On today’s Under the Loupe, I’m talking about the ultimate watch collection under $25K that’s customized for your style. Whether you’re looking for a minimalist or dressy collection, a tool watch collection, or if you have big wrists, I’ve got you covered!
These are my five favorite collections that can be had for under $25,000. So let’s get right into it.
The Minimalist Watch Collection
The first collection is for the watch minimalist. It’s the one who doesn’t necessarily want to have that many watches in his collection, just wants really simple, wind, set, and wear type of watches. And so for me, I would recommend a two-watch collection.
Rolex submariner 14060m
The first one is the Submariner 14060m, particularly the two-liner notate sub. And that is a watch that is kind of the ultimate iteration of what a no date subs should be.
It’s super simple, super uncluttered on the dial, and overall it is the perfect watch for that minimalist watch collector. It’s a watch that could be had in and around that $12,000 price point, and I think that particularly the Swiss-only dial examples are ones to look out for in the future that are really going to start climbing in price as collectors get to know and appreciate this design more and more.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix
The second watch in this collection would be the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix. And this is a watch that was released by Vacheron that targeted kind of a younger collector because especially of that accessible price point and given the fact that it’s in steel, and overall, I think you get quite a good watch.
Certainly it isn’t the best watch that they make. It doesn’t have a Geneva seal. It does use an off-the-shelf movement, technically a Cartier movement. However, I think overall it is quite a respectable watch that is extremely well finished still by the standards of Vacheron Constantin, and I think it’s the perfect watch for a minimalist.
Again, super legible, just time only with a small date, that’s actually quite discreet and blends in very well, and overall, I think it makes that perfect dress watch diver kind of combo that really makes for a great collection under $25,000.
Now you can get the Fiftysix both in the blue dial and the silver dial. However, for the purpose of this collection, I do go with the silver dial. First and foremost, because it’s a little less expensive at about $13,000 on the secondary market. So it does fit under that $25,000 budget, but also because the silver dial, in my opinion, is slightly more versatile in that you can wear dressed up, or dressed down, whereas the blue lends itself to be more of a casual wearer.
The Dressy Collection
The next collection is for that dress focus collector and that’s somebody who typically wears a suit on a daily basis. This collection really has a theme of having watches that are quite versatile, but definitely lean dressier overall.
JLC Reverso, the Tribute to 1931
The first watch would be the JLC Reverso, the Tribute to 1931, which is probably my favorite Reverso ever made.
I just love that railroad minute track with the sword hands and that really nice inky black dial. It’s a kind of single-sided Reverso that you can flip over and maybe potentially get the case back engraved.
Overall, I just love the fact that it’s super slim in its profile, and it is a tribute to that original Reverso, made for the American market. An interesting thing about this watch is it doesn’t actually have the JLC branding. And this was particular for American-made Reverso’s that only had the word Reverso on the dial itself.
Cartier Santos Dumont XL
Next is the Cartier Santos Dumont XL. I think this is a watch that again is very versatile yet sporty and can be worn dressed up or dressed down, but definitely leans itself a lot more dressy overall.
The Santos Dumont was that original wristwatch, the one that was created in 1904 for Alberto Santos Dumont to be worn in flight by him. So it was the first men’s pilot watch, the first wristwatch, as well as the first sports watch. In 1911, when they actually made this watch in serial production for the general public and watch buying public, it was technically the first ever serially produced watch ever made.
At about $6,000, I think it actually represents quite a good bargain overall, considering you get a very historic design and a watch that really can be worn in any situation and it’s never out of place and will frankly never go out of style.
Omega Seamaster
So even in a dress focus collection, you do need that utilitarian watch. That watch you get things done with, and to me, one of the best values on the market today is the Omega Seamaster. I particularly like their new Heritage edition Seamaster and particularly the blue dial version. It comes in a really nice 41-millimeter case with a sandwich style dial and overall the aesthetic leans itself definitely a little bit dressier, yet it’s still sporty and versatile enough to get things done with.
You get a display case back a really nice adjustment in the clasp. The clasp itself is a milled-out clasp so you don’t get that kind of really big and bulky clasp that you see in the Seamaster 300.
At about $6,500 I think the Seamaster Heritage 300 represents a really great bargain because it’s very sleek and can ultimately be worn in any situation. Overall I think it’s a great bargain and frankly, a perfect watch for this collection that is really dress-focused.
Longines Heritage Chronograph
So to add a little bit of functionality to this collection, I wanted to add a chronograph and one of the best dressier type chronographs was actually done by Longines, it’s the Longines Heritage Chronograph, particularly with that tuxedo dial.
At about $2,500 you get a two-registered chronograph with a column wheel actuation so that it’s going to be quite a smooth operation. I love that kind of vintage-inspired design because this watch is inspired by a vintage Longines.
Now the watch itself with that tuxedo dial really lends itself a little bit dressy, but it definitely can be worn a lot more casually overall. I think it’s a perfect cap off to this collection in that you add a little bit of functionality at a great price, and frankly in a design that is super versatile and fits this collection really well.
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Tool Watch Collection
This is for the type of collector who is looking for purpose-built watches that really you can throw anything at and they will stand up to the test. There are really a number of watches that fit this category, but I think there are four main watches that you can pick from that really suit this niche very well.
Tudor Black Bay 58
The first is the Tudor Black Bay 58. This is a watch that was inspired by a vintage Tudor Submariner released in 1958 by Tudor. It has that really nice heritage-inspired look, yet it does have a kind of purpose behind it in that it’s 200 meters water resistant and frankly can stand up to the shocks of everyday life.
With Tudor, you’re getting quite a reliable movement, and at about that $4,000 or so price point for a Tudor Black Bay 58, I like it particularly in the black version because it is slightly a nicer aesthetic overall, in my opinion. I think you’re getting a great watch that is definitely perfect for a tool watch collection.
Rolex Explorer II 16570
The next watch is the Rolex Explorer II. I chose to reference 16570 firstly because of its size. I really like that 40 millimeter size.
I particularly like the polar dial of this reference, and the third reason is because of the fact that those Neo vintage watches are very easy to take that bracelet off versus modern ones. This adds to the utility of the piece in that you can change it out for a leather or rubber strap.
At about that $12,000 price point I think this really represents a great bargain on the secondary market in a design and a format that I think is a lot more wearable and practical for everyday use than the modern ones and 42 millimeters that are slightly bulkier as well.
IWC Mark XVIII Le Petit Prince
Now let’s go to the brand that makes the best pilot watches on the market today, and that is IWC. For this collection, I chose the IWC Mark XVIII Le Petit Prince, particularly in the blue dial, just to add a little bit of depth and color to the collection overall.
I think this is a really purpose-built watch in that it’s a great field watch, very legible, very easy to use, and has a great date window so it’s functional and perfect for everyday use. Frankly, the legibility really allows itself to be quite a great tool watch overall.
At about that $4,000 price point I think you get a lot of value from IWC, especially considering its history and heritage, and the fact that it’s one of the very best and most underrated watch brands in the world today.
Omega Speedmaster Hesalite
And lastly, how could I not mention one of the greatest tool watches of all time? And that is the watch that went to space. The Omega Speedmaster. I would particularly get the Hesalite version, again because it is a tool watch and that is the version that went to space.
At about that $6,000 or so price point, depending obviously if you get the 1861 version or the brand new 3861 version, I still think it represents a great value overall and an excellent choice if you want to really look for that first luxury watch purchase. It’s not just an icon, but it is overall a great tool watch that I think is a great cap to this collection.
Bigger Wrist Watch Collection
The next collection is for that watch collector that ultimately struggles to find those watches that fit his wrist properly because he has naturally larger wrists than most collectors.
Omega Speedmaster Racing
The first watch in this collection is the Omega Speedmaster Racing. I absolutely love these watches they’re way too big for my wrist personally at 44.25 millimeters, but I think they represent a fantastic bargain overall.
They have their two registered chronograph format, which is my personal favorite, with a display case back, column mill chronograph, co-axial movement, and automatic, there are so many things that you can go on and on about this watch. I like in particular the white dial, it’s like a white frosted dial that lends itself as a great alternative to the Rolex Pan Am Daytona.
At about that $7,000 price point, I think it’s a ridiculous bargain considering what Daytonas sell for on the secondary market.
Cartier Santos
The next watch is the Cartier Santos. Not much needs to be said as I already mentioned earlier, and I think that the modern Cartier Santos really lends itself definitely to a bigger wrist in the large size in particular.
Now for this collection, I like the blue dial variant of the Santos because it adds a little bit of color and funk to this collection. Overall, I think it adds a sporty element that is still quite chic because you can take off that bracelet and put it on a leather strap, that versatility really lends itself well.
The Cartier Santos represents a great bargain at about that $8,000 to $10,000 price point, depending obviously on the condition and wear of the actual piece itself.
Portugieser 75th Anniversary
The last watch on this collection is one of my favorite watches ever made by IWC, and that is the Portugieser, but in a particular variant, that is the 75th Anniversary of the Portugieser.
I love that almost Explorer dial format, that really discrete date window. It has an eight-day power reserve, and manual winding with the power reserve indicator on the back.
I think at about $9,000, you get a ton of value in this piece, and frankly, it has an aesthetic that leans itself kind of more vintage, but with the modern build quality and proportions that I think really are the best watches sold on the market today. Not only does this watch represent a great value for its aesthetics, but also mechanically.
I think it’s a watch that is really suited for the watch collector who looks outside the box and doesn’t follow the hype. Overall, I think it’s a fantastic watch that I would put up against almost any brand, even entry-level Mosers for that matter because it’s super well finished and has a well-designed movement.
My Perfect Watch Collection Under $25,000
So you’ve heard about four different watch collections for different themes, but I’m going to give you my favorite watch collection under that $25,000 price point.
Rolex GMT Master II 16710
Now it may come as no surprise, but that first watch is my favorite from the crown, Rolex. That is the GMT Master II. The one I would particularly get is the reference 16710, because it is a little bit better value than modern Rolex GMT watches.
At about the $15,000 price point you can get a really nice Pepsi-style bezel that I think is fantastic and represents a lot of value for money considering you’re getting one of the most functional and iconic complications from Rolex.
Omega Speedmaster CK2915
Now, although I love the Speedmaster one problem with the modern Speedmasters is they do wear slightly bigger on my wrist, and so I look to the kind of 40 mil examples really as my inspiration. But the one I like in particular is the one that’s based on the original Speedmaster, the reference CK2915. Now Omega released a re-edition of that exact watch about five or six years ago if I’m not mistaken, and I think they really did a tasteful re-edition of that original watch.
Now, this is a watch that wasn’t originally intended as a moon watch, it was originally intended for the race tracks. The watch itself was really a racing chronograph, that original racing chronograph before the Daytona itself, and so this just adds in my opinion, to the history, the heritage, and the iconic status of the Speedmaster.
I really love that CK2915 re-edition because it adds great functionality to the collection, that vintage-inspired charm as well, and overall is just a super nice and very versatile watch.
At about that $8,000 to $10,000 price point I think this represents really a great bargain that is super functional and that plays well in this collection.
Tudor Black Bay 58
Lastly, is that utilitarian watch that I mentioned earlier, you need that watch to get things done with, and to me, one of the best watches to do that is the Tudor Black Bay 58.
Not only does it come at quite an accessible price point of about $3,700 to $4,000, but I really like the vintage-inspired design, especially of the black version with the red triangle at 12, the guild accents on the dial on the rose gold style hand.
I think it’s a design that’s quite faultless. You get a super bulletproof movement that’s 200-meter water resistant, and frankly not much else needs to be said because the Tudor Black Bay 58 is one of the most beloved watches on the market today for a reason. I think it represents a great bargain overall, and I think it caps off this collection really quite nicely.
So, guys, those are five of my favorite collections under that $25,000 price point. I would love to get your feedback on what collection you would build under this price point overall.