Diamond Rolex Watches

History and Evolution of Diamond Rolex Watches

Rolex has been putting diamonds on its watches for almost as long as it has been in business. There are plenty of vintage diamond-set Rolex cocktail watches in the market that illustrate that point. By the mid-20th Century, Rolex began offering classic watches like the Datejust and Day-Date President with diamond embellishments, and precious gems on select sports watches like the Daytona, GMT-Master, Submariner, and Yacht-Master eventually joined the line-up.

Today, Rolex has an entire department dedicated to sourcing and setting precious stones. Rolex utilizes only natural precious stones, including diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, to decorate its watches. Each gemstone undergoes a thorough examination by the in-house gemmology laboratory, ensuring strict compliance with the brand’s defined specifications.

Rolex adheres to the guidelines established by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), and Rolex only selects the finest diamonds available. In short, not only are Rolex diamonds Internally Flawless (IF) but they’re also among the most colorless available.

For its diamond watches, Rolex uses brilliant cut, 8/8 cut, baguette cut, trapeze cut, asymmetric, and triangular stones. Furthermore, the master gem-setters at Rolex use a variety of setting techniques including bead setting, channel setting, bezel setting, and prong or claw setting.

What is a Rolex Serti Dial?

When talking about diamond Rolex watches, you’ll often come across the term Serti Dials to describe gem-set dials. Serti is short for the French word “sertissage,” which means gem-setting. Technically all Rolex dials with precious gems could be called a Serti dial, however, it’s most commonly used in watch collecting circles to refer to neo-vintage Rolex sports models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Yacht-Master with diamond, ruby, emerald, or sapphire hour markers.

Learn more:
A Complete Guide to Every Special Rolex Dial Ever Produced
A Primer on Watch Hour Markers

Rolex Diamond Watch Models and Reference Numbers

If a Rolex watch is available with the choice of a gem-set bezel, the gem-set bezel version will have a different reference number than the non-gem-set bezel version. On the other hand, a Rolex watch with a diamond dial does not necessarily have a different reference number than a non-diamond dial version.

Some gem-set Rolex watches will have a series of letters in their reference numbers that denote what type of precious gems it has. Here’s an explanation of what those letters stand for.

Rolex Gem-Set Reference Number Letter Abbreviations

• TBR = Trapeze-cut diamonds
• RBR = Round-cut diamonds
• TEM = Trapeze-cut emeralds
• TRU = Trapeze-cut rubies
• EMBR = Emeralds and diamonds
• EMSA = Emeralds and sapphires
• SABR = Sapphires and diamonds
• SARU = Sapphires and rubies
• SANR – Black sapphires
• SAFUBL = Fucshia and blue sapphires
• SAJOR = Yellow and orange sapphires
• SABLV – Blue and green sapphires
• SACO = Cognac-colored sapphires
• RBOW = Rainbow-colored sapphires
• SATS = Sapphires and tsavorites

Diamond Day-Date Watches

The Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956, is recognized as Rolex’s most esteemed dress watch. True to its name, this timepiece is recognized for its duo of calendar windows on the dial, indicating both the day of the week and the date of the month.

Accompanying the Day-Date’s debut was the creation of a new bracelet by Rolex, known as the President. This iconic bracelet’s name is partly responsible for the often-used Rolex President and Rolex Presidential nicknames. Moreover, the watch also earned its “President” nickname due to its frequent appearance on the wrists of history’s most influential individuals, including various American presidents.

The Day-Date collection offers plenty of variations with diamond-set bezels, as well as diamond dials and in some cases, diamond-set bracelets. While the Day-Date 36 is certainly unisex, both Day-Date sizes are popular choices as men’s Rolex diamond models. Note that Rolex diamond bezels most often have round diamonds, but trapeze-cut diamonds are offered on a couple models. The reference numbers of current production diamond Day-Date watches are as follows.

Rolex Diamond Day-Date References

Diamond Datejust Watches

The Datejust is Rolex’s flagship watch model and is often regarded as the most emblematic of the brand. The Datejust combines a water-resistant Oyster case, a Perpetual automatic movement, and a date window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial.

Rolex released the Datejust in 1945 to celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary and paired it with a new bracelet called the Jubilee. In 1957, the Lady-Datejust model joined the lineup as a smaller version made specifically for women. Early in the Datejust’s history, Rolex added a bubble-like magnification lens over the date window called the Cyclops.

Most Rolex Datejust watches come with the option of a diamond dial and some even offer the choice of a diamond-set bezel. It’s important to note that Rolex does not currently offer the Datejust 41 with a diamond bezel. The reference numbers of current production diamond Datejust watches are as follows.

Rolex Diamond Datejust References

Diamond Pearlmaster Watches

Now discontinued, the Pearlmaster was Rolex’s line of jewelry watches for women, introduced in 1992. Exclusively fashioned in precious metals like 18k yellow, white and Everose gold or 950 platinum, Rolex Pearlmaster watches almost always feature diamonds. Diamond embellishments can range from a dozen gems set into the bezel to entirely diamond-paved Pearlmaster models.

The watch takes its name from the Pearlmaster bracelet, which is a five-piece bracelet with curvy links that was designed especially for this collection. While the dials of the watches include the “DATEJUST” name (since there’s a date window at 3 o’clock) they are categorized as Pearlmaster watches because of their special bracelets.

Pearlmaster watches were originally available with 29mm or 34mm cases, however, in 2015, Rolex discontinued the smallest version and offered a larger 39mm option. Thanks to precious metal cases and bracelets combined with diamond settings, Pearlmaster models were some of the most expensive Rolex watches in the brand’s lineup. Below is a selection of Rolex diamond Pearlmaster references, all of which have now been discontinued.

Rolex Diamond Pearlmaster References

Off-Catalog Rolex Diamond Watch Models

In addition to its regular production watches, Rolex also makes lavish gem-set watches (often sports watch models like the Daytona, GMT-Master, Submariner, and Yacht-Master) that belong to a so-called secret catalog. These off-catalog Rolex watches embellished with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires are highly exclusive, ultra-rare, and exceedingly expensive — all of which make them super collectible too. Produced in very low numbers, only the most important Rolex clients are given the opportunity to purchase these special or secret-release gem-set Rolex watches.

Below is a selection of off-catalog Rolex watch references, including current and discontinued models.

Off-Catalog Rolex References with Diamonds and Other Precious Gemstones

Grey Market Diamond Rolex Watches

Due to the rarity and high price of many gem-set diamond Rolex watches, the grey market is often the only viable way to source them, especially off-catalog pieces. That’s one of the main benefits of shopping from a grey market dealer — the accessibility of hard-to-find or discontinued references.

Furthermore, you can sometimes find diamond Rolexes at better prices on the secondary market. Not always, as some variants are highly collectible, therefore, exceedingly expensive, but there are still a few deals to be made with gem-set models.

Factory Rolex Diamond Watches vs. Aftermarket

One thing to note when shopping for a gem-set Rolex is whether it is a factory watch or an aftermarket one. Factory diamond Rolex watches are exactly what it sounds like — watches that have all the same components as they did when they left the Rolex factory. All original parts, that are genuine to the reference.

On the other hand, aftermarket gem-set Rolex watches are customized with stones and are much less valuable than factory ones. In fact, adding stones to Rolex watches will almost always decrease the value of the watch. This is why it’s imperative to purchase a diamond Rolex from a source you trust so as not to get tricked into buying a custom piece when you think you’re buying an original.

Learn more: How To Spot A Fake Rolex: The Ultimate Guide

Notable Owners of Diamond Rolex Watches

Some of the world’s most famous celebrity watch collectors, such as Mark Wahlberg, Maluma, John Mayer, Cristiano Ronaldo, Neymar Jr, Drake, LeBron James, and others are often seen wearing ultra-rare diamond Rolex watches.

Commonly Asked Questions

Does Rolex Sell Watches with Diamonds?

Yes, Rolex does sell plenty of watches with diamonds. You can find Rolex watches with diamonds on the dial, bezel, case, bracelet, or all of the above. Aside from diamonds, Rolex also sells other precious gem-set watches including ones with rubies, sapphires, and emeralds.

Are Diamonds on Rolex Real?

Yes, a genuine gem-set Rolex watch only includes real diamonds on it. In fact, Rolex has an entire department dedicated to sourcing the best diamonds for its watches. The company only uses Internally Flawless (IF) colorless diamonds on its watches.

How Much is a Presidential Diamond Rolex?

A Presidential Diamond Rolex watch starts at around $38,000 for a Day-Date 36 with a diamond dial and $43,000 for a Day-Date 40 with a diamond dial. A Rolex President with a diamond bezel will cost more, starting at $49,800 for a Day-Date 36 with a diamond bezel and $55,700 for a Day-Date 40 with a diamond bezel. However, you can find pre-owned Presidential diamond Rolex watches for much less on the secondary market, starting at around $17,000.

Learn More: How Much Does a Rolex Day-Date Cost?

Do Men Wear Rolex Watches with Diamonds?

Plenty of men wear Rolex watches with diamonds. Diamond Rolex watches for men are becoming increasingly popular in today’s market and are some of the most collectible Rolex watches ever made. Rolex produces a secret catalog of gem-set men’s watches, which includes sports models such as the GMT-Master, Daytona, Submariner, and other men’s models.