COSC-rated caliber B01 movement, cambered sapphire crystal, and a sporty rubber strap with a mesh-style pattern. If you appreciate the look of a two-tone watch with a unique history, this Breitling will likely appeal to you.
Breitling Superocean Heritage specs
| Model | Superocean Heritage |
| Reference | UB0162 |
| Case Size | 44mm |
| Case Thickness | 15.5mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel & 18k Red Gold |
| Movement | Caliber B01 |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph (seconds, minutes, hours) |
| Bracelet/Strap | Rubber |
| MSRP (2023) | $9,950 |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$6,850 |
Breitling Avenger Automatic 43
The modern Avenger collection is a product of the recent relaunch of the series, spearheaded by CEO Georges Kern, who joined the Breitling team in 2017 and has been on a mission to reimagine many of the brand’s most iconic models ever since. The collection has always been an aviator’s watch at heart, even featuring a rider-tab bezel like the established Chronomat, as well as countless features for the adventurous at heart, such as GMTs, chronographs, and even substantial water resistance.
One of the most sought-after new releases is the Breitling Avenger Automatic 43 in stainless steel. With its in-house caliber 17 time-and-date movement and cleaner dial, it’s a somewhat “toned down” edition of the notoriously robust watch and a front-runner for the best Breitling watch for investment. Are you taking your Breitling diving? No problem. The Avenger Automatic is also prepared for nautical adventures with a 300-meter depth rating and a uni-directional bezel. Breitling currently produces this model with a blue, black, white, or military green dial.
Breitling Avenger Automatic 43 Specs
| Model | Avenger Automatic |
| Reference | A17318 |
| Case Size | 43mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.2mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Movement | Caliber B17 |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel |
| MSRP (2023) | $4,200 |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$3,000 |
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 ref. AB0118221G1P1
The Breitling Premier was born during an era of incredible innovation by the brand in the early 1940s. They had just developed the Chronomat and were a few years away from releasing the iconic Navitimer. The collection aimed to offer customers the same remarkable functionality of the brand’s growing catalog but with a more refined and fashion-conscious design set. The result is a watch that falls between a sport and a dress model. The Premier will likely speak to your style if you find the rest of the brand’s offerings too polarizing.
Ref. AB0118221G1P1 is a classically elegant edition of the buttoned-up Premier, complete with a versatile stainless steel finish, silvery “Panda” dial decorated with contrasting black sub-dials, and the collection’s trademark sleek chronograph pushers. It calls on the style of vintage Premier models with its charming twin chronograph registers while offering a modern 42mm case and sapphire crystal. This model was an instant hit when Breitling released it near the tail end of 2018 alongside blue and green dial variants, and it has been a fan-favorite in many watch-collecting circles since.
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Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Specs
| Model | Premier B01 Chronograph |
| Reference | AB0118221G1P1 |
| Case Size | 42mm |
| Case Thickness | 13.6mm |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Movement | Caliber B01 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph (minutes, seconds) |
| Bracelet/Strap | Leather Strap |
| MSRP (2023) | $8,200 |
| Market Price (2023) | ~$6,000 |
The models featured in this guide are only the tip of the horological iceberg and don’t include other notable Breitling models, such as the bold Avenger Seawolf, sophisticated Top Time, or the Endurance Pro, to name a few. Still, it’s a well-rounded list to guide you in building a valuable Breitling collection.
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