What is Rolesium? A Look at Rolex’s Word for “Steel Next to Platinum”
Rolesium Rolex models are stainless steel watches with platinum bezels. That’s it. There is no special alloy involved, just a .950 platinum bezel on top of a stainless steel (I’m sorry, I mean “Oystersteel”) watch. In the 1930s, though, Rolex was using the term “Rolésium Inaltérable” as a name for a proprietary blend of stainless steel. Platinum bezels had nothing to do with it. But Rolex revived the “Rolesium” trademark in 1999, and ever since then, every Rolesium Rolex has been a Yacht-Master with a stainless steel bracelet and case, topped by a bidirectional rotating platinum bezel. In this article we’ll quickly go over all six Rolesium Yacht-Master references made so far, and talk a bit more about the old usage of the term, too.
Rolesium Yacht-Master History
When the Yacht-Master debuted in 1992, it was intended to be a “luxury” version of the Rolex Submariner, and it sold well at the time. Three sizes were offered: 29mm (Lady Yacht-Master), 35mm (midsize) and 40mm. The Yacht-Master was only available in solid 18k yellow gold at first, and two-tone versions appeared in 1996. 1999 was the year that the first Rolesium Yacht-Masters appeared, with their sparkly and attractive platinum dials. There was no other dial option.
In 2012, the 40mm Yacht-Master was updated. Ref. 116622 replaced the outgoing 16622, gaining the beloved Easy-Link clasp and a blue dial option. Blue Chromalight lume replaced the old green Super-LumiNova lume. Also, the platinum dials got just a bit less “sparkly.”
In 2015, the platinum dials were replaced by slate (also known as “dark rhodium”) dials. That same year, the 37mm size replaced both the 29mm and 35mm versions. The Rolesium Rolex lineup has been simple ever since: two sizes and two dial options. 37mm or 40mm, blue or slate. The only other change to the Rolesium Yacht-Master lineup since 2015 was in 2019, when the 40mm version got an updated movement (ref. 126622 replaced 116622). Let’s quickly break down all the Rolesium Rolex references and their market values now.
Rolesium Yacht Master Price by Model
| Size | Reference | Production Years | Dial Color | Market Price (June 2024) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 40mm | 126622 | 2019 – Present | Blue or Slate | $13,400 |
| 40mm | 116622 | 2012 – 2019 | Platinum, Blue or Slate | $11,900 |
| 40mm | 16622 | 1999 – 2012 | Platinum | $8,500 |
| 37mm | 268622 | 2015 – Present | Blue or Slate | $11,800 |
| 35mm | 168622 | 1999-2015 | Platinum | $6,900 |
| 29mm | 169622 | 1999- 2015 | Platinum | $5,650 |
Is “Slate” the Same Thing as “Dark Rhodium?”
Yes, Rolex used to call some dials “dark rhodium” that they now call “slate.” They’re the same dials. The 2021 name change was probably due to the fact that the price of rhodium had absolutely skyrocketed, and Rolex didn’t want to mislead people about there being rhodium in the dials (there isn’t, and never was).
More on Rolex:
The Rolex v. Beckertime Lawsuit: Implications for the Secondhand Watch Industry
A Collector’s Guide to the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
Rolex Milgauss Collector’s Guide
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
Is the Whole Bezel Platinum? Or Just the Insert?
The entire bezel assembly is platinum on a Rolesium Yacht-Master, not just the insert.
Rolésium Inaltérable
Rolex first filed a trademark for Rolesium in 1932. Or, more accurately, “Rolésium Inaltérable.” It seems to have been an early proprietary stainless steel alloy that Rolex advertised as having “the appearance of platinum.” Rolex Prince models were offered in Rolesium in the 1930’s, and some Oyster models were offered in the metal as well. Looking at the Rolesium Oyster Royal sold by Vintage View below, the metal does seem to (maybe?) appear slightly bluer and more platinum-like than typical steel.
In some 1930s catalogs, “Rolesium Metal” is listed separately from stainless steel, but priced identically. I have also seen later catalogs where Rolesium is priced slightly higher than standard stainless steel, but it was never priced anywhere near the gold versions.
It’s very unlikely there is any significant amount of precious metal in Rolésium Inaltérable, because there are no assay marks to denote purity (although the United States, interestingly, has never had an assay mark requirement). What you will likely see inside a Rolésium Inaltérable caseback, however, is a key logo with “10” written on it. And you’ll likely see a star on the outside of the caseback, too.
That “10” key means the case was made by Robert Meylan, a prominent Genevan case maker that operated from 1928-1939 and often supplied Rolex. Rolex actually bought one of their patents for waterproof watch cases in 1940 after they had gone out of business. Rolex’s Rolesium trademark expired in 1952 but they may have stopped using it when Robert Meylan closed down.
The Future of Rolesium?
There haven’t been any changes to the Rolex Rolesium lineup since 2019s. It will be interesting to see if Rolex expands their use of Rolesium or keeps it relegated to the Yacht-Master 37 and 40. Maybe the Lady Yacht-Master will make a comeback in a more modern 32mm size? In any case, I doubt the name “Rolesium” is doing Rolex any favors–it has probably drummed up more confusion than intrigue. But the watches look nice, and that’s what matters.
More on Watch Materials:
What is Rolesor? And Why Doesn’t Rolex Just Say “Two-Tone?”
An Introduction to Common Materials Used in Watchmaking
904L vs 316L: Comparing Stainless Steels Used in Watchmaking
Top 10 Platinum Watches
Everose Gold Rolex Guide
